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A Primer on Thermal Imaging / Infrared Scans – Suggestions & Tips #160

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thermal imaging

Home owners & buyers are hearing more and more about thermal imaging or infrared scans, in particular when doing a home inspection. The use of these non-invasive thermographic cameras detects radiation which is emitted by all objects day or night, with or without visible illumination, and allows surface temperature variations to be captured on camera. It may reveal issues not visible to the naked eye as a result. For example, it can show warm bodies against cooler backgrounds, missing insulation or energy loss, electrical overheating, or spots where water is present and not expected. So here are some pros and cons of carrying out thermal imaging / infrared scans on a building:

Pros:

  • Non-invasive test method
  • Can find heated deteriorating components prior to failure e.g. electrical, heating
  • Good in inaccessible / hazardous areas compared with other methods
  • Can detect in dark areas

Cons:

  • Can be costly
  • Can yield false negative and false positives
  • Inaccurate temperature measurements
  • Temperatures measurements hindered by the surfaces being examined e.g. surfaces with condensation, dirt, mould
  • Only detects surface temperatures
  • Images can be difficult to interpret accurately
  • It is not an x-ray and cannot see through walls
  • It is site condition restrictive (weather / temperature conditions) e.g. difference in indoor / outdoor temperature, wind, no direct sunlight, no recent rain
  • Only detects moisture / wetness if object is in fact wet at the time of the scan

Should You Use Thermal Imaging / Infrared Scans During A Home Inspection?

It depends. Some inspection companies may lead you to believe that infrared scanning is included as part of the inspection…and it maybe, but likely not as a complete scan of the entire home, inside and out, and on each wall, ceiling and floor from both sides. To do this would likely take as long as the home inspection itself and likely double the cost of the home inspection. Inspectors may use it to spot check something, but then again its only doing just that. It also doesn’t work at all times of the year nor does it find leaks or moisture unless the surface is wet at that time.

As a result, we recommend that you carry out our standard home inspection and wait for the inspector to recommend that thermal imaging be carried out and to explain to you the pros and cons of going down that path. Do not be misled that thermal imaging is the be-all and end-all in every application, it simply isn’t. It has its place, and can be a valuable tool when and if used correctly.

Air Admittance Valve (AAV) – Suggestions & Tips #27

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air admittance valve (AAV)

An air admittance valve (AAV) is a one-way valve designed to allow air to enter your home’s drainage system when the pressure in the plumbing system is less than the atmospheric pressure. They are sometimes referred to as an “under-the-counter” vent or “cheater” vent as well. These vents are commonly installed on a drainpipe for a fixture in an accessible location that allows air to enter the AAV, as opposed to drains that are typically connected to the plumbing system of the home that provides a venting system that terminates above the roof line.

There are some precautions to installing these however. Only approved AAV’s that are installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions are permissible. Commonly they are used to vent fixtures:

  • located in island counter tops
  • fixtures that may be affected by frost closure of the vent due to local climatic conditions
  • fixtures in dwellings undergoing renovation or installations where connection to the home’s traditional plumbing ventilation system may not be practical.

AAV’s should be installed above the flood rim of the fixture it is venting and in any case, no less than 4” above the fixture’s drain. in the picture shown above, failure of the AAV may allow water into the home as it is installed below the fixture (in this case, below the main floor kitchen sink in the basement).

As there are restrictions to their use, its best to check with your local Municipality to inquire whether a permit is required for the work and whether or not an air admittance valve (AAV) is permissible in your application prior to the start of any work.

Air Conditioner Maintenance – Suggestions & Tips #72

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air conditioner maintenance

Air conditioner maintenance is likely more important than you might think. Just like your car, if left unattended is can cause problems.

The filter in your furnace is also the filter for your air conditioner. As that filter in your duct work gets dirty it traps more particles, but increases resistance and reduces airflow too. That’s when it’s time to change the filter with one recommend by the manufacturer. How often will depend on how dirty your indoor air is, the size of the filter, how often you clean, if you have hardwood or carpets, how many furry pets you have, etc.

Make sure you trim back any vegetation around the condenser unit on the outside of your home so it can efficiently expel the captured warm air from the home. If this unit is dirty, turn off the power supply to the unit and hose off any debris. Once allowed to dry, turn the power supply back on. Don;t block this unit or obstruct it otherwise the air conditioner will have to work longer causing higher energy costs and premature failure of the unit.

The fins on the evaporator and condenser coils can block airflow if they are dirty as well. If the fins are bent they can be straightened using a “fin comb”. Dirt and obstructions on the evaporator (“A” coil) and in the drain line should be checked & cleaned periodically too. Typically, work to the “A”coil is done by a licensed contractor as it is located above the furnace cabinet inside the duct work and not easily accessible.

The duct work in your house (and the home’s building envelope) should be sealed to maximize performance ensuring you have a properly insulated home and managed humidity levels.

When your air conditioner and filters are dirty, they cooling system will operate longer to cool the house. That not only increases your energy costs, but wears your unit out faster. As a general rule, air conditioner maintenance should be carried out at the start of each cooling season.

Read more about Air Conditioning Energy Saving & Maintenance Tips.

Air Conditioning Energy Saving & Maintenance Tips

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There are plenty of things you should be doing with your air conditioning system that can reduce costs for you. Here are some suggestions:

Energy Saving Tips

  1. Don’t locate your air conditioner in direct sunlight-particularly on the south side of your home where it will be forced to work much harder to do its job.
    Reduce your cooling costs by increasing the thermostat setting by a degree or two. Try setting you thermostat around 26OC. Use a programmable thermostat so you can adjust the temperature setting when you’re not at home.
  2. When you want to achieve rapid temperature change for comfort, don’t set the thermostat higher or lower than the desired temperature. That doesn’t cool or heat a home any faster-it just makes the system work longer and may ice up the compressor.
  3. The use of window air conditioners can be more cost effective than a central cooling system as you only cool down the areas required.
  4. Close off the kitchen, bath and other ventilating fans as soon as they’ve done their job. In just one hour, these exhaust fans can blow away a houseful of costly, cooled air.
  5. Keep doors and windows shut whenever cooling. If fresh outdoor air is required, turn off the air conditioning first or use an air exchanger system.
  6. Clean or replace the filter at least once a month. Use your electric bill be your regular reminder to clean or change the filter.
  7. Turn the power supply to the cooling system off during the winter. Remember to wait 24 hours after breaker is turned back on prior to next season’s start-up.
  8. Good insulation in your home can more than pay for itself in just a few years, in money saved on air-conditioning and heating operation.
  9. Dirty filters cause unnecessary strain and can lead to equipment breakdowns. Air-conditioning servicemen say about half of their trouble calls are traced to dirty filters. We suggest changing or cleaning your filters at least once a month, preferably every two weeks for best results.
  10. If your unit is 10 years old or more consider a new, properly sized, high efficiency system.
  11. Check your duct system for air leaks and for adequate insulation.
  12. Attic temperatures can soar in the summer so good attic ventilation will lower the temperature and reduce cooling requirements inside your home.
  13. Seal leaks around doors, windows, electrical receptacles & switches, roof and wall protrusions.
  14. You can save money by shading the glass with awnings, solar screens or shutters. Trees and shrubs that shade your home also help to reduce the air-conditioning workload. Venetian blinds or drapes are helpful as well.
  15. Close up your firebox area and fireplace damper during the summer (when not in use) to help prevent cool air from going up the chimney.
  16. If you have questions about your present system or how to improve it, seek further professional advice from, for example, an expert such as a qualified and licensed air conditioning contractor.

Maintenance Tips

  1. Regardless of the type or age of your equipment, it is a good idea to make sure that it is operating properly before and during use.
  2. Whether you have a window unit, central air unit, or a heat pump, you can do many of the maintenance tasks. These include cleaning coils, replacing filters, lubricating motors, and checking belts.
  3. Indoor unit coils should be cleaned periodically with a vacuum cleaner or brush. The outdoor coils should be kept free of grass, leaves, shrubbery and other obstructions.
  4. If your air conditioning equipment needs servicing, hire a professional. They can perform the more difficult tasks such as pressure testing, recharging with refrigerant, checking thermostats and sensors, and repairing or replacing electrical and mechanical components.
  5. Check your owner’s manuals for information about proper start-up and operation of their equipment. Also, make sure that registers and vents are not restricted or blocked by furniture, carpets, rugs or curtains.

Air Conditioning Types

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Generally, there are three types of central air conditioning — Air Cooled, Water Chilled, and Gas Chilled. These systems typically work with forced air furnaces. They work on the principle of absorbing heat from the air within the house and transferring it outside.

Independent systems, where forced air furnaces are not present, work the same idea as the others however they have their evaporator coil contained within their own ductwork. Consequently these stand-alone systems can be a costly endeavour.

Air Cooled — These are the most common of central air conditioning systems. Two basic components are used. An evaporator coil located within the furnace (above the heat exchanger) and a condenser coil located outside. Cold liquid refrigerant entering the evaporator removes heat from the warm house air passing over it. It then exits the house to the condenser (the heart of the system) where it is now a gas. The fan in the outdoor unit cools this gas where it then turns back to a liquid before re-entering the home to repeat the process. The action of cooling warm moist air causes condensation to form at the evaporator thereby acting as a dehumidifier as well. The overall result is a much cooler and dryer air.

Water Chilled — This system operates essentially the same as an air-cooled unit in that there is still an evaporator in the furnace and a condenser. The condenser, however, is usually located by the furnace inside the house. Here the gas formed by the evaporator is cooled back to a liquid by water from the plumbing system. As water from the house (typically) is used to cool it this warmed up water must also be able to exit the system. Often it goes down the drain. Although it is not potable it can be used for gardening, watering lawns, or, filling pools in certain circumstances.

Gas Chilled — This system is not very common anymore. Often when these units fail they are replaced with a more traditional unit. Although this system operates as the others mentioned above they are more complicated. It involves heating a liquid solution to form a gas. The gas then cools water, warmed by the house air.

Other Systems — Evaporative coolers (sometimes called swamp coolers) blow dry warm air through a water soaked pad. The result is humid, much cooler, air. This type of system only works in dryer climates such as the American Southwest.

Air Infiltration

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Your home can have over a kilometre of cracks in it! They are located anytime you have different building materials coming together. If it’s a new home under construction, there are a number of things you need to check:

New Homes:

  • Check around windows and doors
  • Use a good silicone caulk to seal cracks. Latex caulking can be painted.
  • Ensure that doors have weather stripping to make sure that it’s filling the gap at the bottom and around the rest of the door.
  • Check your fireplace to ensure the damper is closed when you’re not burning wood in it, so you don’t have a lot of heated or air-conditioned air going right up your chimney.
  • Check wall switches and outlets. You may need gaskets under the plates or even want to plug in plastic inserts that a lot of people use for child protection.
  • Check for cracks where different types of building materials come together.
  • Check protrusions of the building envelope surfaces e.g. walls, roof, ceilings, where ducts, pipes, chimneys are located. Homes with naturally drafted combustion appliances may allow air leakage from these holes to cause back drafting of the appliance.
  • Check the bottom of walls where they meet the floor, and the first floor / foundation wall joints at the sill plates.
  • Cracks larger than one-quarter inch should be filled first with something like foam insulation before caulking.

Air Infiltration Tests:

  • Blower Door Test — If you’ve checked the above and your house still feels like drafts are present or you have unusually high heating / cooling bills, consider having a blower door test done to check for excessive leaks.
  • Infrared Test — You can also have an infrared test done if you think your walls may be lacking insulation. It’s a great way to pinpoint leaks, but it is pretty expensive.

Is your Home Too Airtight?

  • Some homes are being built so airtight that getting enough fresh air in the home can become a concern.
  • If you have oil or wood burning heaters that draw air from inside the home to burn, making sure you have enough fresh air coming into the home is very important.
  • If you just get the feeling once in a while that a room is getting too stuffy, open a window for a few minutes once or twice a day.
  • All homes must have some minimum amount of air exchange in order provide oxygen for people and appliances, to control humidity, eliminate odours, etc. Although some homes experience problems due to insufficient air exchange, often homes leak more than necessary most of the time. Mechanical ventilation such as exhaust fans or heat recovery ventilators (HRV) are good method of controlling air exchange.
  • Older houses tend to leak the most air and it is not unusual for all the air in the home to be replaced every hour. One general rule of thumb is to have a minimum air exchange rate of about a third of the home’s per hour. Some very energy efficient houses are being built with leakage rates as low as 0.05 air changes per hour, using controlled mechanical ventilation to ensure the health and comfort of the occupant.

Benefits of Reducing Air Infiltration:

  • Reduce energy use.
  • Improve comfort, health, and building durability.
  • In winter, less cold, outdoor air would replace heated air, reducing drafts and cold areas.
  • In summer, more hot, humid air would be kept out of the house.
  • Pollen, dust, and possible radon entry can be reduced.
  • Reduced moisture levels in walls and attics decreases the chances of structural damage resulting
  • Possible downsizing of heating / cooling equipment when replaced.

Other Concerns With Tightening Up Your House:

  • Moisture is produced by a number of sources in the home including cooking, bathing, and, plants. When a home is tightened, the humidity almost always increases. Controlling all sources of moisture can be critical in a tight home to prevent condensation on windows, walls, etc.
  • Proper drafting of combustion appliances is critical for health and safety reasons. Drafting can be greatly affected by the tightness of your home. Tests can be performed to determine if back drafting occurs in your home.

Air Leaks in a House – Suggestions & Tips #59

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air leaks

One of the largest sources of energy loss in a home is caused by air leaks. These air leaks are no different than leaving the windows and doors in your house open.

Sealing your home against these leaks can not only save energy but improve comfort levels for its occupants. In winter, air leaks allow heat loss out of the home or the entry of cold air into the home, making your furnace work harder. The opposite is true in summer with your air conditioner.

Air leaks, amongst other things, can cause issues with humidity, condensation & indoor air quality. This of course is also true so for air tight homes that do not have adequate ventilation.

Before proceeding with any improvements, an evaluation should be made to determine how best air sealing & improved insulation levels might be a cost effective solution for you. While some of this work can be accomplished by the homeowner, others may require professionals.

If you are unsure about what might be transpiring in your home, or you are unsure as to what signs or symptoms you should look for, get it inspected.

Aluminum Wiring

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In the late 1960’s and early 1970’s copper prices rose and contractors/electricians switched from copper to lower costing aluminum wiring. Although no longer common for distribution circuits, aluminum wiring is still used today in certain applications. For example, 240 volt circuits for stoves and dryers. It sometimes is used on the main service entrance wire from the road to the house. These use multiple strands of wire.

Concerns that have arisen with aluminum wiring are with those that use a single solid strand of wire, for example, when connected to devices (e.g. receptacles, light fixtures) that were not designed for aluminum, or, where aluminum and copper wires are attached together. In these cases a reaction can occur causing the connections to fail, perhaps become disconnected, and/or, potentially overheat, spark and catch fire. Symptoms of this can sometimes be seen in the discolouration of receptacles, flickering lights, or the smell of hot plastic insulation.

The conductivity of aluminum is not as good as copper so a different, thicker, gauge wire must be used. For example, today the most common copper wire size is 14 gauge. The comparable aluminum wire size used was 12 gauge.

According to a 1997 Safety Notice from Ontario Hydro, it states that: “Aluminum wiring in residential installations will operate as safely as any other type of wiring if the proper materials are used and it is installed as per the manufacturer’s instructions and the Ontario Hydro Electrical Safety Code.”

Special care must be taken to ensure, for example, that connections are made to receptacles that are suitable for aluminum wiring. Further, where aluminum and copper wires are connected that proper paste/flux, and/or, the appropriate wire connectors, are used.

Regardless of the wiring type used, no circuits should be over loaded or over fused.

Suspect a problem?  — Have a qualified electrician check:

  1. Terminations at devices without removing or disturbing them.
  2. Cut back any damaged aluminum conductors and join these to a copper tail using a connector approved for use with aluminum. These connectors are coloured either brown or purple, depending on the manufacturer. The copper tail is then terminated at the terminal screws of an ordinary device (which includes approved receptacles, etc.). Or, cut back any damaged aluminium conductors and re-terminate at a new device bearing the appropriate marking. For example, devices bearing the mark CO/ALR are approved for use with aluminum wiring.
  3. Panel board terminations for signs of overheating.
  4. Fuses present for heavy loads are temperature sensitive type (D or P).

If a home has aluminum wiring and you suspect problems may exist further professional advice from a qualified electrician experienced in repairing aluminum-wiring concerns is recommended. We recommend that you also ascertain from your insurance broker that they will insure a building with aluminum wiring.

Aluminum Wiring – Suggestions & Tips #17

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Aluminum wiring is safe when properly installed, but insurance companies aren’t keen on it. In buildings there are two types of aluminum wiring we typically come across: solid strand (pictured left above) and multi-strand (pictured right above).

Multi-strand is used today in certain applications, such as, 220-volt circuits for stoves, dryers and air conditioners. It’s also used on the main service entrance wires from the street to the house. When we talk about concerns with aluminium wiring, they arise with solid-strand wiring. For example, when solid-strand wiring is connected to devices (e.g. receptacles, light fixtures) which were not designed for aluminum, or, when aluminum and copper wires are attached together.

All electrical devices are rated to be used with copper, aluminium or both. So, if you have aluminum wiring, special care must be taken to ensure that connections made to these devices are suitable for this type of wiring. Further, where aluminum and copper wires are connected, proper paste / flux and wire connectors should be used.

Be sure to inform your insurance broker that your home has aluminum wiring as some companies no longer provide insurance coverage on homes with this wiring. If they do provide coverage, they may request further inspections from, the Electrical Safety Authority (ESA) and / or a licensed electrician.

Read more about aluminum wiring and concerns with it here.

Arc Faults & Ground Faults – Suggestions & Tips #19

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arc_fault_ground_fault

Arc faults & ground faults are not the same!

You may already be familiar with a ground fault, that’s when electricity travels outside its intended path looking for the shortest route to the ground. If you are grounded (touching the ground or something resting on the ground, like a ladder) and you touch something that is energized your body becomes that shortest route to ground. You can also become part of the path to ground by touching water and electricity. Either way, you could be hurt or worse yet, die.

On the other hand, an arc fault is caused by damaged, overheated or electrical wiring / devices placed under too high a demand. They can also occur with older frayed / cracked wires or if a nail damages a wire in a wall. As homes are being transformed by the demands of new electrical devices, many existing homes are not equipped to handle this resulting in a greater risk of arc faults and arc-induced fires, a cause of a large percentage of home electrical fires and deaths.

You can increase protection from ground faults and arc faults by using Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI) and Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI). They do not perform the same function however…

  • GFI receptacle (pictured left above) protects people against severe or fatal electric shocks
  • AFCI (pictured right above) is a device that replaces the standard circuit breaker in your home’s electrical panel protects against fires caused by arcing faults.

Changes in the Canadian Electrical Code (CEC) made AFCI’s required on bedroom circuits in new home construction, and now the 2015 Canadian Electrical Code requires all branch circuits with 125 volt receptacles rated 20 amps or less to be protected (with exceptions). However, many existing homes lag behind in keeping up to date as there is no requirement to install them in older homes…but it makes sense to do so. The 2008 edition of the US National Electrical Code (NEC) had expanded requirements for AFCI installation to additional areas of the home, including dining rooms and family rooms.

AFCI’s should only be installed or replaced by a licensed, qualified electrician. They should be tested after installation and once each month to make sure they are working properly. Follow the device manufacturer’s testing instructions. If the device does not trip when tested, it should be replaced.

Asbestos

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Airborne asbestos inside a building may be 10 to 100 times higher than outside. These indoor levels are typically 10,000 to 100,000 times lower than levels found in asbestos industry workplaces. Various cancers and lung diseases have been associated with asbestos.

How can Asbestos affect you? Perhaps the most typical problem associated with asbestos comes from airborne particles that are inhaled. When intact it is usually not a problem however when it is breaking down, deteriorating, damaged or disturbed it can become airborne. If this occurs it may require removal or sealing. Unfortunately with some older pipes, such as galvanized piping, they may wear out and have to be replaced which will disturb any asbestos covering them. So, the proper removal and sealing of asbestos are critical.

Common uses of asbestos in a home? There are a number of places where it can be used. Indoors one common use is found with pipe insulation on hot water heating systems. Often older heating systems such as boilers have this. The pipe is wrapped with asbestos-containing insulation and corners of the pipes, or elbows, have a mud, or plaster, concoction that contains it as well. Usually these are in homes that are 40 years of age or older. Other places where it can be found are siding, shingles, flooring material, and certain ceiling materials.

Asbestos can be found in:

a)    sprayed or towelled on materials such as walls, ceilings and other areas,
b)    insulation on pipes, boilers, tanks, ducts, and other equipment,
c)    vermiculite insulation, and
d)    other materials.

How dangerous is Asbestos? Unfortunately there are no immediate symptoms. Before the mid 1970’s most people with asbestos-related diseases (asbestosis, lung cancer, and mesothelioma) were exposed to high levels while working in asbestos related industries. The belief is, then, that the relationship between low levels of asbestos exposure will mean that only a small proportion of people will develop asbestos-related diseases. Chest and abdominal cancers and lung diseases are associated with asbestos. People who smoke, children and young adults are at a somewhat higher risk.

Common Materials Containing Asbestos in Buildings: Acoustical plaster, wallboard, ceiling tiles, vinyl floor tiles, textiles (cloth, blankets, felts, theatre & welding curtains, tubing, sheets, cord, rope, yarn, tape), paper products (corrugated, mill board), roofing felts (shingles, smooth & mineral surface), concrete-like products (extrusion panels, clapboard & shingles, pipe), and, thermal insulation (batts, blocks and pipe insulation).

What should you do if you suspect asbestos in a home? Lab testing can be carried out to ascertain if samples taken contain asbestos. If it is found, a control program should be initiated. It is likely, at some point in the future that a home, which contains asbestos, will have to be dealt with.

Asbestos Containing Materials (ACMs) – Suggestions & Tips #20

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asbestos_containing_materials

Asbestos has serious health, safety & environmental issues related to it. Various cancers and lung diseases have been associated with asbestos. People who smoke, children and young adults are at a somewhat higher risk. Concerns increase with asbestos when it is in a friable (readily crumbled; brittle) state. Although different diseases, inhaling microscopic asbestos fibres can cause mesothelioma and asbestosis .

The use of friable asbestos containing materials (ACMs) in building construction was legislatively banned in the mid-1970s (for specific products). The use of asbestos in all friable building materials was essentially phased out of use un the early 1980’s and legislatively banned in 1985/86. The use of asbestos in non-friable building materials (this including the industry defined “semi-friable” building materials such as plaster, acoustical ceiling tiles, vinyl sheet flooring and paper products), although not legislatively banned, was drastically reduced in building construction in the early 1980s. Occupational Health & Safety and Environmental Consulting industries have established 1985/86 as the year after which it is increasingly unlikely to encounter non-friable asbestos building materials employed in building construction.

Asbestos may be found in many areas of a building such as:

  • sprayed or towelled materials (e.g. plaster, drywall compound) applied onto walls, ceilings and other areas
  • insulation on pipes, boilers, tanks, ducts, and other equipment
  • acoustical plaster
  • wallboard
  • ceiling tiles
  • vinyl asbestos floor tiles
  • textiles (cloth, blankets, felts, theatre & welding curtains, tubing, sheets, cord, rope, yarn, tape)
  • paper products (corrugated, mill board)
  • roofing felts (shingles, smooth & mineral surface)
  • concrete-like products (extrusion panels, siding / clapboard & shingles, pipe)
  • thermal insulation (batts, blocks and pipe insulation) / vermiculite

Typically, samples of the materials are taken for lab testing to confirm the presence of asbestos. There may be potential liabilities associated with homes / buildings containing asbestos. For example, they may have a stigma attached to them that may affect the value of the home perhaps; there may be costs associated with any removal / disposal of asbestos; and or, costs associated with ensuring the area containing asbestos is sealed off from living spaces and remains undisturbed in the event renovations are contemplated.

If asbestos has been removed at some point from a home / building, we recommend you ascertain if this work was carried out correctly. If there is asbestos present in a building, contractors doing work in it may not work in that environment and require that their safety is protected or request the removal of the hazardous materials. If present, remedial action may be required that can be costly in some instances, for example, based on the quantities present, its’ location, etc.

In the event of a fire for example, any ACM might taint other building materials in the aftermath making the clean up / remediation work one which must deal with a contaminated site of hazardous materials. Some insurance companies may limit or refuse to provide coverage on home / buildings with asbestos, or they may require additional / higher premiums, modifications, and/or further inspections / testing.

Click here for more information on asbestos.

Ask Questions When Buying A Home! – Suggestions & Tips #106

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Ask questions when buying a home – seems pretty straight forward, but in a buyer-beware real estate world, vendor disclosure may not be automatic. Of course, asking the right questions in the first place is key. You certainly don’t want to upset the vendors with needless questions either.

If you’re buying a resale home, ask as many questions as you can about it to learn about things like the neighbourhood, history, its condition, past repairs & known concerns. The more information you can obtain, preferably in writing, the better. Find out what the current utility costs are for the home by requesting invoices for your review. Keep in mind that these costs will fluctuate based on personal preferences & your usage as well. Talk with rural neighbours about well water as to flow / recovery rates, quantity & water quality. After all, you making likely the single biggest investment of your life!

Here are just some of the topics from 7 Things To Ask Before Buying A Home you might want to consider asking about:

  • Permits
  • Seller Property Information Sheet
  • Owner’s Manuals, Material / Installation Specifications
  • Homeowner’s Insurance Coverage
  • Warranties & Guarantees

Like any investment, your due diligence is key to buying your dream home.

Attend Your Home Inspection or Not? – Suggestions & Tips #159

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inspector

How involved should you be in your home inspection? We feel our clients can play an active and important role in the inspection process. That’s why we request that they be present during the inspection. While we recognize you might not be able to attend your home inspection for the entire time, we certainly encourage it. Simply reading your inspection report or getting a summary is not enough in our view! If you’re being told to stay away or to only come at the latter part of the inspection, you should ask why. Besides, home inspections are action packed, full of excitement and bound to be a bundle of fun…just think, you’ll get to see what those weekend warriors were up to as well 🙂

Seriously though it’s your day, so attend your home inspection and follow us around and ask questions…that’s what we’re there for. We want you front & centre at the inspection there for a number of reasons, none more important to inform us and point out any concerns that you might have. It’s also a great opportunity for you to learn about things like the location of utility shut offs and home maintenance tips and what needs to be done around the house & when. We want you to provide us with any information you might have regarding the home that can assist in painting a clearer picture about its condition.

  • It’s NOT for us to decide, or tell you, whether or not to buy the home.
  • We want to show you what we may have discovered…and we always find something!
  • We want you to read our entire written report & talk to us about any questions or concerns you have.
  • We may also recommend that you get further explanations and or clarifications from alternate sources on some of the items we identified during the inspection.

By attending the inspection it’s your opportunity to carry out part of your due diligence on the home. You will likely not have spent as much time at the property as you will during an inspection that takes 3 hours or so. The more involved you are in the inspection process, the better off you will be in obtaining more information about what will likely be the single largest purchase in your life! So please…attend your next home inspection!

Attic Hatch Doors – Suggestions & Tips #88

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attic hatch doors

You may find it odd to be talking about attic hatch doors as most people rarely use them or even venture into their attic. As a result, many are unaware of the potential problems they can cause.

Attic hatch doors should be insulated and sealed so that there is no air infiltration to / from the house and attic. If this is not done, there is a potential for condensation to form, water / moisture damage and mould growth in the attic when, for example, in the winter warm house air migrates into the attic. As a result, the hatch door needs to close tightly within its opening, have the trim work around it well sealed (e.g. with weather stripping, caulking, etc.), and ensure that the hatch door itself has sufficient insulation, whether the door is on the ceiling (pictured left) or in a knee wall (pictured right).

If you’re not sure about your attic hatch door, get it inspected.

Attic Spaces

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Attic spaces perform several functions. It’s part of a home’s building envelope that protects you and your house from the elements through the use of insulation, ventilation and vapour barriers. Here’s are some common methods of creating this space:

TRADITIONAL STICK FRAMING — In constructing a roof this way, the most straightforward is a gable roof. Here, all roof rafters are cut to the same length. At the ridge, the proper angle is determined according to the pitch/slope of the roof. At the eaves/soffit area, the rafters are notched (called bird mouths) to sit on the exterior wall or rafter plate. Dormers and skylights can be added. Aside from the simple gable style are others such as a hip roof.

Ceiling joists are used to support the ceiling finish and act as ties between exterior walls. In some cases they may also be used as a tie for opposing rafters. In a pitched roof, the ceiling joists are nailed to the side of the rafter to prevent them from moving outward. The ceiling joists overlap over the centre load-bearing wall and are nailed together providing a continuous tie across between opposing rafters.

In a rafter-framed attic, where the pitch/slope of the roof is less than 4/12, (considered a low slope roof), the loads of the roof are carried by a beam(s) as opposed to a truss. Here, the roof rafters and the ceiling joists are designed to carry loads from the weight of the roof with snow etc. These loads are then carried to interior partitions by supports angled greater than 45°, knee walls, and ceiling joists. In doing so, the outward force is reduced on the roof and continuous ties between the lower ends of opposing rafters are not necessary.

Advantages — provides for more insulation at the edge of the ceiling.

Disadvantages — generally, they are more costly to construct than trusses.

ROOF TRUSSES — Today, builders often use prefabricated roof trusses. Although convenient and less time consuming than traditional framing, its main drawback over conventional roof trusses is that insulation space is minimized at the soffit areas.

a) Raised Heel Trusses — generally, this type of truss will resolve this problem. Although costs associated with a raised heel truss (manufacturing cost, extra siding, extra insulation,) may be greater, energy savings and the prevention of surface condensation (reducing the likelihood of ice damning) can justify the investment.

Advantages — provides for full insulation depth in all areas above the ceiling; a clear span; and, a continuous air-vapour barrier.

Disadvantages — more costly than conventional truss (e.g. more soffit siding will be required).

b) Dropped Chord Truss — this truss consists of a conventional truss with a second lower chord below it.
Advantages — may reduce truss uplift; provides full depth insulation up to the perimeter walls; allows for a clear ceiling span and continuous air-vapour barrier.

Disadvantages — requires taller studs; more siding is required; blocking required at the ceiling and wall junction for air-vapour barrier attachment.

c) Scissor Truss — the lower chords of the truss are sloped, rather than horizontal, allowing for the construction of a house with cathedral ceilings.  In doing so, there is not the need for a bearing beam or wall. These trusses can also be modified to accept more insulation when used in conjunction with a raised heel.

Advantages — often easier to get more insulation in than with other types of cathedral ceilings.

Disadvantages — may be more costly than other methods of construction; may be more difficult to insulate between chords if not using blown insulation.

d) Parallel Chord Trusses — These trusses consist of parallel chords of wood that are joined by an open web of wood, or steel braces, or a solid web of plywood. This type of truss permits high levels of insulation in cathedral ceilings.

Advantages — allows for large amounts of insulation in cathedral ceilings and also can provide ventilation without purlins. Can provide large, clear spans and allow for application of a continuous air-vapour barrier.

Disadvantages — higher cost than dimensional lumber. With a web of steel braces, heat losses due to thermal bridging can be high. Difficult to insulate between chords, but blown insulation may help with this problem.

CATHEDRAL CEILING FRAMING — One method of framing a cathedral ceiling is ceiling joists of 2×12 are used as rafters but if the two layers of R-11 batt insulation are desired, the entire rafter space will be filled with insulation. To allow for the proper ventilation space above the insulation, 2x2s are first nailed to the top of each rafter and parallel to them, to give at least 11/2 inches of air space above the insulation. Then a second layer of 2×2 (2x3s or 1x4s can also be used) are nailed to the rafters and perpendicular to them to allow for attachment of sheathing and roofing. This alternative assures a cold, ventilated roof with adequate ventilation parallel to each rafter space when tied to appropriate eaves and ridge ventilation, and still allows a cathedral ceiling design.

Advantages — In some areas, lower cost than parallel chord trusses.

Disadvantages — Limited to a maximum of R-40. Reduced insulation values at the ceiling joists.

TRUSS UPLIFT — In some houses with trusses, an upward movement of the ceiling occurs resulting in damage to interior finishes, particularly to interior ceiling and walls. This can result from: different moisture contents in the lower and upper wood chords of the truss; lumber expanding at different rates than others e.g. varying upper and lower chords; and, insulation covers lower cords resulting in differing expansion and moisture than that of non-insulated cords.

Proper grading and drying of lumber can minimize truss uplift. In addition, the builder assist by providing: adequate attic ventilation; don’t block the soffit vents with insulation; use drywall clips to connect the ceiling drywall to the partition-wall top plates; fasten the ceiling drywall far enough away from the partition wall such that the ceiling drywall can absorb some deflection; and, buy and keep trusses dry.

Automobile Exhaust, Garages & Indoor Air Quality – Suggestions & Tips #73

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automobile exhaust

Automobile exhaust is best left outdoors and certainly not in your garage. Vehicles pollute. Just starting your car with the garage door open can allow carbon monoxide (CO) & other chemical contaminants to enter your home.

Ensure that the air from an attached garage can’t find its way into your home:

  • The garage man door into the house should have good weather stripping, its door frame sealed and a working automatic door closer.
  • Common house-garage walls / ceilings should be properly sealed with no holes or gaps including any wall / ceiling penetrations for utilities.
  • Don’t have heating ducts, exhaust fans, clothes dryers or the likes venting into the garage.

All of the items above leave an attached garage “open” to (and not sealed from) the rest of the house. As a result, there is the potential for dangerous CO from automobile exhaust to enter the home. This is potentially dangerous and in the worse case fatal. In addition, other by-products of combustion degrade you indoor air quality and can make you ill.

An exhaust fan in the garage that vents to the exterior of the home & garage can be effective.

Avoid Dryer Fires – Suggestions & Tips #14

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clothes_dryer_lint_fire

Don’t become a fire statistic…fires can cause the loss of life & property! Avoid dryer fires and play it safe….generally they are easily preventable.

Lint that is allowed to accumulate in the vent pipe of your clothes dryer can be a potential fire hazard. The problem can compound itself when the vent pipe is:

  • longer
  • crushed / kinked
  • has a number of bends / joints in it
  • termination points are blocked by birds / rodent nests
  • has clogged screens

If you have observed any lint in and around your clothes dryer or vent pipe, this may be an indication of a blockage.

It is recommended that you inspect and clean the vent pipe on a regular and periodic basis thereafter. Cleaning the lint trap each time you use the dryer is also recommended to reduce lint build up. Use of a smooth metal vent pipe (as opposed to a corrugated plastic vent pipe) can minimize / reduce lint build up. Gas clothes dryers should not use a plastic vent pipe.

A build up of lint will increase your drying times, use more energy and cause the dryer to overheat.

Backflow Prevention Valves for Sewers – Suggestions & Tips #46

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sewer backflow

Sewer backflow prevention valves (or check valves) can reduce the risk of a sewer back up into your basement. They are a mechanical device that allow the waste water to flow away from your home only. As a result, they can decrease your chances of sewage from the street backing up into your home when installed & maintained appropriately.

Today, this device is more apt to be found in a newly constructed home, however many homeowners are choosing to have it retrofitted into their home. This typically requires that the concrete slab floor in your basement is cut into to provide access to the drain pipes for its installation. A properly installed sewer backwater valve is intended to prevent flooding when waste water in the sewer lines backup into the house through the drainpipes. If this occurs, it can cause damage that is costly to repair and poses serious health concerns too not to mention the terrible inconvenience during remediation.

Periodic inspection and maintenance of these devices by a licensed plumber is recommended.

You should also consult your homeowner’s insurance broker to ensure you have adequate coverage in the event of a sewer back up. Inquire as to whether or not the installation of a sewer backflow prevention valve can save you money on your insurance premiums.

Balancing Your Heating System – Suggestions & Tips #51

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balancing your heating system

Balancing your heating system is a bit like juggling. You need to tweak various parts of it to maximize the efficiency of your forced air system. It’s a bit of a trick too!

To do so, a number of factors play a role in optimizing the performance of your forced air furnace (and cooling system) and include:

  • the location, insulation, sealing, size, bends and length of runs in ductwork
  • the velocity of your circulating fan
  • dampers in the ductwork can assist in diverting airflow

To complicate matters, some homes don’t have enough cold air returns. It could be that they are missing from a second floor or in a basements rec. room. Whatever the case, insufficient cold air returns can make the balancing of supply and return near air impossible. As a general rule, the square inches of supply registers should be the same as at the cold air return registers to ensure a proper even flow.

Ideally, the balancing your heating system is best done when the duct work is installed in the first place. Unfortunately, there often insufficient time and budget during new home construction for this. While homeowners may be able to make some minor adjustments, to get it done correctly, get the heat where it’s needed and eliminate heat losses can be a lengthy process that’s best left to professionals.

Balloon Framing – Suggestions & Tips #29

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balloon framing

Balloon framing is an older method of construction used to frame buildings (typically pre-1940) where the studs in the bearing walls run uninterrupted from the sill plate on the top of the foundation wall up to the roof plate. The floor joists are then nailed onto the studs.

This style of framing is no longer used; in large part because of the open cavities it creates in the wall that can act like a “chimney” allowing any fire that beaks out in the basement (or first floor) to rapidly travel upwards to floors above and into the attic.

Today, “Platform Framing” is used in residential home construction where the frame of the building is raised one story at a time, with stud walls that are a single story high. The stud walls for each story are set over the underlying joists and sub-floor; the joists for subsequent floors lie on the top plate of the stud walls below.

If you own or are purchasing an older home with “balloon framing” there are likely steps you should take to minimize the risk of fire spreading rapidly in that home. You should also inform your insurance company to ascertain what concerns they have with balloon framing, if any.

Basement Apartments – Suggestions & Tips #36

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basement_apartmentThinking of making some extra cash renting out basement apartments?

If you’re considering adding a new basement apartment or legalizing / retrofitting an existing one, there are some things you should know. Certain regulations are in place for houses with apartments (or secondary suites) that local municipalities have regarding by-laws / zoning, and inspections required for Building Code, Fire Code & Electrical Code concerning:

  • smoke alarms,
  • carbon monoxide detectors,
  • proper means of egress,
  • fresh air supply for combustion appliances,
  • automatic door closers,
  • fire rated doors,
  • fire separations,
  • parking spots,
  • minimum ceiling heights,
  • minimum entry door height & width,
  • windows / exhaust fans in bathrooms.

Think you’ll take the chance with basement apartments…not comply or get around to doing it later? Well, you may find that non-compliance may result in fines and possible jail time. Further, in the event of a fire for example, you may not have insurance coverage and it was not a legal conforming basement apartment.

Before entering into the world of being a landlord by converting your basement into an apartment, consult the professionals that can set you down the right path first.

Bird Problems in Your Home – Suggestions & Tips #120

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bird problems

Birds are very interesting to watch. However, when birds need a house to nest or roost in, get them their own. You don’t want birds (dead or alive), feces or nesting materials getting into your home. You need only watch Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds” to be reminded of how problematic they can be 🙂

Heading birds off at the pass is best, ensuring they can’t take hold in your home, outbuildings or worse yet…take them over completely. Ensuring they can’t get into attic spaces or other areas is your first line of defense. However, if they’ve already gained access, you’ll need to take care of it directly so as not to make matters worse.

While inspecting homes we often come across bird problems like nesting materials, feces, feathers & dead birds. Nesting materials are a potential fire hazard, can block ventilation areas and eavestroughs e.g. nests in chimneys & vents block moisture and carbon monoxide (CO) from being vented from the building, promoting mould growth and CO health hazards. Bird droppings are very corrosive and can cause damage to roofing materials, structures building materials and equipment. Birds also carry allergens, parasites and other health risks to humans including infectious diseases. Bacteria, viruses, spores, parasites, fleas and ticks can be health hazards in affected buildings.

If you think you have or had birds in your house, call a professional licensed exterminator to deal with them. As for what damage they may have caused to the building or its systems / components and or what safety / environmental concerns might of concern as a result, please give us a call.

Breakdowns

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Never you say! Often we’re asked how long we think a particular home system or part might last. It’s a difficult question to answer because there are many factors, which can go into determining this.

Have you ever gone to your car one morning and tried to start it but it fails? You can’t figure it out because the day before it worked just fine. You sit there, turning the key in the ignition (probably wearing the battery down too), but to no avail. The only thing left to do is to get help from some one, the motor league, perhaps. You make the call and they’re on their way. You wait with the car and decide to give it another go. To your astonishment, it starts, just as the tow truck pulls up. Or possibly even more embarrassing is when it starts when the tow truck operator turns the key.

Maybe the easiest way to explain part of this phenomenon is to tell you that the unit is mechanical. That’s it. In the same way you can’t get the lighter for the barbeque to fire up every time (especially when company’s coming) so can other units in your home fail…sometimes permanently and sometimes not. For example, a hot water heater which is a couple of years old may work fine and be nowhere near the end of its’ economic life yet it fails the next day. On the other hand a rusty old furnace which is 20 or 25 years old and at or near the end of its’ economic life may continue to work for years to come. How many of you have seen one of those old refrigerators down in a friend’s basement or garage running just fine even though it’s missing a shelf or two inside? Or how about one of those classic cars from the 1950’s that just purrs even though the manufacturers warranty ran out during the first few years it was driven off the lot?

A Home Inspector, with his trained eye, looks for the “tell tale signs” which may indicate a potential problem. For example, how old is the unit, is it functioning now, are there any signs of wear, has it been well maintained and inspected regularly. Just like the classic car, many of the items you buy in your home can last longer than the manufactures’ warranty too; it’s just that now you are working with borrowed time. Here are some ranges for the estimated useful lives (in years) of some household items:

Estimated Life Span (Years)

  • Heating Systems: 10 to 25
  • Heat Pumps: 10 to 15
  • Cooling Systems: 10 to 15
  • Dryers: 10 to 15
  • Washers: 10 to 15
  • Ranges: 10 to 20
  • Refrigerators: 10 to 15
  • Water Heaters: 10 to 15
  • Roofs: 5 to 75
  • Decks: 5 to 25

As you can see these approximate life spans can vary greatly. In part this can be due, in the case of a roof for example, to the type of materials used (e.g. asphalt, wood shingles, tile, underlayment), the roofing system itself (e.g. component parts, ventilation), and the conditions surrounding the installation (e.g. season, weather, expertise of contractor).

Homes’ that may look alike can be built or maintained differently with techniques being proper or improper on a scale from economy to deluxe. So, knowing what you’re getting is only half the battle. Knowing the condition it’s in is the other.

Buckets & Pools – Suggestions & Tips #81

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buckets & pools

Buckets & pools can be great tools around the house…wait, what?!?! Here are some of the strangest things we’ve seen in attics…

That’s right, buckets & pools! They were blow-up pools so you could get them into the attic through the hatch door and probably 20-30 strategically placed buckets. If you’re not familiar with the technique, it’s a Great way to catch any of the rain water that leaks in…or you could fix the roof perhaps.

Of course other creative ways to collect water leaking into an attic is to cover the entire space with a layer of plastic. It not only traps the rain water from multiple leaks in the roof, but this added water in the attic and the plastic trapping moisture under it is a great recipe for damaging the wooden building materials (e.g. roof rafters, trusses, roof sheathing, wall ties / ceiling joists) wood damage, the ceiling itself not to mention the insulation.  It also a great way to grow mould too!

In some attics we’ve seen the homes (bathroom / kitchen) exhaust fans connected to the furnace chimney which allows dangerous carbon monoxide to re-enter the home.

Our advice to you…unless you’re thinking of going swimming in your attic (tongue in cheek), get your new or resale home inspected before you buy it!

Building A New Home? – Suggestions & Tips #113

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building a new home

Thinking of building a new home? There’s lots to consider and even more decisions to be made like selecting a site location, general contractor, building design, interior layout and what building materials & finishes to use! It can be a very anxious time to say the least.

Whether you’re buying a new home or having one built for you, progress inspections can ensure that items contracted for are being carried out to your satisfaction. By hiring a private independent inspector they can:

  • review contracts, drawings, blueprints and the likes with a “non-legal” view to help manage your expectations with what has been contracted for.
  • act as a second set of eyes and offer suggestions for your consideration to include or exclude in the build
  • provide progress inspections on various items, such as: footings, lateral sewers & water, foundation, under slab drains, plumbing & mechanical rough-ins, framing, insulation & vapour barriers, final interior / exterior
  • ensure that specified materials, finishes & extras are carried out according to your contracted wishes.
  • carry out the final pre-delivery inspection with you.

If you’re building or buying a brand a new home, visit the site daily to review the days progress to ensure what you contracted for is being done to your satisfaction. If you’re not comfortable with construction practices, get professional help…hire a private independent inspector that will look out for your best interests!

Buildings With Asbestos Containing Materials (ACM) – Suggestions & Tips #38

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asbestos containing materials

If you are not aware, generally all buildings that have asbestos containing materials (ACM), whether they are friable (readily crumbled) or non-friable, must have an Asbestos Management Plan (AMP) in place according to Ontario Regulation 278/05. In general, it states that an AMP will be provided where:

  • the owner of a building treats material in the building, including insulation, fireproofing and ceiling tiles, as if it were asbestos-containing material;
  • the owner of a building has been advised of the discovery of material that may be asbestos-containing material;
  • the owner of a building knows or ought reasonably to know that asbestos-containing material has been used in a building including insulation, fireproofing and ceiling tiles;
  • an examination established or would have established if carried out, that asbestos-containing material has been used in a building for any purpose related to the building, including insulation, fireproofing and ceiling tiles; or
  • a constructor or employer advises the owner of a building of the discovery of material that may be asbestos-containing material .

Asbestos has serious health, safety & environmental issues related to it. Various cancers and lung diseases have been associated with asbestos. If you are buying a building that has or you suspect has ACM, we recommend that you request an AMP from the owners / vendors. The regulation applies to every project, building owner, and every constructor, employer and worker engaged in or on the project.

If asbestos has been removed at some point from a home / building, we recommend you ascertain if this work was carried out correctly. If there is asbestos present in a building, contractors doing work in it may not work in that environment and require that their safety is protected or request the removal of the hazardous materials. If present, remedial action may be required that can be costly in some instances, for example, based on the quantities present, its’ location, etc.

In the event of a fire for example, any ACM might taint other building materials in the aftermath making the clean up / remediation work one which must deal with a contaminated site of hazardous materials. Some insurance companies may limit or refuse to provide coverage on home / buildings with asbestos, or they may require additional / higher premiums, modifications, and/or further inspections / testing.

Click here for more information on asbestos.

Buying a New Home? – Suggestions & Tips #8

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new_home_construction

One of our most popular tips for those buying a new home: Review your purchase agreement with your lawyer to ensure your builder has set out in one place all the extras (or adjustments) that can be added to the price of your new home, so there are no surprises or hidden costs.

In Ontario, the TARION Warranty Corporation is responsible for administering the New Home Warranties Plan Act, which outlines the warranty protection that new home and condominium builders must provide, by law, to their customers.

We recommend that clients be completely familiar and aware of their rights and responsibilities under this program, including carrying out required inspections and reporting to TARION. Homebuyers should review TARION’S handy reference guide “Construction Performance Guidelines”, which is intended to help builders and homeowners understand which work and material defects are covered under the statutory warranty.

There are several points at which you will want inspections carried out on the home, for exmpale:

  • progress inspections while the house is being built (in addition to those by municipal building officials)
  • pre-delivery inspection (or PDI) prior to occupying the home and also required by the builder and TARION
  • 30 day inspection – after closing, also required by TARION
  • one (1) year inspection – also required by TARION after occupying the home

These inspections will be critical in documenting your concerns for further follow up and evaluation by your builder / contractor and TARION. Of course, some will not be comfortable with carrying out these inspections on there own and prefer to hire a 3rd party like Grassroots® to assist them along the way. So, understand what it is you are required to do and be prepared.

Buying Tips for Central Air Conditioning

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Over the years we’ve been asked a lot about what makes a good central air conditioning system. While we don’t recommend any specific brand, here are some buying tips for central air conditioning units.

Choose A Quiet Unit — Yes, there are units that are quieter than others. Look for units with two speed fans at the outdoor condenser unit. The larger the diameter of the fan the more likely the unit will be quieter as it will need less RPM’s to expel the heat. An insulated, separate, compressor compartment will help too. Ontario has set 7.6 BELS (a sound rating) as the standard. A rating of 7.2 or lower is very good. Where the unit is installed outside will also make a difference.

Good Design Critical — Look for a factory sealed refrigerant system installed with pre-charged lines and quick disconnect fittings. Ensure the unit has a low ambient cut out switch that turns the unit off when outdoor temperatures fall below about 15 C. Vinyl coated grills, polyester paint, and, corrosion resistant screws on the condenser unit will make the unit remain attractive for years. Low Operating Costs — Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) is a measurement of the cooling efficiency. A SEER value of 9 is the minimum performance standard in Ontario. Some manufacturers have equipment with ratings of 11 or higher. Choosing a unit with a SEER rating of 11, compared to 10, is an increase in efficiency of 10% and 10% reduction in operating costs. Choose a SEER rating as high as practical within your budget.

Ease of Service — Look for copper tubing with aluminium fins as opposed to all aluminium. Access to the compressor is also important.

Environmentally Friendly — Choose a unit whose refrigerant is has the least effect on the environment and in particular the ozone layer.

What Size Unit Is Required? — The term “ton” is used to describe the amount of ice required to cool an area. (1 ton = 12,000 BTU/HR). A general rule of thumb, based on house size, is:

Sq. Ft.    Tons Required
1,000 – 1,500    1.5
1,500 – 2,000    2.0
2,000 – 2,500    2.5
2,500 – 3,000    3.0

Clearly, this will vary from house to house based on, but not limited to, the amount of insulation, windows, skylights, shade trees, etc.

Cancer and Electro Magnetic Fields Linked by Study

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Is there a link between cancer and magnetic fields? A five year study by Canadian researchers at the University of Toronto, in conjunction with the Hospital for Sick Children, have found “an association” between childhood leukemia and high magnetic field levels from sources such as power lines. Funding for the research came from Ontario Hydro Services Co. (formerly part of Ontario Hydro) and the Canadian Electric Association.

Children, some outfitted with personal monitors, who were exposed to magnetic fields in residences, both indoors and out, were found to be 2 to 4 times more likely to have leukemia. Children under age 6 were especially at risk. The findings were released in the June 1999 International Journal of Cancer and Cancer Causes & Control. In 1992, the Karolinska Institute in Sweden released a study showing a connection between proximity to power lines and various cancers, most notably childhood leukemia.

Electricity is taken for granted most of the time but it may be harming us. If currents leaving and entering a home not equal, an “inequity” can create a magnetic field along the service drop — where the electricity is fed into the house. These unseen electromagnetic fields (EMF) are lines of force that surround house wiring, power lines in the street and high-voltage lines. Some household items that can produce EMF include knob & tube wiring, electric appliances, microwave oven, electric range, heated aquariums, plug-in analog clocks, blow dryer, heated waterbed, electric blanket, electric baseboard heat, table fan, fluorescent light, cellular phone, electric space heater, and, computer monitors.

EMF are stronger relative to the strength of current, and its intensity falls off quickly with distance from the source. Currently there have been no acceptable levels of EMF emissions set down by any governing bodies in North America, however in Sweden a reading of 2 milliGauss (mG) is thought to be acceptable. A number of epidemiological studies in the area of childhood brain cancer and leukemia linked with EMF are at magnetic field levels above 2-3 mG. This suggests that EMF levels below this are safer. Some have suggested guideline levels of 1 mG or even 0.65 mG.

When buying a home practice prudent avoidance — include a satisfactory EMF inspection requirement in the offer to purchase, and avoid homes with levels above the 2 mG. Although it is not necessarily a safe level it may be a level of acceptable risk relative to higher levels, given what we know at this time.

Can’t I Buy A Home That’s Been Inspected?!?! – Suggestion & Tips #173

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Multiple offers on a property? No time to get a home inspection done? Feel you need to present a “condition free” offer in order to get the house of your dreams? But what shape is the home that you want buy in?

Buying a home without an inspection presents a significant risk and certainly not advisable. The Ontario Real Estate Association (OREA) doesn’t even it recommend it. You don’t want to find out after you’ve purchased a house and moved in that there are issues that need to be addressed after the fact. It only makes sense to get it inspected before hand. You wouldn’t buy a used car without having a safety check done on it, and a car costs far less than a home!

RECO (Real Estate Council of Ontario) says that buyers who exclude a home inspection clause in their offer to purchase “may later learn that there are property defects, required repairs or needed upgrades that you weren’t aware of. In some cases, this can be expensive in the short or long-term. Foregoing a home inspection is a significant risk that a buyer needs to carefully consider.” Not surprisingly, we get calls after the fact to inspect those homes when recourse options are few.

So why is it that people feel they must buy without having an inspection done? It’s likely because of the emotional nature of the purchase. They love the location, the kitchen, the workshop or the yard … and feel compelled to buy it without an inspection. However, if you waive your right to a home inspection and later find problems, you will likely have an uphill battle trying to recoup costs from other party(s).

But what about the seller? They certainly don’t want to hear from you after the sale about any problems that have been discovered, nor do the Realtors®. Funny thing is, most sellers also don’t want to be put in a situation of not having a home inspection done when they go out buy their new home either. So how can buyers and sellers find comfort?

In these situations, the best thing to do is look for homes that have had a pre-listing inspection carried out on them. This is just like a pre-purchase inspection that is carried out by the purchaser, except in this case the vendor / seller has a pre-listing inspection done for themselves and potential buyers to review.

Have you ever asked yourself, why hasn’t the vendor / seller done a pre-listing inspection on this home I’m looking at? Chances are they don’t know they can, they aren’t obligated to do one so why bother, and or are fearful of what is, or might be, lurking in their home.

So if you’re looking to buy a home, make sure it’s inspected either as a condition of Offer to Purchase or as a pre-listing inspection by the vendor / seller! If for some reason that’s just not possible, don’t for get about our Ride Along Inspection™ where we tag along with you when you’re out looking at homes or The Oops Inspection™ where we conduct an inspection after you’ve purchased the home.

You Get What You Inspect NOT What You Expect™

Related Topics:

• Multiple Offers & Home Inspections
• No Home Inspection Clause in Your Offer to Purchase, Say What?!?!
• Should Mortgage Lenders Insist Their Clients Have A Home Inspection?

Related Services:

• Home Inspections – pre-purchase & pre-listing inspections
• The Oops Inspection™ – an inspection carried out after you purchase the home
• Ride Along Inspection™ – hire us by the hour to tag along with you when viewing homes
• Litigation Support & Dispute Resolution Services – we bought the house, found troubles & need help

Carbon Monoxide Detector Law – Suggestions & Tips #95

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carbon monoxide detector law

On October 15, 2014, the new Hawkins-Gignac Act (Carbon Monoxide Detector Law) received Royal Assent in Ontario making carbon monoxide detectors in all homes and rental properties mandatory, effective immediately. It applies to buildings with one or more suites designed for residential occupancy; and, that has a fuel burning appliance installed or contains a storage garage.

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a by-product of combustion of fossil fuels e.g. natural gas, propane, oil, kerosene and wood to mention but a few. If you have a furnace, fireplace, stove water, heater, generator, area heater or clothes dryer fueled by one of these sources then it has the potential to leak carbon monoxide into your home.

Play it safe – make sure you have working carbon monoxide detectors in your, it’s the law. If you’re looking for a great life-saving gift to give your loved ones and friends, consider a carbon monoxide detector.

Click to view more information on the Hawkins-Gignac Foundation for CO Education.

Click here to view more information about Carbon Monoxide.

Carbon Monoxide Hazards

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Of all the non-fire-related carbon monoxide (CO) deaths, estimates are that 80% relate to gas-fuelled appliances. In fact, half of all fatal poisonings in the US are attributed to carbon monoxide. Chronic exposure to relatively low levels will lessen your life span. The Silent Killer — Colourless and odourless, carbon monoxide is attributed to thousands and thousands of people being either killed or injured each year.

What is Carbon Monoxide? — Like radon gas, carbon monoxide is a colourless and odourless too. CO is a non-irritating poisonous gas.

Where does Carbon Monoxide come from? — Whenever fossil fuels are burnt carbon monoxide is produced. For example, if you burn gasoline, natural gas, propane, kerosene, charcoal, coal or wood without sufficient air carbon monoxide is produced. Likely sources in the home can include the gas appliances such as a furnace, hot water heater, fireplace and stove. Some other sources include gasoline engines, charcoal grills, and kerosene heaters. Although poorly vented appliances contribute to carbon monoxide in a home other areas include cracked heat exchangers in gas furnaces for example. Homes that are more air tight through energy conservation measures may cause a vacuum in effect in the home causes back drafting or negative pressure in vented gas appliances. Wood fireplaces generally are more dangerous than forced air furnaces because wood smoke that spills into the room always contains carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is also a major component of cigarette smoke.

At what level is Carbon Monoxide dangerous? — It only takes a few minutes for a person to collapse and die from carbon monoxide if exposed to large doses. It can also cause severe heart and brain damage. Some symptoms the body can experience include headaches, drowsiness, nausea, vomiting, dimmed vision, shortness of breath, and dizziness. Flu and viruses are often blamed for the effects of this carbon monoxide gas. Infants, seniors and those with cardiovascular disease, anaemia, lung disease and an increased metabolic rate are at greater risk. Carbon monoxide in cigarette smoke is a major cause of coronary artery disease. Pre-birth exposure has been associated with learning and memory defects.

Liquid fuelled (kerosene) stoves, coal stoves, and wood stoves are very dangerous as carbon monoxide is in their combustion products. Gas appliances are less dangerous as long as there exists sufficient outside air and for venting of combustible products. Open windows and air leaks will often make this less of a concern, however, in homes where construction is more airtight and windows are closed carbon monoxide becomes a threat.

What can you do? — The use of carbon monoxide detectors in a home will greatly reduce the number of deaths and injuries. Professionals can also do inexpensive testing for this silent killer.

Carpenter Ants – Suggestions & Tips #77

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carpenter ants

Are they carpenter ants or termites you think you see in your home? Or are they just regular house ants?

Unlike termites, carpenter ants do not eat wood. Instead, they tunnel through the wood while building or expanding their nests. They then discard the wood debris and fecal matter from their nests. This is an indication of their presence when looking for their nest.

Carpenter ants are social insects living in colonies and prefer wood with high moisture levels. Indoors they tend to nest in structural wood, wall voids, attic areas, insulation (foam or fibreglass), hollow doors, window & door casings or voids beneath kitchen / bathroom cabinets. Due to their relatively small size (1/4”-1”), these ants can enter a home almost anywhere such as cracks in the foundation or around window and door openings. Common house ants on the other hand are even smaller at 1/8”- 1/4”.

If you’re unsure what kind of insects are in your home, call a professional to reduce the likelihood of any wood damage occurring.

Casement Windows & Awning Windows – Suggestions & Tips #57

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casement windows

Casement windows (and awning windows) have some great attributes about them. For example, they look great, are convenient & easy to use, and when closed they seal tightly in their frame. However, these windows also require regular / periodic maintenance. Here are just a few items for you to consider:

  • the windows should be cleaned and lubricated on a routine basis
  • ensure there is no build-up of materials such as dirt and the likes that gathers between the sash & frames
  • clean the windows using a non-abrasive cleanser, and then rinse all surfaces thoroughly
  • lubrication (such as silicone) should be applied to the hardware & operating mechanisms to ensure their proper operation, at least annually.
  • don’t use a sticky lubricant (such as oil) as that can attract dirt and build up over time restricting movement of the mechanical parts.
  • check the condition of sealed window joints, repairing as needed to prevent moisture entry into your home
  • ensure any wood surfaces are sealed appropriately e.g with paint, stain etc.
  • utilize and inspect the windows for functionality on periodic basis

If you are about to buy a home with casement windows (or already own a home with them) make sure your Saturday Morning Job Jar includes their regular inspection and maintenance.

Check out other related home maintenance & building topics.

Cast Iron Pipe Problems – Suggestions & Tips #150

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cast iron pipes

Cast iron DWV (drain, waste, vent) pipes are not rust proof and over time corrode, perforate or crack allowing effluent (sewage) and dangerous sewer gas (methane) to enter a building. If you saw a cast iron pipe in a home your are considering buying or already own home with them, take note.

Commonly, these pipes rust from the inside out. Most frequently it occurs first with “horizontal” and low sloped pipes first as they do not drain well / completely compared to pipes with are vertical. In the end, ultimately, these pipes will need to be replaced as they have a life span of about 50 to 100 years when new. To complicate matters leaks go undetected initially as they are often buried underground, encased in concrete floors or within wall cavities. In some cases, only visible portions of the cast iron pipes have been replaced making their detection unknown during an inspection.

You may be surprised to learn that this is also one of the alarm bells with insurance companies. As such, they may refuse coverage on these homes or require, for example, additional premiums, and or repair / replacement.

If you are about to buy a home or own a home that has cast iron pipe, protect yourself…get it inspected.

Change your Clocks Change Your Batteries – Suggestions & Tips #104

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change your clocks change your batteries

Daylight saving time, don’t forget – change your clocks change your batteries!

It not all about gaining or losing an hours sleep. Daylight saving time is a great time to change the batteries in your smoke alarms and carbon monoxide (CO) detectors. If you have hardwired electric models, consider replacing with ones which have a battery back up in the event the power goes out. For that matter, battery (only) operated units are fine too. In fact, using differing types of alarms and detectors are often a good idea as they can all work differently or under different conditions.

Remember to test your smoke alarms and CO detectors at least once a month. In Ontario, working CO detectors are now required by law in every home as are working smoke alarms. It’s important to point that smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors have pre-set life spans, so be sure to replace them according to manufacturer’s specifications, generally this is every 5 to 10 years.

Where should you have them? We recommend you have at least one of each per level and per bedroom. Larger houses will require more.

Be safe – protect yourself, your loved ones and your prized possessions – when you change your clocks change your batteries!

For more information on alarms, sensors & detectors click here.

Chinese Drywall – Suggestions & Tips #85

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chinese drywall

Chinese drywall refers to drywall (or wallboard) that was imported from China (from approximately 2001 to 2007). It emits a mixture of sulphur compounds resulting in “rotten egg” smell or sulphur odour. In addition to its awful smell, it can corrode metals and damage things like electrical wiring, air conditioner coils, appliances, electronics and copper plumbing.

Largely, the drywall from China was imported into the United States, however some came into British Columbia and made its way as far east as Toronto. There are class action lawsuits and settlements regarding Chinese drywall in the United States. The US CPSC has called for the replacement of all:

  • problem drywall
  • smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) alarms
  • electrical distribution components, including receptacles, switches and circuit breakers, but not necessarily wiring
  • fusible-type fire sprinkler heads

The health effects of exposure are mainly upper respiratory and include eye and throat irritation, shortness of breath, nosebleeds, and dizziness.

If you think your home may contain Chinese drywall and are unsure, get it inspected!

Closing In A Deck / Porch – Suggestions & Tips #145

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Closed in Deck

Thinking of closing in a deck / porch? There’s some serious consideration that will be needed as it’s not just about adding walls or roofs.

If you have an existing structure that you’re considering closing-in or building on top of, chances are the support structure will need to change in order to accommodate it. While its conceivable that the existing foundation might be sufficient, there will be considerable weight being added in the process. The above pictures are examples of support structures that have failed because load above was too great for them.

Walls and roofs, not to mention the snow load from a roof, require a proper foundation and footing. There’s no reason to think that the original support structure will suffice, unless it was originally constructed with your future renovation in mind. As with any renovation or repair work, there’s plenty you’ll need to think about before embarking on a project of this magnitude. You’ll need to assemble a number of professionals to assist you likely including, for example, a lawyer, qualified building contractor, licensed electrician & plumber to mention but a few.

If you’re thinking of closing in a deck, porch or any other structure protect yourself…get it inspected!

Cold Cellars – Suggestions & Tips #10

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cold_cellar

No matter what you call it, a cold cellar, fruit cellar or root cellar can be a great addition to your home. Trouble is, they often are not built properly or maintained correctly to act as one. When built & maintained properly, the cold cellar design will avoid that damp and musty feeling often associated with these spaces.

With cold cellars that are intended to be a “cold space”, you should ensure that:

  • the common interior building-cold cellar walls are insulated with proper vapour barriers
  • the door used between the cold cellar and the rest of the house is an insulated exterior grade access door
  • there is proper weather-stripping / seal between the building itself and the cold cellar door.
  • your cold cellar has air circulation in it at all times by having proper ventilation to the exterior / outside of the home (for example in winter).

The above will assist in reducing the chances of condensation build up and the potential for mould growth in cold cellars.

If on the other hand you don’t want a cold cellar and would prefer to turn it into a “warm space” (in other words, make it it part of the interior of the home) you should ensure that:

  • provide insulation and vapour barriers on the exterior walls of the cold cellar,
  • remove say ¾” off the bottom of the interior access door so there’s air circulation providing heat to reach this area, much like you would for an interior closet of a home.
  • If this space is large enough, you might consider taking the door completely off and treating it as a small interior room.

Built and designed properly, cold cellars should provide all the utility needed for cold storage.

Cold Flu Symptoms? – Suggestions & Tips #54

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cold flu symptoms

Are you experiencing cold flu symptoms? Could be that it’s neither of these. Maybe it’s something in your house.

When windows & doors are closed up your indoor air quality (IAQ) often worsens. Commonly people report symptoms like:

  • dryness & irritation of the eyes, nose, throat & skin
  • headache
  • fatigue
  • shortness of breath
  • hypersensitivity & allergies
  • sinus congestion
  • coughing & sneezing
  • dizziness
  • nausea

Many of these symptoms may also be caused by other health conditions including common colds & flu, making recognition of IAQ issues difficult. People with upper respiratory issues, medically fragile & environmentally sensitive individuals may be affected sooner or to a greater extent when their indoor air quality suffers.

If you’re having troubles pinpointing what’s causing you troubles in your home, and you’ve ruled out the cold & flu, it may be time to look at your indoor air quality (IAQ) at home or work.

Click here to read more about indoor air quality issues.

Cold Houses – Suggestions & Tips #98

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cold houses

In extreme cold humans get frostbite, hypothermia and windburn. Winter weather can make cold houses suffer as well.

Building materials expand and contract at differing rates depending on which parts are exposed to frigid temperatures, areas that have greater heat loss or where heated portions of the home are adjacent to areas which get less or no heat. As a result, you will likely hear differing sounds as these materials move. It may be a creaking sound, perhaps a bang and can occur at anytime, but often when there are temperature fluctuations in those materials.

Water pipes can burst & ice dams can form allowing water penetration into your home. Prepare for cold weather with regular maintenance & inspections. Reduce heat loss by sealing cracks in your home. Ensure your heating system works efficiently. Falling temperatures means your heating system use increases. If you have closed off areas in your home from heat sources, use area heaters where room temperatures drop below say 5C (41F). Be aware that when room temperatures plummet or spaces are unheated they are prone to condensation and mould growth.

Insulating your home can go along way to keeping the heat, if you have all the cracks in the house sealed up first. After holes in the house, the biggest heat losses will be the attic and basement walls.

Colds, Flu – Think IAQ Instead!

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When winter comes we have a tendency to make sure we close up the windows and doors, put plastic wrap over the leaky windows, and make sure the weather stripping is in place to mention but a few. It’s seems to be a winter ritual for many Canadian homeowners. After all, we’ve been taught to conserve energy not to mention mind our pocket books. But along with winter comes a decrease in our indoor air quality whether we have a newer airtight home or a home we make more airtight for winter. It goes without saying that indoor air quality is always worse than outdoor air.

Experiencing any of these symptoms? — eye, nose, or, throat irritation, watery eyes, sneezing, cold/flu like symptoms, fever, digestive problems, skin rash, fatigue, wheezing, severe allergic reactions, upper respiratory discomfort, lethargy, nausea, headaches, insomnia, depression, diarrhoea, chest pains, asthma attacks, drowsiness, vomiting, dimmed vision, shortness of breath, dizziness, influenza and other infectious diseases. Ask yourself — Do these symptoms go away when you leave the house? Do I experience these symptoms only at home, or, at work or other indoor locations?

If you are experiencing any of these symptoms, you may want to look closer at your indoor air quality (IAQ). These symptoms may be an indication that there are concentrations of mould, yeast, carbon monoxide (CO), carbon dioxide (CO2), nitrogen dioxide (NO2) or, formaldehyde vapours (HCHO) in your home or office that you are sensitive to. If you think this applies to you consult us about testing for these serious and harmful indoor air pollutants.

Combustion Spillage – Suggestions & Tips #41

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combustion gas spillage

Combustion spillage from burning fossil fuels in your home can make you very sick or worse yet, be deadly!

Do you have one of these fossil fuel burning appliances in your home:

  • wood stove
  • wood burning fireplace
  • gas fireplace
  • furnace that uses natural gas, fuel oil or propane
  • water heater that uses natural gas, fuel oil or propane
  • natural gas or propane BBQ
  • gas cook stove / range
  • portable oil or kerosene heaters
  • combination oil / wood furnace

The above and other fossil fuel burning appliances must have their combustion gases vented to the outdoors. Otherwise, dangerous gases may escape into your home and cause serious health & safety concerns. In the case of a BBQ, you don’t want to use it in your garage or close to an opening in your house where fumes can come indoors.

The number of houses with potentially significant spillage is increasing according to CMHC. Toxic compounds found in the smoke and invisible gases from combustion gas spillage can cause everything from headaches, serious illness and death. Carbon Monoxide (CO) is one common by-product of combustion, but it can also include carbon dioxide, nitrogen dioxide, sulphur dioxide, formaldehyde and particulates too. Warning signs of spillage can include upper respiratory issues, repeated headaches, skin & throat irritations, combustion odours, soot stains and hot/muggy air by the furnace. Having working smoke and CO alarms are a must, but they will not detect other combustion gases such a nitrogen dioxide, sulphur dioxide, formaldehyde. Protect the ones you love, monitor your home’s indoor air quality (IAQ) for combustion spillage and if you aren’t sure how to do it, have it tested.

Click here for more information on indoor air quality (IAQ).

Condensation & Humidity – Suggestions & Tips #12

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condensation & humidity

Is it condensation & humidity or just water you’re seeing in your home?

When warm, moist air comes into contact with a surface that is too cold, moisture condenses. In winter, the water and frost that you see collecting on windows is a visible example of this. Condensation may also be collecting in your attic and inside the exterior walls. On the other hand, in summer if you have your basement windows open warm moist air from outdoors can condense on your cool basement foundation walls. Over time, if the air in your house is too humid, the result may be damage to the house structure, your possessions and possibly your health. Controlling humidity in your home is the best step to preventing mould problems.

Condensation can result from a number of areas, such as:

  • excessive moisture production
  • inadequate ventilation with outdoor air
  • cold surfaces
  • cool basement surfaces in the summer

You can try to control condensation by first reducing the level of moisture in the home and secondly keeping surfaces warm. All moist stale air in the home should be replaced with fresh air every 3 to 4 hours. Without the air exchange, your home can accumulate moisture, mould can become a problem and you can experience poor indoor air quality as a result.

While increased house air-tightness can improve energy efficiency, it may also lead to a greater need for mechanical ventilation. A sufficient air supply may also be needed to prevent combustion appliances from back drafting. People and pets produce moisture when they breathe or perspire. Even indoor plants produce moisture. We add water vapour to the indoor air through routine household activities such as cooking, showering, bathing, doing laundry, and dish washing. More moisture can enter your home from the surrounding soil through a basement or crawlspace.

We recommend that you measure the relative humidity (RH) in your home. CMHC (Canada Mortgage & Housing Corporation) suggest some rules of thumb to prevent window condensation during the heating season:

  1. recommended indoor RH of 30% to 50%; and,
  2. when it is below –10°C outdoors, that the indoor RH be 30%.

Uncontrolled condensation & humidity can lead to mould growth, poor indoor air quality and deterioration of building materials. If condensation or high humidity persist in your home, seek further professional advice.

Controlling Mould

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Controlling mould is an important step in maintaining your home’s indoor air quality. In order for mould to grow, high moisture levels are required. Keeping your house “dry” should reduce the chances of any serious problems taking hold. Try and maintain the relative humidity (Rh) in your home at about 40% whenever possible. Moulds usually require a humidity level of at least 50% to grow and growth under 65% is not common. If mould growth is noticed, remove it using a solution of bleach and water. A “drop” of detergent can be added but don’t add too much because detergent is “sticky” and a great breeding ground for mould. If you can, try and determine the cause of the problem.

Mould and the cleaning/removal of it have serious health and safety concerns related to it. Always take the proper precautions and wear proper attire when cleaning it (e.g. protective gloves, respirator, etc.). If you’re allergic to mould don’t clean it. For some, simply touching mould can cause severe allergic reactions and in extreme cases fatalities.

Here are some items you can try which should help keep your home free from mould and its related health problems.

  • Make sure your exterior walls, basement, and, attic are insulated and have vapour barriers
  • Check the venting of your heating system
  • Clean and maintain humidifiers & dehumidifiers
  • Don’t use carpet in high moisture areas like the bathroom, kitchen and laundry room
  • Check for mould growth on window ledges, bathtubs, showers and other high moisture areas
  • Don’t dry laundry indoors on a line
  • Don’t keep damp laundry around
  • Don’t overcrowd closets or cabinets and allow air to circulate
  • Dry off shower and bath surrounds after every use
  • Use exhaust fans in the bathroom and kitchen.
  • Use a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) or air exchanger to exhaust moist, stale inside air and replace it with fresh outside air.

Cracks in My House – Suggestions & Tips #70

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air infiltration

With over a kilometre of cracks in your home, reducing air leaks can be a trick to say the least.

Cracks in homes are often located where you have different building materials coming together. As a result, there are a number of things you need to check such as around windows / doors, receptacles / light switches, where the bottoms of walls meet the floors, and penetrations to the exterior of the home, etc. Air leaks also occur at bathroom exhaust fans, kitchen range hood vents, clothes dryer vents, openings around plumbing pipes / utility lines, and cracks in foundation walls to mention but a few.

Sealing up these cracks and openings in your house is beneficial in reducing air infiltration and include:

  • reduced energy use
  • improved comfort
  • health & building durability
  • in winter, less cold outdoor air would replace heated air, reducing drafts and cold areas
  • in summer, more hot, humid air would be kept out of the house
  • pollen, dust
  • possible radon entry can be reduced

One word of caution though, as you seal up your house and make it more “air tight”, you’ll need to better manage condensation / humidity and your indoor air quality.

If you’ve not taken steps to reduce air leaks or are unaware if you have any air infiltration, consult a professional to assist you.

Crawlspace Ventilation – Suggestions & Tips #37

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crawlspace ventilation

Crawlspace ventilation and air circulation within them is very important. Without it, damage can occur from moisture.

In crawlspaces that are considered a “cold space”, a general rule of thumb is that a minimum of 1 sq. ft. of venting should be provided for each 500 sq. ft. of the crawlspace. At least two vents should be used to maximize airflow. The vents should be located as high as possible to catch naturally occurring breezes. Increased ventilation for crawlspaces with dirt floors is recommended. Insulation and vapour barriers in the crawlspace are also important e.g. ensure heating ducts and the underside the 1st floor are insulated; protect all water supply lines protected from freezing. Venting of unheated crawlspaces should be provided at all times.

Crawlspaces that are a “warm space” should be treated like a regular basement. That is, they should be heated and have appropriate air circulation; cold air returns to the heating system if forced air, insulated walls / floors and appropriate vapour barriers.

Read more about foundations & basements.

Deck Failures – Suggestions & Tips #25

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deck_failures

Most deck failures and collapses occur when under the heaviest of loads, which unfortunately can occur when people are actively enjoying the deck. It can have fatal and catastrophic consequences.

These failures take place at certain key points in the deck’s structure, with the connection of the deck to its ledger board at the building being a common culprit. Having the appropriate span, spacing and sizing of structural components like beams and joists correct in the first place is crucial. However, all of these must be attached with proper fasteners and brackets (where appropriate) using nails or screws designed for its purpose (e.g. use of joist hanger nails / screws not deck screws or drywall screws). Screws and nails are not interchangeable in the construction process. Making sure the deck structure is plumb and level will ensure loads are transferred to intended locations.

Other common deck failures occur as a result of weak guardrails that can give way and allow someone to fall off the deck. Bench seating around the deck’s perimeter or guardrails with horizontal slats on them are also unsafe as children can be climb up them and fall. Guardrails that are too low or that have balusters / spindles spaced too far apart are also potential fall hazards. Spacing deck boards properly can reduce trip hazards as well.

Make your deck a safe & enjoyable space for everyone to use. If you are unsure, call a professional.

Deck Fasteners For Your New Deck – Suggestions & Tips #78

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deck fasteners

Building a deck? There are plenty of decks styles to choose from, or you can design your own. Depending on what you’re building, chances are you’ll likely require metal connectors  and deck fasteners to ensure it’s built right.

These connectors however need to be fastened or attached properly too. For example, a metal joist hanger must be fastened using the appropriate joist hanger nails (or screws) that have the sheer strength for the designed load. These hangers are not to be fastened with just any old deck screws, drywall screws or nails. Also, each and every hole in the metal joist hanger must be nailed off, not just some.

Build your deck to be safe for your friends & loved ones and prevent deck failure of collapse.

Dehumidifier – Do you need one? – Suggestions & Tips #112

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dehumidifier

Do you really need a dehumidifier? Well that depends on a number of things.

How air-tight is your home? Newer homes are often sealed better and can trap moisture & humidity more so than older homes. Does your home have any leaks from plumbing or where water gets in. How many occupants are in the home that are showering, cooking and doing laundry.

The best way to know if your humidity is too high is to is to measure what the relative humidity (Rh) levels are in your home. You can buy a hygrometer to accomplish this from you local hardware store and . Canada Housing and Mortgage Corporation (CMHC) recommends indoor RH at 30% to 45%, to a maximum of 50%. In summer, this can be a trick in a basement without the use of a dehumidifier.

Generally May is the time of year we should start to use a dehumidifier in our basement to reduce humidity levels. They work best in the warmer months up until about November. While central air conditioning removes humidity as well it doesn’t run continuously and is not triggered to work in the presence of humidity like a dehumidifier does to help to control indoor moisture. Newly built homes have considerable moisture and will likely benefit from running a dehumidifier regardless of the time of year. Of course, removing the source of moisture (e.g. from a leak) should be a priority.

Detectors, Sensors & Alarms

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Where there’s smoke there’s fire, right? — Although it may seem hard to believe, there are still homes today that do not have smoke alarms or, if present, malfunction for one reason or another. Toxic smoke fumes kill. The majority of fire related deaths come from smoke poisoning. Working smoke alarms can save lives.

What types of Smoke Detectors are there? — Aside from battery and electric there are two main types of smoke alarms:

Ionization — these units’ sense carbon particles (not smoke per se) and are thought to be more reliable in terms of less false alarms. A downside is that they tend not to pick up “whiter” or light-coloured smoke.

Photocell — uses a LED light and mirror. Any smoke passing between the two triggers the alarm. A downside to these units is that sometimes dust particles can set off the alarm.

Where should Smoke Alarms be installed? — At a minimum they should be on every level of your house near the stairs connecting levels. On bedroom levels they should be installed near the bedrooms. We recommend that they be installed in every bedroom as well.

Electric smoke alarms should be wired ahead of any regularly used lighting to ensure that their circuits are operating. If more than one electric smoke detector is in use, they must be wired such that if one signals, all alarms will sound. It is recommended that electric models should have a battery backup or in any event used in conjunction with battery-operated models. New homes must be wired with the appropriate approved electric model.

Tip — Change the batteries in your smoke alarms at least twice a year and do it when you adjust your clocks for daylight savings time. One report states that 40% of inspected smoke alarms do not work largely as a result of dead batteries.

What Smoke Alarm should you buy? — there are pros and cons to almost every unit on the market these days. The old adage seems to be the best though — you get what you pay for, so don’t scrimp on your smoke detector. Manufacturers must meet a minimum threshold for sensing smoke and so, some do just that — others do more.

What are Heat Sensors? — basically, a high limit switch, which signal when a predetermined temperature is achieved or something over heats. These units are particularly useful in areas where open flames might be present or near heat sources, for example. Some smoke detectors will detect heat as well as smoke.

Why have Gas Detectors? — There has been much discussion of late about the thousands and thousands of Carbon Monoxide (CO) deaths each year. We continue to see very few CO detectors in homes although numbers appear to be increasing in recent years.

CO is a colourless, odourless, and, non-irritating gas. CO is produced wherever fossil fuels (such as, gasoline, natural gas, propane, kerosene, charcoal, or, wood) are burnt without sufficient air. Of all the non-fire-related carbon monoxide deaths’ estimates are that 80% relate to gas-fuelled appliances.

The use of CO detectors in homes will greatly reduce the number of deaths and injuries. Only a few minutes exposure to CO can cause a person to collapse and die from large doses. Chronic exposure to low levels of CO will lessen your life span. It can also cause severe heart and brain damage.

Are there other Gas Detectors? — with indoor air quality becoming a greater concern of late there are more and more gas detectors available on the market today. They include, gas detectors for Carbon Dioxide (CO2) and Nitrogen Dioxide (NO2), and Radon Gas. They come a variety of forms such as badge style or personal detectors as well as well as plug-in models. On-site testing for the presence of the gases can also be done on an as needed basis.

How Do You Clean Your Alarms, Sensors & Detectors? — Dust and debris can clog your devices and they may not perform as intended as a result.

For battery-powered devices, you can clean them by removing the cover. Then gently vacuum the cover and inside with a soft bristle brush.

For electrically-connected devices, turn off the power to the unit and then gently vacuum the vents on it’s exterior only. Turn the power back on.

Test all devices after cleaning them.

Dispute Resolution & Litigation Support – Suggestions & Tips #80

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dispute resolution

While you had hoped to resolve things in a more simple atmosphere, sometimes it takes an inspection that documents the areas of concern and the ramifications of those findings to help all parties with their dispute resolution. If things have escalated and you’re contemplating or already underway with legal proceedings, you’ll likely need litigation support to best present your case.

It often feels like it never rains but it pours. You think you’ve done everything right but no one is willing to budge.  Maybe you are:

  • having troubles with a new/used home or commercial building you leased or purchased?
  • experiencing troubles with your renovator / contractor regarding work they’ve done?
  • think you’ve overpaid for work done or are unsure about the workmanship and materials used?
  • as the owner of a home / building that was sold or leased, the buyers are making unreasonable demands of you?
  • as a contractor / renovator that has done work to a home or building your customers are being unreasonable and won’t pay you?

Whatever the concern might be, it’s never too late to have an inspection done to let you know the condition that things are in and whether your concerns are justified. Better yet, call us before you start the process of buying, selling, renovating or carrying out any maintenance work. We can review your documents (in conjunction with your lawyer), make recommendations and check out the work as its being done.

If you feel dispute resolution might be needed or require litigation support regarding problems with your house / building , give us a call.

DIY Disaster or Best of Intentions? – Suggestions & Tips #147

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Strange attempts to fix a wet wall and hose clamp.

Often when we’re inspecting homes, we find that DIYers come up with some very creative ways to “fix” problems. It’s not always clear if it’s just a DIY disaster or the DIYer simply had the best of intentions. Perhaps it’s both, but regardless they can be amazing.

Sadly, they’re only temporary or band aid solutions at best. Going to the effort of venting a chronically damp wall cavities (see left picture) by installing a series of vents in the common garage wall is futile if you are not going to simply fix the roof that is leaking and causing the moisture in the first place.

Or take a look a the picture at the right. Here the DIYer seemingly designed a newfangled type of “hose clamp” instead of just repairing / replacing a shut-off valve. Chances are, this may very well be met with soggy results.

It’s one thing for a DIYer to take emergency action in the event of something that’s gone awry…makes perfect sense as long as it can be done safely and without injury to the person or damage to the property, however these should not be confused with a permanent corrective action.

It’s hard to imagine how in the above photos these “fixes” weren’t meant to be anything other than permanent…and aren’t. If you’re buying a home, or own a home that needs repair, protect yourself…get it inspected!

 

Don’t Rush To Buy A House- Suggestions & Tips #56

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don't rush

Buying a house is an emotional process. It can be a very anxious time as well. But it’s important that you don’t rush and make sure that you carry out your due diligence just the same. After all, it’s likely the single biggest purchase of your life.

Allow plenty of time and take a critical look at your potential dream home. For example:

  • visit the property on as many occasions as you can, preferably at different times of the day
  • talk with neighbours
  • do as much research on the property as you can
  • consider what important questions you need to ask
  • make your “offer to purchase” conditional on having the house inspected and attend that inspection

We find clients don’t like to be put in a position where they must make significant decisions on the spot or in a rush at the end of an inspection. Take at least 24 hours to digest what happened at the inspection and review your report in detail, fully mindful that you’re likely making one of the largest investments in your life.

Reduce anxiety…slow down, don’t rush & make a wise buying decision knowing an inspection will help provide peace of mind!

Double Lugging / Tapping – Suggestions & Tips #86

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Double lugging (or double tapping) is an electrical term that refers to two or more conductors (or “hot wires”) connected to one circuit breaker or for example at the main lug nuts where the service entrance wires are under screw. Generally, these connection points are not designed for the two or more wires to be attached to them and could come loose (a potential fire hazard).

When more than one neutral wire is connected at a single termination point it is a significant problem too as the circuit needs to be isolated. If not isolated, the connection on the other energized circuit would become loose. This loss of neutral under load is a safety hazard.

The correction for double lugging / tapping seems simple enough to accomplish as you need only remove the one of the two wires under screw and attach to its own separate breaker fro example. Unfortunately, this can’t often be done as there are usually no available circuit breakers which caused the double tap to occur in the first place. In this case, connections in junctions boxes outside of the panel may be appropriate. Regardless, its work which a licensed electrician should do and determine what is best under the circumstances.

Do not take your panel cover off your distribution panel if you are not completely aware of how to do it safely and with the power off! Always seek the advise of a professional before starting any work.

Drain Water Heat Recovery (DWHR) – Suggestions & Tips #28

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Drain Water Heat Recovery

Water heating is the second biggest use of energy in Canadian homes according to National Resources Canada. A majority of that hot water is used for showering. Wasted heat energy from shower drainage is an untapped source of savings for virtually every home.

A drain water heat recovery (DWHR) unit installed on a home’s DWV (drain waste, vent) pipe is designed to act as a “heat exchanger” and recycle that heat energy from shower drain water. As a result, it can reduce hot water heating costs and greenhouse gas emissions. The efficiency and effectiveness of a DWHR unit is lifestyle dependent however. In other words, high shower use households will obtain more benefit than households where baths are more common.

While drain water heat recovery units are more commonly installed in new construction, they most certainly can be retrofitted into an existing home. If you think you could benefit from the energy savings from installing one of these units, learn more and check out what CMHC has to say about how these units can save energy.

Drainage Slopes – Suggestions & Tips #9

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drainage slopes

Water, water, everywhere…but what to do with it?

Creating and maintaining adequate drainage slopes around a building can reduce the risk of water leakage or seepage into basement / crawlspace areas. We recommend that this be done, for example, where the ground adjacent to the building is sloped inappropriately, flat or sloping towards the building.

Factors contributing to water penetration issues into basements / crawlspaces can include:

  • soil adjacent to a building that causes water to pond or that is flat / sloped toward the foundation
  • sidewalks that act as a barrier to drainage or that have a negative slope toward the foundation
  • planters that trap water
  • gravel that discourages drainage of water away from the foundation.

Sloping the soil away from the building and sealing any gaps between sidewalks / driveways that are adjacent to the foundation wall with an appropriate expandable sealing material can improve drainage. Installation of a waterproof barrier below the planting soil that is sloped away from the foundation may assist with effective drainage away from the house.

Drip Loops for Electrical Service Cables – Suggestions & Tips #143

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Drip Loops for Electrical Service Cables

You know water & electricity are a bad combination, and likely figured out from the pictures above that it’s not a great idea to have your incoming service entrance cables from the hydro pole touching metal downspouts that carry water. But another very important aspect is to have “drip loops”.

Drip loops are created by leaving the incoming service entrance cables to the home’s electrical service left long enough to make a half moon shape or drip loop before they enter the weatherhead at the service mast. As its name implies, a drip loop allows any water that collects on the wires to fall off and not enter service pipe / conduit into the main disconnect / distribution panel or make contact with electrical connections.

Not sure about your house? Get it inspected!

Eavestrough Downspout Neglect – Suggestions & Tips #90

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eavestrough downspout

Eavestrough downspout neglect can be a challenge when cold weather sets in and the leaves are falling. Keeping debris from getting in can feel like a full time job!

It’s well worth the effort however, as it can reduce the effects of ice damming, damage to eavestroughs themselves, as well as wood damage / rot to roof decks, fascia, soffit and siding. When eavestroughs overflow water can dump next to the foundation, cause damage to landscaped areas or allow water entry directly into your home. If water / moisture can enter your house, you run the risk of wood damage / rot, structural damage and mould growth.

There’s never a good time to inspect and clean your eavestroughs and downspouts, but there’s never a good time to have water problems in and around your house either 🙂

Electrical Services – 60 Amp or Less

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The size of an electrical service can play a crucial role in your home. Some homes have a 60 amp service, or less, as opposed to the more common 100 amp service. In fact, some homes will have a larger 200 or 400 amp service depending on their specific requirements.

Is a 60 amp service (or smaller) safe? This will depend on how the system was installed, maintained and / or improved upon over the years. Generally though, there is nothing less safe above the size of this service than larger ones, except than some smaller services are not grounded. There are a number of ways this can be addressed without installing a larger service. In fact, installing a larger service will not necessarily address the grounding of branch circuits.

An ampere (“amp” for short) is the unit of electrical current in a circuit. Volts measure the force or pressure behind the current. Watts are a total measurement of power derived from multiplying amps times volts (W = A x V). If we rearrange this equation then A = W / V. Let’s take an example to better explain this:

A regular receptacle in a home has 110 volts going to it. If you were to plug in a lamp with a 100 watt light bulb it would draw almost one (1) amp. Using the above formula 100 watts divided by 110 volts equals 0.9 amps. (0.9A = 100W / 110V). What does this mean? Most receptacles in a home, for example, are designed to carry a 15 amp load before the tripping the breaker at the main distribution panel. The wire that carries that load is designed only to carry those 15 amps too…they’re matched up in terms of size or load. Using our example then, simply put, you can only put about 15 light bulbs that are 100 Watts in size on a 15 Amp circuit before the breaker trips or the fuse blows. It gets more complicated too when you use things like motors and such as they are required to start from a dead / off position and require more amps initially than when running continuously.

There are certain issues surrounding smaller electrical services and perhaps most notable are the lifestyle restrictions it may impose for some people. If you have a 60 amp service this means you can only have a limited number of items “up and running” at one time without the main service becoming overloaded. Often, these smaller services have less branch circuits and distribution wiring too which can mean less receptacles available for your use a particular room or even throughout the house. When you consider certain appliances require their own dedicated circuits, for example, a stove at 40 amps, a clothes dryer at 30 amps, an air conditioner at 30 amps, a microwave a 15 amps, etc. you may find that a 60 amp service is not enough for your particular lifestyle. Even though there are dedicated circuits that doesn’t mean they use all the amperage all the time. For example, a 40 amp stove circuit is designed so that all the burners along with the oven, etc. can be on at one time. So, if you’re only using one burner, you won’t be using 40 amps but something far less.

Another item of note is that certain homeowner insurance providers may require a further inspection by the electrical utility authority in your area. They may determine that certain upgrades are required in your home, for example, to the service and / or electrical system to bring it up to a 100 amp service. In the event that you decline an Inspection by them, your insurance may be declined. Whether you have an inspection by them, or not, your homeowner insurance provider may request additional / higher premiums. Some insurance companies prefer to insure homes with updated wiring and / or services.

Electro Magnetic Fields (EMF) – Suggestions & Tips #33

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electro magnetic fields

What are electro magnetic fields (EMF)?

An electric field is created when a lamp is plugged into a receptacle. EMF occurs when that lamp is turned on. Transformers on a hydro pole, buried cables or hydro towers produce higher levels of EMF than say your household appliances. EMF is stronger relative to the strength of current, and its intensity falls off dramatically with distance from the source.

There have been numerous studies published on EMF indicating that extremely low frequency magnetic emissions may present serious health risks. Occupational exposure to these emissions has been associated with elevated death rates due to leukemia, brain tumours, an across-the-board decline in the immune response system, other cancers, as well as, central nervous system concerns. Exposure during pregnancy has been associated with significant increases of miscarriage and increased infant mortality. It has also been associated with an increase in suicide and obesity.

Studies continue on this controversial topic that may eventually resolve some of the uncertainties. Until the final results are available, be informed about EMF; consider testing for its presence and practice prudent avoidance.

Learn more about electro magnetic fields.

Electro Magnetic Fields (EMF) 101

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There have been numerous studies published on Electro Magnetic Fields (EMF), which indicate that extremely low frequency magnetic emissions may present serious health risks. Occupational exposure to these emissions has been associated with elevated death rates due to leukemia, brain tumours, an across-the-board decline in the immune response system, other cancers, as well as, central nervous system concerns. Exposure during pregnancy has been associated with significant increases of miscarriage and increases in infant mortality. It has also been associated with an increase in suicide.

Where do EMF come from? — Electricity is the unseen helper of our times. It’s taken for granted most of the time but it may be harming us. EMF is stronger relative to the strength of current, and its intensity falls off quickly with distance from the source. If currents leaving and entering are a home not equal, an “inequity” can create a magnetic field along the service drop — where the electricity is fed into the house. Commonly, the current enters the home by way of a transformer on a hydro pole which reduces the voltage to the service drop and on through to the meter. From here it travels throughout the home’s wiring, receptacles, fixtures, appliances, etc. It then returns through the electrical panel to exit back to the pole on the street. Some current can even travel along the grounding wire attached to the home’s water pipes. This can in turn travel underground to the next home. Homes located near high voltage overhead transmission lines can be a concern as well, as lighting rods are typically attached to them. The electric power industry is looking for ways to reduce the publics’ exposure to the lines’ magnetic fields. Currently there have been no acceptable levels of EMF emissions set down by any governing bodies in North America.

How serious can EMF be? — While we are still unsure about the effects of EMF certain precautions are being taken. In July 1991 the Swedish government adopted standards restricting emissions from computer monitors. In 1992, the Karolinska Institute in Sweden released a study showing a connection between proximity to power lines and various cancers, most notably childhood leukemia. The New York City Board of Education adopted even stronger restrictions. The East York (Toronto area) Board of Education permanently closed a kindergarten room and moved to a portable. The Toronto Board of Health formally adopted a policy for avoidance in 1993. In 2002, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) and part of the World Health Organization (WHO) concluded that: “ELF magnetic fields are possibly carcinogenic to humans, based on consistent statistical associations of high level residential magnetic fields with a doubling of risk of childhood leukaemia. Children who are exposed to residential ELF magnetic fields less than 0.4 microTesla have no increased risk for leukaemia.”

Some common household items that can produce EMF include — Microwave Oven, Electric Range, Heated Aquariums, Plug-in Analog Clocks, Blow Dryer, Heated Waterbed, Electric Blanket, Electric Baseboard Heat, Table Fan, Fluorescent Light, Cellular Phone, Electric Space Heater, Computer Monitor, Knob & Tube wiring.

What can you do? — Large scale studies now underway may eventually resolve some of the uncertainties left by early research. Until the final results are available, be informed about EMF, test & monitor regularly for its presence and practice prudent avoidance.

Energy Efficiency & Comfort Levels

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There are a couple of things you can do to maximize energy efficiency and comfort levels, which you may not yet have considered.

Although electric heat is widely thought to cost more it should nevertheless be considered when heating individual areas. Many of these units, whether they are a baseboard heater or micro-styled furnace, can often effectively heat, for example, a room that is used infrequently. With separate heating controls they are only used on demand — when needed. This can be more cost effective than turning on a forced air system or boiler that heats an entire home when you just need more heat in a particular room.

Weather stripping, caulking, vapour barriers, plastic windows barriers, insulating tapes and extra insulation are always worth considering too. This coupled with proper attic ventilation can increase the benefits. Programmable thermostats can save you money too by regulating when to heat your house. They afford you the opportunity to turn back the heat when you are not there or during sleep times. Humidifiers can provide moisture to the warm air that will increase the home’s relative humidity and make the home feel warmer which will allow you to turn back the thermostat.

System maintenance is also key to maximizing levels too. If the furnace or filters are dirty the furnace has to work that much harder. This too is the case with an un-maintained blower and blower motor. Cleaning can usually be achieved with a wire brush and vacuum. An improperly adjusted or dirty burner itself can cause the furnace to work improperly. Ductwork on forced air systems should be sealed at their joints. They should be cleaned periodically. Install dampers on the lines so you can better control the heat to certain areas of the home. Although we have talked about forced air systems mostly be sure to properly maintain any system. High efficiency units should be thought of as high performance race cars — they’ll need to be tuned regularly.

Environmental Concerns in Homes – Suggestions & Tips #74

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environmental concerns

You may be surprised to learn that there can be environmental concerns in homes that you are unaware of. Some may only affect those that are environmentally hypersensitive, while others may affect those with compromised immune systems or upper respiratory problems. Some may develop an allergies or resistance to allergen. If the health & welfare of the occupants is not a concern, it may be to future buyers. Additionally, more and more, these unwanted environmental issues are confronting home buyers today in other ways too. It can:

  • be a potential liability to homeowners
  • cause homes to have a stigma attached to them that affects their value
  • have costs associated with any remedial / abatement work
  • place contractors / workers in unsafe / unhealthy working conditions, stooping work until remedied
  • in the event of a fire, it may taint other building materials left in the aftermath making clean-up / remediation costly and not covered by insurance

Perhaps it’s affecting your indoor air quality (IAQ), your property due to environmental items stored there, or simply items installed or used to build your home. No matter…they can all be a concern!

What about you? Are you environmentally hypersensitive to building materials in your home? If you are concerned about environmental issues in and around your home, contact us about what we can do to assist you.

Environmental Storage Concerns – Suggestions & Tips #82

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environmental storage concerns

During an inspection we occasionally find a number of items stored on a property that may be an environmental storage concern. They can include items such as:

  • paints
  • petroleum / bitumen / asphalt based products
  • batteries
  • automotive parts
  • gas tanks
  • tires
  • used oil
  • asbestos, lead
  • abandoned containers

The list is quite endless actually of possible contaminants and hazardous materials. These items can or may have had an impact on the property as a result.

When the storage of these items is curious and or improper on a property we recommend the effects of such, the proper disposal and removal of these items and the responsibility for any / all costs associated with them be ascertained before purchasing the property. If you’re unsure about the potential environmental impacts are on a property get further professional advice. Once you own the property, the responsibility will rest with you.

Exploding Glass Shower Doors – Suggestions & Tips #157

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exploding_shower_doors

Have you been hearing more about glass exploding…“spontaneously”? It can happen in the blink of an eye, with small pieces of glass raining down everywhere. And it’s not just exploding glass shower doors it happens to.

So, how can this happen to tempered glass when some installers even take blows with a hammer to it demonstrating how tough it is?

What is tempered glass:  ordinary, or annealed, glass is cut to size with holes drilled into it and other desired fabrication completed first. It is then examined for imperfections, the cut edges are sanded smooth and the glass is completely washed. Following this, the glass is tempered by heating it to approximately 620°C (1,148°F) and then quickly cooled, making it 4 to 5 times stronger. By tempering the glass it is not only stronger but is designed to break into small pieces as opposed to large shards like plate glass would. It must not be cut, ground, or drilled after it is tempered.

Where You Might Find Tempered Glass in Your Home: shower doors, deck railings, glass vessel sinks, table tops, oven doors, TV stands, desk tops, fireplace doors, basketball backboards, etc. Check with the manufacturer of your product to see what type of glass has been used in your application and follow the manufacturers’ specifications for installation and use.

Causes for Failure: nickel sulphide (NiS) inclusions in the glass material itself, damaged edges that are nicked or chipped during handling / installation, or edges that are ground after the glass was tempered. Sometimes the glass is simply too thin for its size or it is too tight within its frame to allow for expansion / stress. Impact and extreme temperature changes can also cause the glass to break. While glass failure may occur after it is manufactured, installed or stressed…it may occur many years later, making the predictability of its demise very difficult.

Safety Precautions / Remedies To Consider: don’t subject the glass to rapid temperature changes, don’t shake, rattle or slam the glass, avoid impacting it with hard or sharp objects, and protect the edges of the glass. Consider having a safety film professionally installed over the glass (if suitable in your application) to reduce the amount of broken glass flying off everywhere. Other types of glass, such as laminated heat-strengthened glass, may be an alternative to consider in your particular application also.

If you’re concerned about exploding glass shower doors, protect yourself…get it inspected!

Extension Cords, Power Bars & Plug-in Tap Outlets – Suggestions & Tips #15

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Acer Image

Do you have numerous extension cords, power bars and plug-in tap outlets (for example, expanding a receptacle from taking 2 to 6 plugs) in use in your home? This could be a sign of an outdated electrical system or that the spacing / number of receptacles in certain rooms is inadequate, causing you to utilize these expansion methods to satisfy your electrical needs.

The wires used in extension cord wires are designed to carry a certain amount of power (amperage) and commonly are less than that used in household wiring. Often this is not well understood by users making them a potential fire hazard.

Today’s electrical needs have grown significantly and as a result your home may require electrical upgrades to meet these demands. If this sounds like your home, further professional advice may be warranted.

Exterior Finishing System – EIFS / DEFS – Suggestions & Tips #170

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exterior_finishing_system_eifs-defs

Exterior Insulated Finishing System (EIFS) and or Direct Applied Exterior Finishing System (DEFS) are exterior wall cladding systems that have a synthetic / polymer stucco finish coat applied to them. It’s used on residential homes as well as commercial buildings.

With EIFS, an insulation board is attached to the substrate. Then a base coat is applied over the insulation panels with a reinforcing mess embedded into that base coat. Finally, a textured protective finish coat is applied over that. EIFS was developed after the war in Europe and began being used in the 1960’s in North America, but became more popular in the 1990’s. Perhaps one of the most popular benefits is the architectural details that can be added-on that are made out the same materials. The various types of moulding / details are really only hampered by your creativity.

DEFS on the other hand are typically the non-insulated version of EIFS. That is, the sheathing boards (such as DensGlass® Sheathing, DuRock and Hartitex™) act as the substrate to which the synthetic stucco is applied to.

Determining the type of system utilized, materials / methods used, underlying conditions and the likes is very difficult if not impossible to identify during a visual building inspection. Further, there are differing types of materials / products and applications utilized in the building industry.  For example, there are two types of EIFS that can be employed: one that is water managed (allows a path for moisture to escape) while the other system that is not. Today, the water-managed EIFS system is most commonly used. Regardless, the installation method, procedure and application are critical to the success of the system employed.

There is a history of problems concerning water / moisture penetration into buildings that caused wood damage / rot and the likes. This damage may be hidden, for example, inside wall cavities and not readily visible. Depending on the exterior finishing system used (manufacturer, product, etc.) there may also be class action lawsuits and or class action settlements regarding them.

To perform an EIFS and or DEFS inspection typically requires destructive or invasive testing. This may include puncturing the exterior surface with long pins from a moisture meter in various places and or cutting open the wall surface itself for further examination. This however is outside the scope of a normal visual building inspection.

Read more about Exterior Insulated Finishing Systems (EIFS)

If you are considering buying a home or commercial building with EIFS / DEFS, ensure you carry out your due diligence as to what has been installed in the first place and what warranties / guarantees are available to you, if any…and be sure to have the home / building inspected.

Exterior Insulated Finishing Systems (EIFS)

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Exterior Insulated Finishing Systems (EIFS) are multi-layered exterior wall systems that are used on both commercial buildings and homes. EIFS typically consist of the following components:

  • panels of expanded polystyrene foam insulation fastened with adhesive to the substrate. Sometimes the foam insulation panels are mechanically fastened to the substrate (i.e. held by screws), but usually they are held there by adhesives,
  • a base coat that is towelled over the foam insulation panels,
  • a glass fibre reinforcing mesh that is laid over the polystyrene insulation panels and fully embedded in the base coat, and,
  • a finish coat that is towelled over the base coat and the reinforcing mesh. The base coat, mesh and finish coats are usually 1/8 to 1/4 inches thick.

Here are two types of EIFS in use:

1) Water-managed EIFS – this type envisions some water penetration into the surface and incorporates water-management features (flashing, weeping, drainage plane and water-durable substrates) to ensure that water, which breaches the exterior finish, will quickly exit the system.

2) Barrier EIFS — are generally designed to divert all water at their exterior surface. They are EIFS are non-load bearing exterior wall systems with four primary components. Behind them are the wall substrate and wall studs. The substrate is usually gypsum board, plywood or oriented strand board sheathing. In some cases, the substrate may also be masonry. In Europe (where EIFS originated), the EIFS substrate is usually masonry.

Benefits of EIFS – The benefits of EIFS can include increased energy efficiency and virtually unlimited design flexibility. EIFS are definitely not a do-it-yourself wall-cladding project. They should be installed only by experienced applicators have completed an EIFS manufacturer’s training program.

Concerns with barrier EIFS – In one study, the National Research Council of Canada (NRCC), authorities on exterior building envelopes, found that water was intruding into the exterior walls near window assemblies, doorways, hose bibs and roof rakes in certain situations. In particular, vinyl combination windows were problematic, and many homes did not have the flashing and sealing recommended by EIFS manufacturers. There was little evidence that water had penetrated through the field of EIFS cladding. Because barrier EIF systems provide no means for allowing water to escape the wall cavity, intruding water is trapped inside the system, where it can remain for extended periods of time and eventually damage and even rot wood framing, sheathing and other moisture-sensitive building components. In the specimens without penetrations (windows) but with different base coat thickness’, results revealed that both wall assemblies were relatively airtight and watertight.
The same tests were conducted on the water-managed specimen “as-built” and with the various defects introduced. Results indicated that the drained-cavity design managed water penetration. No water was evident in the OSB or the stud cavities even though there was considerably more water behind the cladding. Water passed through the defects typical of those found in actual homes, and the drainage cavity directed that water out of the wall.

Homes should be monitored for possible moisture problems. Considerations include:

Windows – on wood windows look for peeling paint, a telltale sign of a moisture problem. If you see a gap where the sill and jamb of the window frame meet, it should be caulked with the window manufacturer’s recommended sealant.

Openings — wherever EIFS are installed and meet another material, for example window frames, doors, light fixtures, hose bibs, dryer vents, etc. they must be sealed appropriately. Check to make sure the existing sealant is soft and flexible.

Flashing — Good construction practices include flashing details that are installed so that water is directed out and away from the house.

Fire Shock Hazards (Electrical) – Suggestions & Tips #135

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fire shock hazards

It goes without saying, almost all electrical work that is done wrong are fire shock hazards waiting to happen, putting life & property at great risk.

When inspecting homes, it’s not uncommon for us to see electrical work that gets us shaking our heads. Often, someone is trying to take a shortcut to save money and or time. In the electrical world that can spell disaster. In both of these pictures, the cable sheathing for the wire was cut too short. Putting electrician’s tape over the wires (see right picture) is not a substitute for the cable sheathing. Having no cable clamp for wires (see left picture) also means the wires can get pulled out of the junction box.

If you’re contemplating doing work to your home that requires electrical upgrades, consult a licensed electrician and avoid fire shock hazards!

If you’re thinking of buying a home? Get it inspected!

Fishmouthing Shingles – Suggestions & Tips #116

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fishmouthing shingles

Fishmouthing shingles is a term given to curled shingles that have the appearance of the mouth of a fish. It typically occurs at the lower front tab edge or along the cut-out edge.

These imperfection may be more noticeable depending on the pitch of the roof. Sunlight and the colour of the shingles can also accentuate that look. It may not always affect the life of the shingle, chances of water / moisture penetration into the building or resulting wind damage it can.

Fishmouthing can be caused by nails or staples that raise up out of the roof sheathing; something under the shingle that likely shouldn’t be there; underlayment or felt on the roof sheathing not laying flat; and, shingles that are damaged or bent prior to their instalation.

Typically, this shingle condition is corrected by sealing / gluing the shingles flat or their replacement.

Flickering Lights? – Suggestions & Tips #136

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flickering lights

There can be a number of reasons you have flickering lights. Your lights might flicker and get brighter, dimmer or both may occur. The cause can depend on whether one light flickers, a group of lights on a particular circuit, all the lights in the house at the same time or perhaps your neighbours lights are doing this as well.

If it’s just one light fixture, it might be something as simple as a bad light bulb. In fact it might be a bad connection between the light bulb and its socket. If it’s a group of lights on a particular circuit, then it could be that connections are not tight.

They might flicker when a large appliance turns on like an air conditioner. This may be caused by the large draw of power when it kicks in.

If your neighbours lights are doing the same thing, it may be that you need to contact your local utility to source out if something is amiss at the street.

Naturally, all wire connections should be tight however a common cause of this is a loose neutral wire. With a neutral wire connection that is loose it can become very hot, overheat, and cause an arc, damage or even a fire. It can also be a shock hazard. Don’t ignore lights that flicker in your home…call a professional to get help.

 

Floors Doors & Stairs Out Of Whack – Suggestions & Tips #63

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floors doors & stairs

Noticed anything wrong with your floors doors & stairs?

Are your floors level? Are your door frames out of square? Are the treads on your staircase level? What about your windows do they open freely? Does the ridge line on your roof sag like the back of an old horse? These may be warning signs or symptoms of a larger problem.

If any of the these are present in your home / building it may be an indicator that:

  • your foundation has moved / settled
  • possible deflection in the support beams / floor joists
  • your support posts / columns have moved
  • an improper repair or modification has been made

Sometimes it’s worse in older homes but it can also be found in newer homes too. Some minor deflection (bend) is not uncommon as wood is an organic material and may move slightly over time. However when one of these is showing a significant deflection or a number of them are present it can be indicative of something more significant. If may be that you will require professionals to evaluate the matter to better ascertain what might be going on.

If you’re unsure why these conditions might be present with the floors doors & stairs in your home, get it inspected.

Foundations and Basements

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Foundations and basements are not synonymous however we group them as they are most commonly found together in our climate. The foundation wall rests on a footing and acts as the support the home carrying its weight below the frost line. It prevents the house from moving as a result soil movement acting as a retaining wall resisting lateral pressure from the soil. The basement on the other hand is merely the space created by the foundation walls. Other types of foundations include crawl space and slab on grade (monolithic, or, supported on a foundation for example).

The material used for foundation walls include stone, brick, block, concrete, and, wood. Piers, made from similar materials, rest on a footing below the frost line. Pile foundations on the other hand can be made from similar materials, or steel, and are driven into the ground. They are often used when the soil is poor at the upper layers.

Wet Basements — Perhaps one of the most important areas associated with an examination of the foundation include looking for signs of moisture/water penetration and the structure itself. Water penetration through a masonry foundation can ultimately deteriorate the foundation wall reducing its strength allowing movement in the wall itself. Generally, this can be a long and drawn out process.

Removing/reducing surface water by ensuring, proper exterior lot grading, and, that gutters and down spouts work properly and divert water at least 6 feet away from the home for example, may assist with water/moisture problems. Ground water on the other hand may require significant work such as water proofing the basement walls, sump pit and sump pump, drainage tiles, etc. Ensuring that sump pumps are working properly, that sump pits are clean, and, that weeping tiles are free of debris may assist in this regard as well. How do you clean weeping tiles? Sometimes you can clean them by forcing water through them with a power washer if they can gain access.

Many basements are known to have leaked at one time or another during their life span. It usually occurs on an intermittent basis, perhaps after a rain or as snow thaws. It may start soon after a rain or after longer heavier periods. Often water leaks are not a structural concern and can be controlled quite economically.


monitoring cracksCracks In Foundation Walls — are they alive or dead? That is, are they still moving? Movement often determines if there are further structural concerns with the crack as the damage itself is already present. To check for this try placing a vertical line on each side of the crack (see diagram) and measure the distance between the two lines over a period of time. Sometimes these cracks will open and close with the seasons or simply continue to open up/widen.

A crack in the foundation wall, uneven settling, and walls being out of plumb are just a few items which may indicate a problem.

Crawl Spaces — ventilation in crawl spaces is very important. Without proper ventilation damage, structural and/or otherwise, can occur from moisture.

A general rule of thumb is that a minimum of one square foot of venting should be provided for each 500 square feet of the crawl space. At least two vents should be used to maximize airflow. The vents should be located as high as possible to catch naturally occurring breezes. Increased ventilation for crawl spaces with dirt floors is recommended. Insulation and vapour barriers in the crawl space may also be a factor.

Venting of unheated crawl spaces should be provided at all times. This may be in conflict with maximizing the efficiency, and/or the operation, of any heating/cooling equipment contained within the crawl space. Crawlspaces that are heated should have air circulation / cold air returns, insulated walls / floors and appropriate vapour barriers. Vents for these areas should be open in the summer and closed in the winter.

Condensation — sometimes condensation can fool people into thinking they have a leaky basement. This moisture however can be caused by a number of things. Opening basement windows in the summer time is a classic way to get condensation occurring on cold water pipes or your cool foundation walls.  How? It’s created when warm humid air meets the cooler basement foundation walls. To check your foundation walls try taping a clear plastic sheet tightly to it. After a couple of days check it and you should be able to see if the moisture is accumulating on the outside or inside of the plastic. If it’s on the outside it’s condensation. If it’s on the inside you may have a leaking foundation wall.

Water/moisture can also promote mould, mildew and fungus growth — all it takes is a warm moist environment. CMHC has information contained within two booklets called “Cleaning Up Your House After a Flood” and “Clean-Up Procedures For Mould In Houses” that are good resources on this topic.

Tip: Keep basement windows and cold cellar vents closed in the summer to reduce condensation and the chance of mildew/mildew growth.

Freezing Water Pipes & Drain Traps – Suggestions & Tips #96

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freezing water pipes

Freezing water pipes and drain traps can not only cause water damage but flood in your basement / crawlspace and costly to remedy, not to mention the great inconvenience when those pipes burst.

So here are some things you should do if you haven’t already:

  • disconnect your garden hoses from your outside faucets
  • if you have frost-free sillcock (i.e. a water faucet / hose bib) with a vacuum break installed with a downward pitch to the exterior you should be okay, but if there’s an interior shut off valve, why not turn it off too
  • if you have regular sillcocks, turn off the interior shut off valve to it and open the exterior faucet and bleeder valve to allow it to drain.

Ensure all your exterior water supply lines, drain traps and the likes are protected from freezing to prevent the pipe from bursting and causing any water damage to your home as well as the cost of all the water spilled if you are not at home during the burst. Don’t forget about any water supply lines in an unheated garage either.

Play it safe, be prepared and protect your water lines from freezing.

Frost in Your Attic? – Suggestions & Tips #138

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frost in attic

We’ve talked about mould in your attic, and one source of water for its growth can be frost or what is sometime referred to as hoar frost. If you have frost in your attic, take note.

This occurs when there high humidity / moisture levels in the attic freeze (e.g. from roof leaks, ice dams, plumbing) or condensation forms from warm moist air meeting cold attic surfaces that turn to frost (e.g. from heat loss from the home, made worse with poor attic insulation and ventilation).

Attic frost is not a good thing. Just think…as the ice / frost thaws and refreezes what damage will it cause to building materials. Then, when it eventually melts in the spring, where will all that water go and what damage will it cause…aside from its ability to grow mould. It’s important to make efforts to decrease the chances of frost from occurring in the first place. This frost build up can be made worse with insufficient insulation, poor ventilation and or no vapour barriers, or vapour barriers with are not sealed. This allows heat loss from the home. Sometimes, kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans aren’t vented to the exterior of the home.

Unsure what’s going on in your attic? Get it inspected!

Fuel Oil Storage Tanks

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The failures of oil tanks, used for home heating, are on the rise. Why? Coal use to be the dominant means of home heating prior to oil. Coal was also the fuel used by industries to produce heat and steam. But during the 1930’s, fuel oil for furnaces started to become more commonplace as the coal units were converted. Today, a fuel oil storage tank is at least 80 years old and those installed during the building boom of the 1950’s & 1960’s would be approaching 70 years in age. That means they’re likely in need of replacement. Even tanks 25 years old or younger may need replacement too. This has become a very big issue for homeowners but the same holds true for farmers and other property owners too…and it’s not just oil tanks, it’s all fuel storage tanks.

The problem? — Many of the oil tanks are corroding from the inside out, where the failure is not readily visible. This often occurs from condensation that builds up inside the tank. Since oil is lighter than water, the water goes to the bottom of the tank where they rust / corrode. The first sign of a bad tank could be an odour of oil in the air. There might be rust or corrosion where the legs are welded to the tank. It could be the fuel filter that begins to leak or nozzle plugging that could be a symptom. If they do leak, an oil spill in your basement can be a smelly and messy clean up. If it finds its way into a sump pump or floor drain though, it will undoubtedly make it a very expensive clean up, especially if it gets into wells or ground water systems. If it’s an outside storage tank, where rust and corrosion are more common, a spill can contaminate the soil or make its way into nearby streams or rivers. Buried oil tanks are even a greater problem.

Monitoring and regular inspections of existing fuel storage tanks is a must. Replacement of existing tanks with corrosion resistant ones or ensuring the tanks are located within confinement areas is another possible solution. You can purchase a sensor for your oil tank that will alarm you when it begins to leak.

Some Canadian insurance companies are restricting / limiting coverage or not providing coverage at all to homeowners with fuel storage tanks.

Did you know? — If you own a fuel tank on your property you have a legal responsibility to properly maintain it and to clean up any spills or leaks that may occur. Compensation resulting from damage to your property (or anyone else’s for that matter) as a result of an oil spill can be costly and you likely are not be fully covered for it under your homeowners’ insurance policy. In fact, Now some Canadian insurance companies are restricting / limiting coverage or not providing coverage at all to homeowners with fuel storage tanks.

How can you reduce your chances of an oil spill?

  1. Have new tanks installed by a registered contractor. Inspecting it regularly can help you avoid the problems associated with oil spills and leakage. Homeowners are required to ensure their tanks are approved, that is, that they fulfill minimum requirements to avoid tank failure. All basement and aboveground tanks should be accessible for inspection.
  2. For existing basement and above-ground tanks (a) inspect your tank for leaks at least once every year (b) replace your tank if it is more than 30 years old or if you are unsure of its age (c) empty any unused tanks.
  3. For existing underground tanks it is recommended that you replace your underground tank with an above-ground tank to allow for easier detection of problems. If your tank is underground (a) hire a registered contractor to inspect your tank for leaks at least once a year (b) empty unused tanks (c) if your underground tank has not been used for two or more years or you no longer intend to use it, you are legally required to remove it and also remove any contaminated soil.

Fuel Oil Storage Tanks – Suggestions & Tips #44

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fuel oil storage tank

Depending on where you live, all fuel oil storage tanks must be inspected before filled unless an inspection was done in the last 10 years.

The concern with these tanks is they corrode from the inside out, where the failure is not readily visible. This often occurs from condensation that builds up inside the tank. Since oil is lighter than water, the water goes to the bottom of the tank where they rust / corrode. Ultimately, when they fail there is an hazardous oil spill.

Governments and insurance companies have grave concerns relating to oil tanks and the possibility of leaks / spills. The responsibility for any leak / spill rests with the owner.

Some insurance companies in Canada are not insuring homes with oil tanks, older tanks or requiring additional insurance premiums, special inspections by others and or improvements, upgrades or removal of the tanks themselves.

Underground storage tanks (UST) pose additional concerns with possible soil contamination and increased removal / remediation costs.

If you own a home with a fuel oil storage tank or are about to buy or sell a home with one, do your homework as to what the requirements are and how it might impact the purchase, sale or ownership of your home.

Click here for more information on fuel storage tanks.

Furnace Filter Types & Ratings – Suggestions & Tips #166

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furnace filter types & ratings

It’s safe to say that most homeowners don’t pay as much attention to their furnace and air conditioner as they should. Of course, to keep it working efficiently and minimize energy costs there are some simple things you can do, including changing / cleaning your furnace filter on a regular basis … during both the heating & cooling season.

To complicate matters, there are a tremendous number of different filters to choose from. Getting the wrong one could cause damage to your heating / cooling system or cause it to wear out prematurely. Yes, furnace filters can help improve your indoor air quality too but they are designed first and foremost to keep your furnace fan and its components clean.

Filter Ratings

While there are different rating systems in the marketplace for filters, the minimum efficiency reporting value (MERV) is the most common. Not surprisingly, the higher the MERV rating is the better the filter is at removing particulate from the air. But it’s more complicated than that.

While a lower MERV rated filter is less efficient in scrubbing the air clean, it lets more air to pass through it and making it easier for your furnace to operate. On the other hand, those filters with the higher MERV ratings allow less air flow and can cause your furnace to work harder and longer. Since those higher MERV rated filters trap more, they need to be checked more often (try monthly at first) and will likely need to be changed more frequently as they get covered with particulate faster and can clog, restricting air flow. To assist at improving air flow, the higher rated MERV filters are pleated which creates more surface area for air to flow … and to trap more particulate. So, the bottom line is you need to have the perfect mix of air flow and MERV rating for your needs and that of your furnace / air conditioner.

MERV Common particulate trapped by filter
1–4 Pollen, dust mites, sanding dust, spray paint dust, textile / carpet fibers, cockroach debris
5–8 Mold, spores, dust mite debris, pet dander, hair spray, fabric protector, cement dust, pudding mix, powdered milk
9–12 Humidifier dust, lead dust, milled flour, auto emission particulates, Legionella, nebulizer droplets
13–16 Bacteria, droplet nuclei (sneeze), cooking oil, most tobacco smoke and insecticide dust, most face powder, most paint pigments
17–20 Virus, carbon dust, sea salt, smoke

NOTE: Check the manual for your furnace, or contact the manufacturer or a licensed heating contractor, to ascertain what size and maximum MERV rating your make / model of furnace can handle. If your furnace uses a custom sized filter, replacements will likely be more costly and harder to find.

Types of Filters

While there are a number of different types of filters on the market, here are a few of the more common filter types:

MERV 2-3  disposable fibreglass Disposable fiberglass panel – inexpensive filter made using spun fiberglass. It has a low MERV rating and traps only larger debris from clogging up your system and does little if anything to improve your indoor air quality.
MERV 5-8  disposable pleated Disposable pleated – this popular MERV rated filter is relatively inexpensive, made from polyester or cotton paper, can remove some small particles like mold, spores, mites and pet dander.
MERV 8-11  disposable electrostatic Disposable electrostatic – contains self-charging electrostatic cotton or paper fibers, is relatively inexpensive, typically has a higher MERV rating than its permanent version and is designed to attract & trap small particulate.
MERV 8-11  permanent electrostatic Permanent reusable electrostatic – similar to the disposable version but with a lower MERV typically, self-charging cotton fibers attract particulate, but has a removable washable filter that can be used for five years or so if cleaned / maintained properly at least every 90 days.
MERV 14-16  high efficiency pleated box High-efficiency pleated box – these higher MERV filters are 4” to 5″ thick and made from pleated synthetic cotton. They are more costly than other disposable & non-permanent / washable filters, but designed to trap smaller particulate.

Cleaning / Replacing Furnace Filters

  • Ensure you turn off the power supply to the furnace before changing / cleaning your filter.
  • Vacuum inside the furnace cabinet by the filter opening and blower / fan as well as around the outside of the furnace before replacing the filter.
  • Vacuum washable / reusable filters before washing them.
  • Filters have an arrow on them indicating the direction of airflow. The arrow needs to face the furnace side towards the fan / blower compartment when replacing it to ensure its proper operation.
  • Once you have your filter replaced turn the power supply to your furnace back on.
  • Check your filter monthly
  • Clean your reusable / washable filter every 90 days or as needed.
  • Replace your disposable filter every 90 days or as needed.

NOTE: Do not clean or change your furnace filter unless you are completely familiar with your furnace and comfortable in doing so, otherwise contact a licensed heating contractor for assistance.

Furnace Filters – Suggestions & Tips #87

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furnace filters

In the winter heating season, furnace filters get dirty, trap particles and need to be changed regularly. The same holds true in the summer for cooling season too!

When these filters get dirty it increases resistance and reduces airflow. That means the your furnace and air conditioner will have to work longer and harder to pull air through the cold air return duct to heat or cool the house. That wears out your heating / cooling systems, decreases their efficiency and increases energy costs. So before that occurs, it’s time to change the filter with one recommend by the manufacturer.

How often will depend on how dirty the air is, the size of your filter, if you have furry pets, etc. With a clean filter your heating & cooling systems will run more efficiently, last longer, reduce energy costs & save you money.

Of course, how well these filters work depends on filter types & ratings. As a result, you’ll need to choose wisely.

Further Inspections – Suggestions & Tips #43

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There are many areas that are not within the scope of a building inspection that often relate to the overall condition of a property. Further inspections may be required by other parties, such as the Fire Marshall’s Office or the Electrical Safety Authority. Commonly these are required for houses with basement apartments, rental income and commercial properties. These inspections relate to fire alarms, smoke detectors, carbon monoxide (CO) detectors, automatic door closers, fire separation, sprinklers / fire suppression systems, properly functioning inter-connected electric smoke alarms and any outstanding work orders related to this.

Contact your local Municipality to ascertain that the property zoned is properly for its intended use. If there are elevators in the building obtain details about the date of the last inspection by a licensed elevator company and any outstanding work orders. A building inspection is a must, but you may need help from others too.

Fuses & Electrical Panels

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Nowadays there are more circuit breakers and panels in use than ever. This is true not only with new homes but older homes too. Naturally homeowners like to keep pace with the evolution of more and more household appliances, computers and gadgets. In some older homes though the homeowner may be unaware or unable to upgrade the electrical system and as a result be stuck with the limitations of the system. If the decision is made to  “keep up with the times” from an appliance standpoint then they should be forewarned to match their needs with the electrical service too. The dangers of not doing this can result in not only frustrations by the homeowner but over fusing certain circuits. Although this can happen with circuit breakers it is more frequent in fuse panels. This likely occurs as the system has insufficient expansion capacity and often as a short cut too many items end up, for example, on a 15 amp circuit. To combat this the dangerous practice of putting in higher amp fuses, and yes sometimes a penny, are used to allow all the appliances to work. The results can be devastating as that the gauge of the electrical wire used is only capable of handling 15 amps. Consequently it can over heat, fail, or worse yet start a fire. Although there are exceptions, generally there should only be 15 amp fuses or breakers in a home. Other common types/sizes would include, for example, a 40 amp fuse/breaker for a stove and a 30 amp breaker for a dryer. Electric baseboard heaters often take 20 amps. Sometimes separate circuits will be required for certain appliances, for example, a microwave. If you are not sure about your system it should be checked.

Tip: Some insurance companies are now refusing to provide homeowner’s insurance on houses with this type of electrical panel.

Galvanized Plumbing

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As the name infers, galvanized plumbing products were used in attempts to reduce or inhibit rusting. And that it does. However these pipes are not rust proof.

Galvanized pipes are usually found in homes built pre-1950. Commonly, these pipes will rust from the inside out. The pipes can corrode at any time however this rust accumulates over decades. Sometimes if the water is not in use and then turned on you can see that the water is brownish in colour or that fixtures have become rust stained.

Although the water pressure can be reduced the volume of water is often restricted too from the rusting. This occurs as a result of the pipe rusting on its interior and becoming smaller and smaller over time. Eventually the pipe becomes blocked or worse yet bursts. Ultimately these pipes must be replaced as they have a life span of about 50 years.

Tip: Some insurance companies are now refusing to provide homeowner’s insurance on houses with this type of plumbing.

Garage Door Openers – Suggestions & Tips #39

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garage door opener

Garage door openers are a great convenience, but come with significant responsibilities too.

Children have been trapped and killed under automatic garage doors, or suffered serious injuries when the closing door failed to stop & reverse its direction. Garage door openers that don’t automatically reverse should be repaired or replaced with new reversing units to prevent this. Older openers may only stop when the door strikes an object. Others may be designed to reverse if it strikes an object, but don’t. Generally these openers cannot be adjusted or repaired to provide the automatic reversing feature found on newer devices, such as an electric eye. Once a garage door is operating properly (when disconnected from the opener), the opener should be checked to ensure it’s force & limit settings are adjusted according to manufacturer’s instructions. If the door does not reverse properly it should be disengaged and adjusted according to the manufacturers specifications, repaired or replaced with a new garage door opener.

Garage doors and the operation of its automatic door opener should be verified regularly to ensure it is functioning as intended.  Keep the garage door opener wall switch as high as practical above the floor in an effort to restrict children’s use of it. Keep all remote control devices for the garage door opener locked in the car / away from children. Parents should also tell their children about the potential hazard. Hire a qualified professional contractor if you are not comfortable with performing these tests, repairs and adjustments.

Gas Logs – Suggestions & Tips #118

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gas logs

If you own or are about to buy a home with gas logs, there are some things you need to know.

Vented gas logs are a less expensive option to factory built zero-clearance units (typically installed during renovation / construction against walls where there is no existing fireplace) or free-standing gas fireplaces (which resemble some wood-burning stoves), but are problematic. All of these units feature simulated artificial logs and a gas burner inside a firebox and sometimes a ceramic or tempered glass front that allows you to view the flame.

The gas logs however are mounted over gas burners that are installed directly in an existing vented wood fireplace. These gas logs are very inefficient, don’t produce much heat in the room and pose a number of potential problems, including spillage of combustion gases into the home, such as dangerous Carbon Monoxide (CO). Further, the glass fronts can become very hot and burn, for example, children / infants.

They are not recommended for well-insulated, air-tight homes in Canada.

Click here to view more information on carbon monoxide.

Ghosting & Soot Staining – Suggestions & Tips #11

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ghosting & soot stainingWhat? No we’re not talking about haunted houses or chimney cleaning. Although one might think this is about a paranormal event, ghosting & soot staining relates to a phenomenon of another kind!

It refers to streak-like markings (often referred to as ghosting) that can occur at interior stud locations on outside walls or where rafters / trusses are on vaulted / sloped ceilings. These streak-like markings may be as a result of soot (carbon), mould or dirt that collects there, as these locations are cooler (and “wetter”) than the adjacent insulated cavities. Because they are cooler, micro-condensation forms on the cold surface when heat reaches those locations. The resulting thermal telegraphing (or ghosting) occurs when particulate in the air such as dirt or soot (carbon) are deposited on those cooler surface locations.

Soot (carbon) staining can also occur along the perimeter of carpeted floors, in part because there is not a good air seal between the wall-floor juncture. Not all staining however may be caused by soot, as dust or dirt causes most marks on carpets and will wash out quite easily. Black carbon soot stains on the other hand are often permanent. Because the staining is dark by nature it’s most evident on light coloured carpets.

Ghosting or staining caused by carbon soot can come from inside or outside the house. Sources can include:

  • candles
  • automobile / airplane exhaust
  • leaking combustion from fossil fuel appliances e.g. gas furnace, gas hot water heater, gas fireplace.

Carpets can act as filters for airborne particles. For example, if a door to a room is usually kept closed, pressure from a heat supply register in the room can force air underneath the door and trap particles in carpet fibres.

If you think you are experiencing ghosting or soot (carbon) staining, professional advice from an indoor air quality expert or licensed heating contractor to ascertain there is no spillage from gas appliances or sources detrimental to your health and safety is recommended.

Green Building / Net Zero – Suggestions & Tips #30

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green building net zero

Have you heard of the green building terms “Net-Zero” or “Near Zero” homes?It refers to homes with zero net energy consumption, zero carbon emissions and can be independent from the energy supply grid.

Energy that’s harvested on-site from solar & wind technology, along with extremely efficient heating / cooling systems and lighting, help to achieve “net zero”. A home that produces surplus energy may be able to sell it back to a local utility. Design & construction of a new or retrofit net-zero home is key, as well as using energy-efficient building materials.

Zero-energy homes have significant energy-saving features which may include, among other techniques:

  • passive solar heat gain & shading
  • natural conditioning from the earth
  • added insulation
  • high-efficiency windows
  • natural lighting & ventilation
  • energy & water conservation
  • solar panels
  • wind turbines
  • drain water heat recovery
  • heat recovery ventilation
  • programmable thermostats

Of course, energy use does vary widely with the home’s occupants, as does acceptable levels of comfort. For more information about current green building energy incentives, check Energy Star. Learn more about a sustainable housing initiative led by Canada Mortgage & Housing Corporation (CMHC) at EQuilibrium™ and green home building at Green Building Advisor.

Grounding Clamps for Electrical Systems – Suggestions & Tips #152

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Grounding clamps

Grounding clamps for electrical systems play an importance role in providing a pathway for voltage to flow to earth should there be an electrical problem.  The importance of a good grounding system cannot be stressed enough.

Commonly we see a multi-strand copper wire leading from the main electrical panel to a clamp on the main incoming water supply to ground the plumbing. Similarly, the gas line is bonded to the grounding system with this type of clamp and wire too. Unfortunately, the grounding clamps can rust / corrode overtime or simply loosen. As a result, they not longer provide the intended protection.

While the fix may seem simple enough for a DIYer, it cannot be stressed enough that this is not a homeowner fix-it job however, given that stray voltage can be carried on that ground wire. This shock hazard could be fatal

Protect yourself…get it inspected!

Harvesting The Rain – Suggestions & Tips #114

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harvesting the rain

Harvesting the rain can save on your water bills and provide natures own untreated city water to plants. It’s can also be a lot of fun!

There are many ways to accomplish this, the most common perhaps is by using rain barrels or a cistern, but there are others. For example, reducing paved or impermeable surfaces on your property is one way, or capturing the rain via catch basins that runoff from them.  Mulch basins, having trenches, built-up soil or terracing can direct also water to needed plant materials & trees rather than going down a storm drain. Be mindful however to keep all water away from your foundation.

Check out this publication from Canada Mortgage & Housing (CMHC) on Collecting & Using Rainwater at Home.

Healthier Indoor Air Quality

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We continue to talk about the quality of life and it starts with the air that we breathe. Indoor air is by far more polluted than the air we breathe outdoors. So, it just makes sense to ensure we do everything possible to improve what we take into our lungs when we’re inside whether it’s our home or office. Some signs of potential problems include:

  • Odours, stale or stuffy air
  • Unvented fossil fuel appliances
  • Lack of ventilation, air tight homes
  • Presence of mould or mildew
  • High humidity
  • Poorly maintained central heating or cooling systems
  • Feeling better outdoors or away from your home or office. The absence of flu-like symptoms.
  • Feeling worse after remodelling or purchasing new furniture, moving into a new home, “winterizing” your home

Common sources of these indoor air quality concerns are:

Moisture, Moulds & Dust Mites – sources can include excessive humidity, drain pans of humidifiers and air conditioners, poor ventilation, animal dander.

Combustion Products – sources can include unvented fossil fuel appliances like kerosene heaters or stoves, back drafting of furnaces and water heaters. By-products of fossil fuel combustion can include Carbon Monoxide, Carbon Dioxide, Formaldehyde, Nitrogen Dioxide, and, Sulphur Dioxide.

Formaldehyde – particleboard, carpets, textiles, furniture, insulation and adhesives.

Asbestos – pipe insulation, mud elbows, fireproofing materials, acoustical tiles, floor tiles, and, siding.

Radon – radioactive gas from the decay of uranium on the soil and rock in and around the foundation, well water, some building materials.

Building & Household Materials – VOC’s (volatile organic compounds) found in paint, solvents, dry cleaning, aerosol sprays, adhesives, room deodorizers

Lead – sources include dinnerware, mini blinds, toys, paint, dust, soil, food cans, antiques, furniture, solder, and, well water. Most recently there have been recalls of baby soothers and toys that have also prompted concerns for pet owners too.

What should you do if you suspect a problem with your indoor air? Inexpensive testing can be done to ascertain the presence of many of these indoor air contaminants.

Heat Loss – Suggestions & Tips #134

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heat loss

Winter is a great time of year to check your home for heat loss…and it may be easier than you think.

One common area to actually see heat loss during the wintertime is on your roof. If you see snow melting on your roof or icicles forming at the eaves despite the relentless freezing weather, chances are you’ve got it. That means heating $$$ are leaving the house and decreasing your chances of energy savings. It can also damage your home for example if ice damning occurs. The good news is that heat loss can often be controlled economically with additional insulation, ventilation or both. This assumes of course that any holes into the attic are sealed up.

Not sure if you have heat loss? Call us to find out.

 

Heat Pumps

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It’s important to understand some of the differences between various types of heat pumps and air conditioning units.

Heat pumps are designed to warm in winter and cool in summer. In winter, they only warm to a certain extent and are backed up, for example, by a forced air gas furnace. Many of the heat pumps in use today are fuelled by electricity and have an efficiency rating about 3 times higher than natural gas. Consequently, people have chosen to disable the unit for warming and use it solely for cooling.

There are three basic types of heat pumps — Air Source, Water Source, and, Ground Source.

Air Source — Most of the heat pumps in use today are Air Source. As its name implies the outside air is utilized to draw heat from during the heating season and ejects heat outside during the cooling season. There are two types of Air Source heat pumps.

a) Air to Air — takes heat from outside air and transfers to the interior or exterior of the home depending on the season. This is the most common of all heat pump types.

b) Air to Water — takes heat from outside air and transfers it to water in a hydronic heat distribution system. In cooling season it takes heat from hydronic distribution system and ejects it outside the home.

Although conceptually, or theoretically, Air Source heat pumps are a great idea the operating costs are very high as it is fuelled by electricity for cooling and heating (in temperatures above freezing). They are largely thought to be gimmicky when compared to the efficiency of other types of cooling systems.

With Air Source heat pumps the heat exchanger is located inside the house with the compressor located outside the house.

  • Models — forced-air
  • Advantages — least costly to purchase
  • Disadvantages — costly to operate, electric heat,

Water Source — This is referred to as an “open” system as the water is drawn up through a well directly to a heat exchanger where the heat is obtained. The water is then discharged back to an above ground body of water or to a separate well. It uses water as its source of heat in the winter and water as a method of cooling the heat removed from a house in the summer.

These units can be designed to have either a heating only, heating with passive cooling or heating with active cooling. The heat pump is typically located within the house.

Tip: When considering a central air conditioning unit, over a heat pump, a Water Source heat pump can be a better choice in certain circumstances.

  • Models — forced-air or hydronic
  • Advantages — highest efficiency
  • Disadvantages — requires more maintenance

Ground Source — This is referred to as a “closed-loop” system. It collects heat from a continuous loop of piping buried in the ground in winter. In summer, the pipes in the ground absorb heat thereby acting as cooling system.

These units can be designed to have either heating only, heating with passive cooling, or, heating with active cooling. The heat pump is typically located within the house.

  • Models — forced-air or hydronic
  • Advantages — dependable
  • Disadvantages — costly to install, landscape concerns

Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) – Suggestions & Tips #50

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heat recovery ventilator

Which is it you need in your home: a HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) or ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator)? Most people do not realize that there is a difference. You need the correct one to have the proper impact in your home.

A Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) draws fresh air into a home over a core while exhausting the home’s stale air. It allows for the transfer of heat from the warm air (stale winter house air, or fresh outdoor summer air) to the cooler air. That is, it recovers heat that would have otherwise been exhausted making it quite efficient…however there is some energy loss in the process.

An Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV) on the other hand does the same but it also allows for the transfer of moisture from the more humid stale winter air (or the fresh summer air) to the dryer air.

So, a Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) is better at reducing humidity in the home, while an Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV) tends to retain humidity and is thought to be better suited for more air tight homes and or homes with little / no humidity issues.

Do your homework before installation so you have the right product for your needs.

Heating Dollars & Sense

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Since January 1, 1992 the minimum AFUE rating for forced air gas furnaces in Ontario has been 78%, making all furnaces installed after that date mid or high-efficiency. Having energy efficient furnaces is a great plan, but what are the differences between mid and high?

The Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) percentage efficiency ratings are as follows:

Forced Air (gas/oil)
Conventional:    55% to 60%
Mid-efficiency:    80% to 84%
High efficiency:    85% to 90%

Boiler (gas/oil)
Conventional:    55% to 60%
Mid-efficiency:    85%
High efficiency:    90%

Electric – are 100% efficient (although creation of electricity through fossil fuels is about 40% efficient making electricity the most expensive “fuel”).

Comparing Fuels and Efficiencies – each fuel used costs a different amount and yields a different amount of heat (Btu). In order to properly compare therefore, you must do a calculation of the cost per Btu. That calculation of Cost per Btu = (100 X P) divided by (F X AFUE), where:

  • F = Btu content of a unit of fuel
  • P = Price per unit of fuel (dollars)
  • AFUE = Annual fuel utilization efficiency (%)

Mid-Efficiency versus High-Efficiency? – check twice before you buy. A general rule of thumb is that you need about a 2,000 square foot home to get your pay back from a high-efficiency unit.

Increasing the efficiency of your furnace doesn’t always equate to instant savings. For example, if you increase the efficiency of a your furnace from a mid-efficiency at 84% AFUE to a high efficiency at 92% AFUE your percentage savings on fuel is 8.6% (12% (92-84) divided by 92%) a year. While a nice savings, this must be compared with the increased purchase price and maintenance costs if any of a high-efficiency unit. If you spent $600 in fuel with the mid-efficiency unit then you’ll save $52 (8.6% X $600) a year in fuel switching to high-efficiency. If the unit costs $500 more it would take about 10 years ($500 divided by $52) to re-coup your costs or before you’d start to save.

A high-efficiency unit is not unlike a finely tuned racing car. For best performance, regular maintenance (tune-ups) is required which can be more costly than non-high performance units. This, coupled with higher costing parts and labour to repair same, may defer or increase the pay-back period as well.

Heating Systems

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There are many different types of heating systems available today. There are also combination units such as wood/gas, wood/electric, oil/electric, oil/wood, etc.

In Ontario, forced air gas furnaces are the most common. These heating systems also come in varying efficiencies including conventional (naturally aspirated), mid and high.

Some Common Types of Heating Systems

Forced Air — system makes heat by clean combustion of gas or oil (electric used also), distributed by a blower, through supply and return ducts.

Steam — system makes steam in oil or gas boiler, circulates through loops of pipes to distribute heat to various zones.

Hot Water — system heats water in gas or oil boiler, circulates heat through insulated pipes to room radiators, condensed in radiator, giving up its heat in vaporization, condensed water then runs back to boiler for re-heating.

Radiant — system makes heat with electric resistant baseboards and radiant ceiling panels. Other forms of radiant heat include hot water heat in the floor or ceiling.

Venting & Flue Pipes – Venting is required on heating systems to exhaust combustion gases from such fuels as gas and oil. There are different methods of accomplishing this with varying types of flue pipes. It is these pipes that vent harmful combustion gases outside. Different metal flue pipes are used in different applications. As a result, each has a specific distance it must be from combustible products. Clay and metal chimney liners are also used within masonry chimneys. Even in induced draft furnaces (e.g. mid-efficiency) flue gases are about 300 F.

In the past, conventional furnace were vented by keeping exhaust gases hot enough that condensation does not form thereby damaging chimneys, flues, or worse yet, the heat exchanger. Condensing furnaces (e.g. high-efficiency units), where exhaust gases are cooler (about 100 F to 150 F) thereby producing condensation in the process, can vent through an exterior wall using a “plastic” vent pipe and induced draft fan. This condensation is somewhat acidic and would likely corrode conventional heat exchangers over time. Now, stainless steel heat exchangers are used to combat this however it can increase the cost of the unit. As considerable condensate can collect (about a litre during a half hour of operation) it is important to make sure it is drained.
High-efficiency units can get their combustion air supply from within the home however due to indoor air pollutants it is recommended that the supply come from outside. When this is done the system is referred to as a direct vent or sealed (from indoor air) combustion units.

Burners – With gas the flame colour should be blue and with oil the flame should be orange. A yellow to orange coloured gas flame may indicate a cracked heat exchanger, improper combustion, poor flame adjustment, etc. Dust particles in the air can cause a blue gas flame to turn yellow. If the humidifier is running and water in the area is soft the gas flame could be orange.

Many of the conventional units in use today have pilot lights. Over time these units are being replaced by electronic ignition.

Heat Exchanger – A metal chamber, called a heat exchanger, is the “heart” of the furnace. It separates air being heated from the burning fuel. Most, if not all, of the heat exchanger is not visible during a home inspection. Typically, dismantling of the furnace is required for inspection.

A heat exchanger that indicates signs, or raises suspicions, of failure may have certain health/safety concerns such as allowing Carbon Monoxide (CO) to enter the home. Although heat exchanger replacement may be possible in rare cases, the more common and costly approach is to replace the furnace itself.

Draft Units – Oil furnaces have draft inducing elements as well as some gas units. Oil units have this “barometric damper” on or near the flue pipe. Gas units usually have a draft hood at the point the flue exits the furnace housing.

There should be no outward flow of hot exhaust gases from these drafts, if so, dangerous gases are likely not being properly vented.

Supply & Return Ducts – Forced air systems must be balanced in order to work. As the system must be able to supply heat then it must have return cold air ducts from which it can draw air. As a result, supply air then must be balanced with incoming air. Too much supply and little return air (or vice versa) will tax the system yielding an overworked and inefficient system. Moreover, comfort levels must be maximized which means that room air circulation and balancing of ducts (using dampers) to each room is important as well. A rule of thumb is that the return air grill must be at least as large as the supply register.

Cold air return ducts should not be located within 6 feet of the furnace to prevent back drafting.

Safety Controls – No heating system is complete with out safety controls. Some heating units have “sniffers” to detect harmful gases.

Forced Air – Aside from the thermostat there are two basic controls. 1) A high temperature limit switch (measured by air temperature). 2) A fan control (which lowers the temperature by blowing off built-up warm air in the heat exchanger).

Steam – Aside from the low water cut-off and a water-level gauge, there are two basic controls. A high temperature limit switch (shuts down burner when pressure in boiler exceeds a predetermined setting) and pressure relief valve (usually discharges at around 15 psi).

Hot Water – As with a Steam system the relief valve will discharge water at a predetermined pressure (usually about 30 psi).

Fuel Controls – Both gas and oil units have controls to stop the flow of fuel to the burner. Gas units use a thermocouple that closes the flow of gas. Oil units should have firomatic safety valves, which shut down if there is a system malfunction (should be three — one on the fuel tank, one on the oil burner, and one over the unit itself).

Blower/Blower motor – An often over looked area is the high velocity fan (blower). It can account for about 30% of the operating efficiency of a conventional forced air system. If dirty, the blower and motor will have to work longer/harder. If the blower is belt driven it should be checked for tightness, alignment, and, wear.

Filters – Used with forced air systems, can be disposable, reusable, or, permanent.

Disposable filters (least expensive) should be replaced often (monthly) during heating and cooling seasons (if central cooling system used). For the most part, those one inch thick disposal filters don’t do much to filter the air.

Reusable filters (higher one-time cost than disposable) must be cleaned often (monthly) during the same period.

Permanent filters (most expensive) include electronic air cleaners. In order for them to work properly they should be cleaned every time they get dirty which could be weekly or monthly.

Other filters include HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) which do a great job removing most harmful indoor air pollutants. Certain wet style filters (a metal mesh filter and spray-on adhesive) work well to trap air borne particles too. There are also charcoal pre-filters that can be used as well to remove, for example, odours in the indoor air.

Other Types of Heating & Fuels – There are literally hundreds of different types of heating systems including space or portable heaters, fireplaces, wood stoves, heat pumps, and solar heating.

There are varying fuels types also which we haven’t talked about. They include propane and solid fuels like wood, coal, and, pellets.

Thermostats – are used for calling for heat from the system. Depending on the system configuration, multiple thermostats can be used for “zone” control and can be an effective and efficient way to heat your home.

The location of the thermostat also plays a crucial role in calling for heat. Locating a thermostat on an outside wall or next to a fireplace will yield poor results.

Standard thermostats should be checked against another thermometer for accuracy, kept clean and free of debris. It must also be level so that the mercury bulb inside it can call for heat appropriately.

Programmable thermostats can assist with reducing energy consumption by ensuring the temperature is set back, for example, when you are out or heat is not required.

Advantages & Disadvantages of Heating System Types

Forced Air

Advantages

  • low installation & maintenance
  • cool air is warmed quickly
  • can use duct work to cool, humidify, dehumidify, clean
  • components don’t freeze in cold weather
  • repairs costs low (no plumber required)

Disadvantages

  • filters and ducts require cleaning
  • space required around furnace for servicing, bulky, hard to conceal ducts
  • faulty heat exchanger can cause combustion products to enter home
  • balancing system/air flow to rooms difficult
  • less heat the further you are from source, unit can be noisy

Hot Water

Advantages

  • low maintenance, quiet, clean operation
  • takes up less space than forced air systems
  • even temperature distribution, can thermostat/zone each room
  • convectors remain warm for considerable time after heated up
  • can be used with many fuel systems

Disadvantages

  • more expensive installation than forced air
  • hot water responds slowly to cool house
  • expensive to add cooling, humidify air, replace pump
  • water pipes can corrode, leak, pipes can be noisy when expand/contract
  • baseboard convectors can get in the way

Electric

Advantages

  • no chimney required as no combustion products
  • inexpensive to install, freedom from pipes and ducts
  • takes up little space, quiet, low maintenance
  • can thermostat/zone each room

Disadvantages

  • highest operating cost, larger main electrical supply required
  • poorer thermostats can result in higher heating bills
  • slower to respond to sudden temperature drops
  • expensive to add cooling, humidify air

Radiant

Advantages

  • efficient in small spaces
  • quiet
  • can thermostat/zone each room
  • takes little space as no mechanical room, ducts, baseboards
  • room contents warmed by radiant

Disadvantages

  • repair bills can be high if panels damaged
  • can be difficult to add ceiling fixtures
  • hot water radiant often more expensive than electric
  • slow to respond
  • special ceiling, floor or wall preparations required

Holiday Safety – Suggestions & Tips #53

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With friends & loved ones so close by at this busy time of year, we hope you’ll find these tips helpful…

  • Don’t leave candles or fires unattended.
  • Use sturdy candle holders that won’t tip.
  • Use secured safety screens on your fireplace front.
  • Clean & inspect your chimney annually.
  • Make sure wood smoke does not come into the room.
  • Keep children & pets away from hot surfaces like wood stoves, glass fireplace fronts, cook tops, ovens and the likes.
  • Snuff out candles & put fires out before going to bed / leaving your home.
  • Keep fire / candles away from children, pets and combustible materials.
  • Keep matches, lighters and the likes away from children.
  • Ensure children are always supervised around candles and fires
  • If buying a real tree make sure it’s fresh, water daily & store it in a cool place until ready for decorating. Secure the tree well, use a sturdy stand & dispose of tree after holidays or if needles start to fall.
  • Only use lights & extension cords that are CSA, ULC or cUL certified discarding any that are frayed, have exposed wires, loose connections or broken light sockets.
  • Don’t use indoor lights outside.
  • Don’t run electrical cords through doorways / under carpets.
  • Don’t overload electrical outlets.
  • Turn off all holiday lights before you go to bed or leave your home.
  • Have a planned escape route(s) from your home in the event of an emergency like a fire. Know how you will escape from a second floor or basement. Determine how best to evacuate your pets. Hold practice drills for the entire family.
  • Keep a first aid kit at the ready.
  • Remove wrapping paper and clutter from your home that could catch fire.
  • Make sure you have enough fire extinguishers in your home and locate them for convenient use. Ensure they are checked regularly and recharged as necessary.
  • Most house hold fire extinguishers are rated as ABC, to deal with A = paper, wood, cardboard, and most plastics; B = flammable or combustible liquids such as gasoline, kerosene, grease and oil; and, C = electrical equipment, such as appliances, wiring, circuit breakers and outlets.
  • Make sure you have working smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors, test them at least monthly, replace any batteries at least annually and replace entire units according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
  • Keep sidewalks, walkways, paths, driveways and stairs free from trip / fall hazards like snow & ice.

Have a Safe & Happy Holiday Season!

PRINT VERSION: To print off and share these Holiday Safety Tips with friends and loved ones, simply right click on the image below. Maybe you can take a minute to review it with them, stick it on their fridge or on a bulletin board at work. Just maybe you will help prevent an accident over the holidays. By the way, if you’re having troubles finding gift for a loved one, why not get them a fire extinguisher, a smoke alarm or a carbon monoxide detector?

Holiday-Safety-Tips-2017

 

Home Maintenance – Suggestions & Tips #31

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home maintenance

Are you this happy about doing your home maintenance?

Unfortunately, few things if any are truly maintenance free including homes. Wood surfaces, for example, which are exposed to the elements and are not painted or sealed, can begin to rot. Caulking around windows and doors can not only seal the home from air leaks but also reduce the chances of water and moisture entering the house and negatively affecting building materials. Larger problems can occur from lack of maintenance. It is important to recognize that for a house to remain in good condition periodic maintenance must be carried out. As a budget figure, a general rule of thumb is that 1% to 3% (perhaps as much as 4%) of the value of the home should be set aside for maintenance each year. In some cases it may be more.

Preventative maintenance is likely still the most cost effective way of dealing with items. It can reduce repair bills, extend life expectancies, and, maximize operating and energy efficiencies. Waiting until items break down can be quite costly. A methodical approach to maintenance is the best.

Routine inspections of building items, components and systems will likely reduce high cost repairs. In some cases, you will not be qualified, feel comfortable or, for that matter, even enjoy inspecting or carrying out an effective maintenance program. On the other hand, some areas may be right up your alley. Be sure to consult and review all manufacturer’s guidelines and specifications before embarking on any maintenance work. Seek further professional assistance if, and when, needed.

For more building related topics and maintenance tips check out our Resource Centre.

Homeowner’s Insurance

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If you are going to finance the purchase of your home, lenders will likely require that you obtain homeowner’s insurance to protect their security (your home) before they lend you the money for a mortgage. If you can’t get homeowners’ insurance, you won’t be able to close your deal…a messy situation. Regardless of financing, we think it just makes sense to have homeowner’s insurance anyway. However, you may not be aware that you just can’t automatically get homeowner’s insurance in every instance…and even if you can get coverage, it may come at an additional / higher premium or require further action on your part such as repairs, modifications and / or require further inspections. Here’s a list of some of issues that ring alarm bells with some insurers of homes:

Electrical

  • Knob and tube / older distribution wiring
  • 60 amp / older electrical service
  • Aluminum distribution wiring
  • Glass fused electrical panels

Environmental

  • Fuel storage tanks, including buried ones
  • Asbestos covered boilers / hot water heating pipes
  • Mould / mildew / fungus

Heating

  • Distance to combustible materials
  • Older furnaces
  • Area / portable heaters
  • Combination furnaces e.g. wood / oil
  • Alternate heating sources in outbuildings

Fireplaces / Wood Stoves / Chimneys

  • Wood stoves / wood stove inserts
  • Distance to combustible materials

Plumbing

  • Galvanized steel plumbing pipes
  • Cast iron waste pipes

Roofs

  • Older roofs / shingles

Safety

  • No smoke detectors
  • No carbon monoxide detectors
  • No alarm / security system, especially not monitored

Stairways / Walkways (potential trip / fall hazard)

  • Missing / loose handrails on stairs
  • Missing / loose balusters spindles
  • Heaving / cracked walkways

Insects & Vermin

  • Presence of infestation / damage

Other

  • Unprofessional work carried out to the home
  • Grow houses (marijuana operation)
  • Income / rental properties
  • Proximity / location of your property to other high risk properties
  • Use of the property not the same as it was constructed for
  • Your credit rating

Please consult your homeowner’s insurance broker before purchasing your home to ensure coverage and premium costs are satisfactory to you.

Homeowners Insurance Coverage – Suggestions & Tips #3

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homeowners insurance

Consult your insurance broker before purchasing your home to ensure coverage and premium costs on your homeowners insurance policy are available & satisfactory to you. Check out our article on “Homeowner’s Insurance Coverage” for a list of items that may ring alarm bells with some insurance companies, for example, issue concerning:

  • Electrical
  • Environmental
  • Heating
  • Fireplaces / Wood Stoves / Chimneys
  • Plumbing
  • Roofs
  • Safety
  • Stairways / Walkways (potential trip / fall hazard)
  • Insects & Vermin
  • Grow houses (marijuana operation)
  • Income / rental properties
  • Your credit rating

Play it safe when buying a home. Make “Offer to Purchase” conditional on obtaining the insurance you want for your home.

Hot Water Heaters – Types, Tips & Safety

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Hot water heaters don’t seem to be talked about often. Some people will own or rent their hot water heater often depending on want is commonplace in their area. For some, renting means that if anything goes wrong, they’ll just get it fixed by the owner / utility company they’ve rented it from. But there are a number of things you need to know whether you own or rent.

Fuel — Hot water heaters are typically fueled by natural gas, propane, oil, or electricity. Some solar powered heating systems are available as well.

With traditional water heaters that are fueled by natural gas, propane or oil, regular maintenance is required as like many furnaces they have burners, pilot lights, and controls. Electric powered heaters have a heating element.

Venting — Where combustion gases are present (based on the fuel type used) they are vented either through a metal flue out to a chimney or are power vented out through a plastic pipe.

Tanks — some are metal whilst others are glass lined. Over time tanks can rust causing the tank to leak.

Coloured Water — Occasionally, you may find that your hot water is discoloured. A rusting metal tank can cause this. It is recommended that tanks be drained monthly to reduce any build up of sediment in the tank. This is a dangerous operation involving very hot water often capable of causing scalding burns so exercise extreme caution when doing this or better yet call a professional if you are not familiar and comfortable with doing this. If this is not done, a built up may accumulate in the tank and cause reduce pressure in the water supply.

Relief Valve — All hot water heaters should have a temperature / pressure relief valve. These relief valves will discharge water from the tank in the event the temperature or pressure in the tank is too high. Some hot water heaters turn the fuel supply (gas) off if the temperature gets too high. Make sure there is a discharge pipe leading from the relief valve to about six inches above the floor so the hot water can be directed away properly.

Preventing Hot Water Scalds

There are numerous scalding injuries each year in Canada. Many people are hospitalized to treat what are often severe burns.

These burns can be easily prevented, with just a simple adjustment to one device in your home. Some have suggested that legislation is required to force homeowners to make this simple change. The easiest and most effective solution of course is to turn down the heat on your home hot water heater.

Some areas in the U.S. and Canada now require hot water heaters in new homes to be set lower that the traditional 60°C (140°F), to a lower and safer limit of 49°C, or 120°F which has led to a major drop in hot water burns.

Carbon Monoxide — as with any fossil fuel burning appliance, hot water heaters fueled for example, by natural gas, propane, or, oil produce dangerous combustion gases that must be vented to the outdoors. If not properly maintained or vented, a hot water tank can be a source for letting various dangerous combustion gases, such as carbon monoxide (CO), to enter the home. Sometimes, newer or tighter homes can allow back drafting or spillage to occur from these appliances allowing these dangerous gasses into home as well.

Alternatives to Conventional Hot Water Heaters — Generally, there are two schools of thought when it comes to hot water heating. In North America, we typically use 30, 40 or 50 gallon tanks for water heater heating. In the past, with low energy costs this was quite acceptable. However, there are two other methods that are efficient and worthy of mention.

1. Point of Use Systems: These are typically used under a sink and supply hot water in locations where there is no primary water heater or it is far away.  Often these are used in RV’s, mobile homes, boats and campsites.  But they’re also useful washrooms located in warehouses, service stations, stores and restaurants.  They are not good for whole house systems or where hot water is required at multiple outlets. It may make sense however to compare installing them where required in home versus a conventional whole house hot water heating system.

2. Tankless Systems: These can replace your home’s conventional system that stores hot water and keeps reheating it day in and day out regardless of how long it will be before you need it again. These systems can be hung on the wall freeing up the valuable floor space where it used to occupy.  They are sized based on you demand / needs. With the right size installed, you will never run out of hot water again.

Like point of use water heaters, tankless water heaters can be sized for use in RV’s and mobile homes too. They can also be used in small commercial and light industrial applications as well.  The advantage to this system is that it can significantly lower energy costs and have much longer a life span than conventional water heaters with no tank to leak.

Energy-saving tips:

  • Consider the more energy-efficient models if buying or renting a new unit. They are better insulated and have a better-quality tank base.
  • Avoid installing hot water heaters on a cold concrete floor because they can lose heat.
  • Install an insulating blanket on electric water heaters. On a natural gas or propane water heater, install only an insulating kit that is certified by the Canadian Gas Association. Keep the insulating cover clear of the air inlet for the burner and temperature controls. Adding insulation on an oil-fired water heater can be dangerous and is not recommended.
  • Insulate your hot water pipes
  • Have your hot water heater professionally inspected and maintained regularly as you would with your furnace, at least annually.
  • Installing the hot water heater as close to where it will be used the most.
  • Lower the temperature setting on your water heater.
  • Water conservation practices and reduced consumption will help reduce waste and energy bills.
  • Consider shutting your off water heater if not using it or if you’ll be away for a few weeks or months.

Hot Water Scalding – Suggestions & Tips #61

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hot water scalding

The invention of the water heater added great convenience & luxury to the home, but if the temperature is too high, hot water scalding can occur.

Many homeowner’s are unaware that you can regulate the temperature of the water heater. Some people only turn there water temperature down if on vacation and choose to temper the hot water with cold instead. The safer way is to turn down the temperature of the hot water supply.

Turning down the temperature on your water heater can not only prevent accidental scalding but save you energy costs too. Traditionally, water tanks came pre-set to a temperature of 60°C (140°F). Today, a maximum water temperature of 49°C (120°F) is recommended, however scalding may still occur. Bacteria can also grow in your tank if below 60°C (140°F), so the Canada Safety Council recommends 54°C (130°F) maximum. The Building Code maximum at fixtures is 49°C (120°F), except for dishwashers & clothes washers.

Installing automatic mixing valves on faucets, showers & tubs, or an anti-scald mixing valve on your water heater can also achieve this. This work would typically be carried out by a licensed plumber.

Play it safe! Ensure your water temperature is appropriate for your water heater and safe before you use it.

House Fire Discovered…Now What? – Suggestions & Tips #165

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house fire

When we inspect buildings (homes or commercial properties) it’s not unusual that we might come across evidence that a house fire has taken place, sometimes to the surprise of both homeowner and their real estate agent. One need only look at the Fire Statistics from the Ontario Fire Marshal’s Office to realize the impact fires have.

In part, this can be due to the fact that remedial work has taken place that is not readily apparent. Other times, the affected areas are simply painted (sometimes with a “silver” coloured paint) to prevent smoke odours from permeating throughout. Some areas however remain untouched after a fire, for example, in an attic (see left picture) or in unfinished basement areas (see right picture) as they are tucked away in a location that is not frequently accessed or simply difficult to get at.

So it begs a number of questions after the discovery of a fire, or our suspicion that a fire has taken place, for example:

  • to what extent did that fire have on the building?
  • what remedial action may have taken place (if any) e.g. behind the finished walls and ceilings?
  • did the fire get extinguished early on causing only smoke damage?
  • was the structural integrity of the building compromised?

Quite often, answers to these questions cannot be ascertained by a visual inspection. While we might suspect that a fire has transpired at some point, additional information from the vendor or other additional sources such as the Fire Marshall’s office or insurance company will be needed to learn more about when the fire took place, the extent of the house fire and any remedial work that was carried out to the building. Depending on the severity of the fire (or what’s remaining after the fire that’s been corrected or not) you may require an evaluation by a structural engineer. Charred wood (e.g. roof rafters, floors joists) is not necessarily all bad nor does it need to be replaced in all instances. In fact, charring wood can make it more resistant to fire in the future and preserve its structural integrity. However, when sufficient amounts of the wood have been burnt away, it does require additional bracing / support or replacement.

Finally, we’d be remiss if we didn’t add: please make sure you have up to date working smoke alarms in your home. Generally, it’s recommended to have one per level and one per bedroom.

If you are considering buying a building that’s been in a fire, own one that has or are simply unsure if there has been one, protect yourself…get it inspected.

House Styles

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It does seem that there are hundreds of different house styles and we use different names for the same type of homes. For example, is there a difference between a bungalow or ranch style? What about a row house or townhouse?  Or a semi detached home or duplex? Here are some definitions for some of the more common architectural styles and types of North American homes, including some you won’t often find in Ontario.

A-Frame — contemporary, triangular-shaped home with its roof extending down towards the ground on both sides. Often they may have many larger windows on the front and rear facades. They are popular as vacation cottages.

Bungalow — commonly, a one-story house with a low-pitched roof. An alternative is a compact 1 1/2-story home containing small rooms. Variations include enclosed front porches and bay windows.

Cape Cod — simple 1 1/2-story design, with a distinctive steeply pitched roof, shutters, and, centered front door. Variations include dormers and bay windows.

Colonial — a rectangular design, often characterized by double hung windows with multiple window panes, shutters, an overhanging upper story, and, fireplaces. Variations include pillars/columns, fanlight window above the door, dormers and panelled doors.

Co-operative — a dwelling unit owned by a corporation where a purchaser acquires a share in it. Use, rights and obligations are governed by a member’s agreement. This is a form of ownership rather than a style of home. Different laws in the U.S. and Canada govern Co-op’s.

Condominium — a multi-unit building, with the individual’s unit privately owned, and the building and land owned by all individual unit owners. This is a form of ownership rather than a style of home.

Cotswold Cottage — charming English country-style house that features a thatched-style roof, chimneys, varied roofline, low doors, and, small paned windows.

Detached Home — sometimes referred to as single detached home, contains one dwelling unit, and, is not attached to any other building.

Dutch Colonial — a two-story house characterized by a gambrel roofline (a roof with a lower steeper slope and an upper less steep one on each of its two sides), flared overhanging eaves. Variations include shutters.

Duplex — one of two dwellings, one above the other, in one building.

Federal — often made of brick, this is a stately two-story symmetrical house with centered front door, sidelights and fanlight window above the door. Further it has common windows styles evenly distributed across the front and sides of the home as well as identical chimneys at the sidewalls of the house.

Four Square — a two-story, square box, design often having a front porch.

Freehold — a townhouse unit where the owner owns the dwelling and lot.

Georgian — a large rectangular brick house with a formal, classical, design and a hipped roof. Often includes dormers, distinctive corner brick quoins in a contrasting colour, elaborate entranceway and crown mouldings.

Gothic Revival — whimsical in design they feature steeply pitched roofs and gables, complex gingerbread trim and distinguishing vertical siding. Variations include parapet walls made to look like small castles.

Granny Flat — a small apartment in the main house

Greek Revival — these homes are a take-off on the Greek temple design. Often having a front roofline and recessed entrance. Features include pillars along the front of the house, or, pilasters (an upright architectural member, rectangular in shape, that is structurally a pier but architecturally treated as a column).

Italianate — typically a two-story square shaped home, flat roof with wide eaves and complex decorative brackets underneath, as well as arched windows and doors. Often includes an ornamental cupola.

Mansard — this two-story house gets its name from its mansard roof (having two slopes on all sides with the lower slope steeper than the upper one) continuing over the second story of the house only to be interrupted by small windows or dormers.

Normandy — these brick homes with steeply pitched roofs and flared eaves are made to look like small French castles. Commonly, they include entry via the two-story tower complete with a tiny balcony.

Prairie — popularized by architect Frank Lloyd Wright, this style home stresses horizontal lines. Features include a flat or low-pitched roof, wide overhangs, rows of casement windows and decorative banding along the exterior walls.

Pueblo — common to the Southwest desert, these earth coloured distinctive adobe and stucco houses resemble pueblos of Native Americans. Features include round edged exterior walls, flat roofs and rustic support beams extending through walls.

Queen Anne — although simpler and less elaborate than a Victorian home it has many architectural features such as a round turret, wrap-around porch with gazebo, bay window and gables. Commonly, has horizontal bands highlighting differing textures and materials.

Ranch — typically, a rectangular or “L” shaped home with all rooms on its one level. Its simple layout features openness and efficient use of space. Variations include a raised ranch where the basement level extends partially above the ground to allow for larger windows and the feeling of another above ground level.

Romanesque — typically, these impressive homes are made from brick or stone, having rounded turrets and arched entranceways.

Row House — A row of similar, often narrow, attached units with smaller yards.

Salt Box — a simple, distinctive, design featuring a flat front and steeply sloped rear roof that often includes a fireplace.

Semi-detached — one of two dwellings, attached by a common wall, that is located within one building.

Single Family Dwelling — a housing unit provided in detached, duplex, row house or townhouse that is designed to be occupied by one family.

Shingle Style — these homes are covered with dark coloured wooden shingles. Features include steeply pitched roofs and porches.

Spanish — typically, feature a red tile roof, arched doorways and windows, terra cotta tiled floors wrought iron accents light coloured stucco, beamed ceilings, patios or courtyards.

Split Level — these multi-level homes are designed to make efficient use of space by having, for example, their main living space on one level, bedrooms on another, with utility and recreation rooms on another level slightly below grade.

Tidewater — typical features include a wide porch on three or four sides, a hip roof, and many doors and windows for cross ventilation.

Townhouse — a series of multi-level houses, connected by common sidewalls and forming a continuous group, each with private entrances. A type of row house typically with individual facades, staggered set backs, varied heights, and, larger yards.

Tudor — a picturesque old English design, with gables and half-timbered exterior walls, utilizing brick or stucco, Features include diamond shaped windowpanes, arched windows and doorways.

Victorian — whimsical, extravagantly ornamented houses may include multi-coloured exterior walls and trim, a widows walk, complex gingerbread trim, towers, multiple tiered rooflines, stained glass work, tall ceilings, hardwood floors, porches and impressive stairways.

Houses with Apartment Units

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Do you have a house with an apartment unit? In Ontario, Reg. 385-94 Bill 20 states that local municipal zoning is now required as to where new second units can be located. Existing units used and occupied on November 16, 1995 (with appropriate proof required) are grandfathered in and legalizes uses where a building permit was issued before May 22, 1996.

All units must meet the Fire Code by July 14, 1996 with two inspections required — one from the Fire Department and the other from Ontario Hydro. Typically, it is the owner of the property who is required to comply with Fire Code. It is the Fire Department’s job to enforce it. Areas of improvement as a result of this may include items such as interconnected smoke alarms, sprinkler systems, shared means of egress, fire separation, etc. Non-compliance with Fire Code can carry hefty fines. It also allows for a mandatory registry system that could also ban occupation of unregistered units.

Contact your Municipal Planning department, Fire Prevention Department / Office or lawyer for further information.

How Many Roof Vents Do You Need? – Suggestions & Tips #109

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how many roof vents do you need

How many roof vents do you need? Is there such as thing as too many? You may be surprised to learn that more is not always better.

Attic venting is crucial. There is a tendency however to add more roof vents at the ridge to accomplish this. It seems intuitive that this might work, except that in order for good venting to occur you need convection to occur. So, to encourage this you need more venting lower down on the roof (and preferably at the soffit area) in order to draw in cooler air. This then forces the hotter attic area out the roof vents at the ridge area. With more venting at the ridge versus the soffit area, good venting may not occur.

There are some general rules of thumb for venting an attic space:

  • There should be one square foot (1 sq. ft.) of vent space for every 600 sq. ft. of attic area
  • Approximately 60% of your venting should be at the soffit area overhanging the house.

Without convection occurring you can trap air & inhibit good venting, which can promote condensation, frost in winter, wood rot and mould growth in your attic.

If you are thinking of installing turbine vents (sometimes called whirlybirds), we don’t recommend them as a general rule.

So…how is your attic venting?

How Septic Systems Work

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Septic systems have been in use for along time and are very reliable. Here are some of things you’ll need to know:

On average, septic systems have an estimated life span of about 20 to 30 years. A properly constructed and maintained system may last longer. A system that is not maintained can fail in 2 years or less. Regular maintenance protects the investment and avoids replacement costs. Maintenance also protects the health of your family, the community and the environment. Replacing a failing septic system can cost thousands of dollars compared to the one or two hundred dollars that it costs to have the system regularly inspected and pumped out. When systems fail, inadequately treated household wastewater is released into the environment. This can contaminate nearby wells, ground water, and drinking water sources. Any contact with untreated human waste can pose significant health risks. Four very important principles to follow are:

1.    Don’t overload your septic system with extra water;
2.    Know what you can put in the system and what not to flush into it;
3.    Pump the septic tank on a regular basis; and,
4.    Do not disturb the tile bed / leaching bed /drain field e.g. by driving on it or planting shrubs on top of it.

A conventional septic system consists of two main parts: the septic tank and the drainage field (also referred to as a leaching field. At the head of the drainage field a distribution box or a manifold distributes wastewater to several absorption trenches. How does the system works?

The Septic Tank — A septic tank is a large, underground, watertight container that is connected to the home’s main sewer line. The size of the tank is determined by things such as the size of the home, the number of bedrooms and bathrooms in the home. Septic tanks are made of concrete, fiberglass or polyethylene.

The untreated waste water flows from the house to the septic tank where the solids separate from the liquid over time. The lighter solids, like soapsuds and oils / fats, float to the top and form a scum layer in the tank. Over time this layer continues to thicken until you have the tank cleaned. The liquid waste however goes out to the drainage field, while the heaviest solids settle to the bottom of the tank where they are digested by bacteria. The solids that do not decompose and remain behind form a sludge layer that eventually must also be pumped out.

Modern septic tanks have two compartments. Baffles at the tank’s inlet pipe slow the incoming waste products and reduce the disturbance of the settled sludge. Another baffle at the outlet keeps the solids or scum in the tank. All tanks should have accessible covers for checking the condition of the baffles and for pumping out both compartments.

The Drainage Field — Treatment of waste water continues beneath the soil in the drainage field. The drainage field typically consists of long underground perforated pipes or tiles connected to the septic tank. The network of pipes is laid in gravel-filled trenches or beds in the soil. The liquid waste or effluent flows out of the tank and is then evenly distributed into the soil through the piping system. The soil below the drain-field provides the final treatment of the septic tank effluent. After the effluent has passed into the soil, most of it percolates downward and outward, eventually entering the groundwater. The size and type of drainage field depends on the estimated daily waste water flow and soil conditions.

When should the tank be pumped out? This depends on a number of items including: the size of your tank, the number of people in the household contributing to the volume of your wastewater, and, the volume of solids in your waste water. Generally, the tank should be pumped out every two to five years although a larger tank and smaller household may function longer without requiring pumping.

How do you know when something is wrong with your septic system? By far the most common reason for early failure is improper maintenance by homeowners. When a system is poorly maintained and not pumped out on a regular basis, sludge builds up inside the septic tank, then flows into the drainage field, clogging it beyond repair. Here are some of the warning signs that may indicate a failing septic system:

  • The soil in the drainage field area is wet or soggy.
  • Grass grows greener or faster in the drainage field area.
  • Sewer gas (methane) odours in the house or yard.
  • Plumbing backups into the house.
  • Slowly draining sinks and toilets.
  • Gurgling sounds in the plumbing.

Should a septic system be inspected when buying or selling a home? A septic system evaluation should be conducted as soon as the property is placed on the market so that necessary repairs can be made to the system if required. Failing this, an inspection should definitely be done as a condition of your “Offer to Purchase”.

At a minimum, the inspection should include:

  • The location, age, size and original design (if records are available) of the septic system.
  • The soil conditions, drainage, seasonal water table and flooding possibilities on the site where the septic system is located.
  • The history of the system (if records are available).
  • The condition of the plumbing fixtures and their layout to determine whether structural changes have been made to the plumbing that would increase flow to the septic system above capacity. System components that could affect the system, for example, water softeners draining to the septic tank or the presence of footing drains should also be inspected. Slow-flushing toilets and slow drains may indicate a failing system.
  • The date the septic tank was last pumped (if records available).
  • The sludge level in the septic tank if it has not been pumped out recently.
  • The condition of the drainage field. Look for evidence of liquid waste reaching the soil surface, draining toward nearby lakes and streams, or clogging the soil and gravel beneath the field. (This usually requires digging up a small portion of the drainage field.) Look for signs of heavy equipment that has been on the drainage field, causing compaction and possible damage.

Humidifier Maintenance – Suggestions & Tips #97

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humidifier maintenance

Just like you service your furnace and air conditioner, humidifier maintenance should be part of your regular routine. Not carrying out this work can lead to problems down the road.

Humidifiers can save energy costs & increase comfort levels. Increased humidity can help with asthma/allergies. Dirty humidifiers on the other hand can worsen health symptoms & be a breeding ground for bacteria & mould. Here are some maintenance tips:

  • For drum humidifiers – clean the distribution tray & filter frame with warm slightly soapy water & replace the evaporator pad.
  • For bypass flow-through models – unevaporated water drains from the bottom of the unit to eliminate mineral build-up, making maintenance easier. Check the drain hose for blockages. Clean/install a new filter annually & rinse the removable tray every 6 months to prevent bacteria buildup.
  • Check & repair humidifiers for any leaks.
  • Close up / shut down units after use in the winter. Turn off the water supply to the unit, turn back humidistat and or turn off power supply.

With your humidifier maintenance completed, monitor the humidity levels in your home with a hygrometer (available from your local hardware store).

Ice Damming

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Have you ever gone by a home and noticed long icicles hanging from the eavestroughs? These accumulations of ice are not only a physical hazard they can cause leaking of a roof. The cause of this problem, commonly called ice damming, occurs when warm air escapes from the living areas into the attic. This warm air heats the roof and melts the snow. Water running down the roof under the covering of the snow, will re-freeze at the cold eaves. When ice forms it prevents water from draining off the roof. This “pooled” water, above the ice dam, will seep under any layered roofing system. Ice dams are also responsible for clogged and damaged eavestroughs, wet insulation in the roof and walls. Wet wood, paint failure, and decay will result if the problem persists.

Several measures can be taken to eliminate ice damming. Seal all attic penetrations, for example, around bathroom exhaust fans, plumbing vents, electrical wiring and outlets, with caulking or weather stripping. Vent all exhaust fans outside through the roof. Install an appropriate amount of insulation in the attic. Provide adequate and effective ventilation. Cold air should completely wash the underside of the roof above the insulation. This ventilation includes not only soffit and roof vents but also pre-formed baffles to ensure attic insulation does not block ventilation paths.

Eliminating the potential for ice damming by maintaining a well ventilated roof will save money and aggravation.

Ice Damming – Suggestions & Tips #55

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ice dams

Have you gone by a home with icicles hanging from the roof? Ice dams are not only are these a physical hazard to any property or people that stand below, it can also cause your roof to leak.

Ice dams or ice damming occurs when warm air escapes from the house through the attic and melts the snow on the roof. The water now runs down the roof freezing at the colder soffits / eaves. Ice then forms preventing further water from draining off the roof that can now seep under any layered roofing system. Reducing heat loss from the home and increasing attic insulation & ventilation will improve ice damming conditions, saving you money & aggravation.

Click here for more information on ice damming.

Indoor Air Contaminants – Suggestions & Tips #140

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indoor air contaminents

There are many potential biological & chemical indoor air contaminants affecting the air that we breathe. They include but are not limited to:

  • carbon monoxide
  • carbon dioxide
  • formaldehyde
  • nitrogen dioxide
  • ozone
  • sulphur dioxide
  • radon
  • water vapour
  • mould

High moisture / humidity levels represent a major cause of poor indoor air quality as it promotes mould growth. By products of combustion from a furnace, fireplace & car engines, radon gas from the natural radioactive decay of uranium, ozone released from some laser printers / copiers, electronic air cleaners / ion generators, building materials that off gas, paints, household cleaners and certain indoor activities / hobbies  can all worsen your indoor air quality.

Having healthier indoor air quality (IAQ) should be everyone’s goal as your indoor air is often more polluted than the air outside. Sometimes the solution to improving you air quality can be quite simple and direct. Of course, other times it can be more complex and involved. It may be that there are multiple sources contributing to your poor indoor air quality however you are only having a reaction to one or two.

Unsure what’s going on in your home with indoor air contaminants? Are you feeling sick but not sure why? Get it inspected!

Indoor Air Quality (IAQ)

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AA014332

Indoor air quality (IAQ) has become a hot topic of late for homeowners. We often think of environmental issues as relating to outside the home. It’s no wonder since we always seem to hear about pollution from vehicles or factories in the news. But there’s more to your environment that just outside.

What are some of the health risks? — Today researchers know that IAQ is key to healthy living. Symptoms can include headaches, dizziness, fatigue, and, the irritation of eyes, ears, nose and throat could result from poor air quality. Prolonged exposure to continued pollution could lead to serious illness including respiratory, heart disease, and, cancer. There are many areas in a home that can potentially be of concern.

IAQ items you may have heard about — Carbon Dioxide (CO2) — a colourless, odourless gas somewhat heavier than air, most commonly generated by respiration, cooking heating systems, wood stoves, etc. Carbon Monoxide (CO) — a colourless, odourless, highly poisonous gas produced by the incomplete combustion of any carbon-based material. Common sources include automobile exhaust, cigarette smoke, kerosene heaters, furnaces, etc. Formaldehyde (HCHO) — a colourless, pungent gas used in solution as a strong disinfectant and preservative. It is found in wood building material, plastics, cosmetics, textiles, carpet, carpet furniture, pesticides, paint, glue, insulation, and, cleaning products. Nitrogen Dioxide (NO2) — a colourless highly poisonous gas that is a by-product of combustion. Sources include furnaces, water heaters, ovens, stove, etc.

Some familiar items — Mould, yeast and fungus can cause allergic reactions such as runny nose, sore throat, watery eyes, sneezing, coughing, and upper respiratory discomfort in sensitive people. Severely allergic people, such as asthmatics, can have trouble breathing. Prolonged exposure can cause anyone to develop an allergy. Other effects include dizziness, lethargy, fever, digestive problems, influenza, and other infectious diseases.

What is Mould? — a downy or furry growth on the surface of organic matter caused by fungi, especially in the presence of dampness or decay. Yeast — a cluster of minute, fermenting fungi that produce gas. Fungus — a plant, that lacks chlorophyll and includes, for example, mould, rusts, mildews, and, bacteria.

Where does mould, fungi, and, yeast come from? — Bacteria, mould, pollen and viruses are types of biological contaminants. They can breed, for example, in damp areas, stagnant water that accumulates in ducts, humidifiers and drain pans, or where water has collected on ceiling tiles, carpeting or insulation.

How concerned should you be? — North American studies (including a CMHC, Natural Resources Canada, and, Health Canada, sponsored study — The Wallaceburg Ontario Project) have suggested that between 10% and 35% of homes have serious mould contamination. Very high concentrations of endotoxin and fungi have been found in office and residential dust. An Indoor Mould Exposure article in the 1997 Canadian Journal of Allergy & Clinical Immunology states:

“The spores of indoor mould species contain allergens and toxic metabolites. Endotoxin occurs in high concentrations in residential environments and this may be true for other bacterial compounds including peptidoglycan. Endotoxcins causes respiratory symptoms and synergizes patients’ responses to allergens, among other effects…Carpets in homes, and sometimes in the non-industrial workplace, are a sink for moulds.”

How can you improve your IAQ? — Generally, there are three methods to “clean” and improve your home’s indoor air.

1. Getting to the root of the problem and removing, or controlling, source emissions likely will require the determination of the presence of the various IAQ contaminants. Often, a professional inspector can test these for quite inexpensively.

2. Ventilation can be paramount. Although newer homes are more air tight they can often have air exchangers/HRV’s too. Signs of improper ventilation in your home may include:

a)    Smell (check for musty odours, cleaning agents, cooking, stuffiness),
b)    Humidity (high winter humidity in cold climates, mildew/mildew, laundry/dish rags/towels that do not dry, lingering odours, hygrometer),
c)    High CO2 (need’s measurement), or,
d)    Poor IAQ that may be caused in part by poor ventilation (illness, better health outside the home).

3. Cleaning your indoor air can take the form of:

a)    Mechanical filters, including a HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) filter,
b)    Electronic air cleaners,
c)    Ion generators which charge particles and draw them to a collector, and,
d)    Solid filter media such as activated carbon filters.

Lastly, don’t forget to use a dehumidifier. Keeping the relative humidity below about 60% is best. Air conditioners will dehumidify the air in the summer too. Be mindful that if you do dehumidify the air, the water collected may be contaminated or promote fungi/fungi growth. So, ensure that you deal with that moisture/water collection device accordingly.

Inspecting Work In Progress – Suggestions & Tips #127

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work in progress

If you are buying a home that is under construction, renovation, having modifications made to it or there is work in progress, there are a number of issues you’ll need to have addressed.

During a home inspection we often come across work that has been carried out or that still a work in process and home buyers need to take special care as a result. First off, there may be other work which we are unaware of that is either in process, unfinished or yet to be started. As a result, during a “regular” or typical home inspection though we do not inspect their work or ascertain what work is remaining, incomplete or requires further attention other than as we may advise you. Since we don’t know the scope of the work, we don’t compile a laundry list of items which need correction or that are incomplete. It may be that this work is all to be completed by closing for example, and as a result we aren’t inspecting the “finished product”.

That’s not to say this information isn’t important however. We do recommend you determine who is responsible for completing the work and who will pay for it. You’ll also want to ensure that permits were taken out & completed and if any warranties / guarantees are available & transferable to you.

Insulating Knee Wall Attics – Suggestions & Tips #24

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knee wall

A knee wall is short wall, perhaps a metre high or so, supporting roof rafters typically in a room with vaulted / sloped ceilings. The cavity created by this area between the knee wall and the roof rafters forms an attic space, and insulating this area is often not done properly. Knee wall attics are common in older storey and a half homes, but can be found in new homes too.

Sometimes batt insulation is installed between the roof rafters in these attic spaces, suggesting it is to be a “warm space” (see image above). As such, heating and air circulation should be provided in that space just like any other area within the home. If insulation is installed between the rafters it can also reduce the life span of the shingles and other building related materials and cause concerns, such as, moisture, mould, mildew, and fungus as there is less ventilation (and often insulation) than say with “traditional” attic spaces.

Another method of insulating this area would be to remove the insulation between the rafters and put insulation in the knee walls themselves and in the floor areas (along with appropriate vapour barriers). In this case, the knee wall area becomes a “cold space” like traditional attic areas. Proper air blocks / air barriers, for example, covering the insulation on the attic side and between the attic floor joists below the knee wall should be present. As well, the access door should be insulated and sealed appropriately. It is crucial to determine if the knee wall attic space will be a warm or cold space, and to insulate it appropriately. Unfortunately, far too often we see these areas improperly insulated which can create issues with condensation, wood rot and mould.

Read more on mould prevention here.

Insulating Water Pipes – Suggestions & Tips #167

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insulating water pipes

Insulating water pipes seems straight forward enough, but many homeowners don’t do it. In part, that’s because it’s not understood why it should be done in the first place, how it should be done and what water pipes should be insulated. Here are some things to consider before starting your water pipe insulation project:

Cold Water Supply Pipes – reasons to consider insulating cold water supply lines:

  • If the basement / crawlspace is a conditioned space (e.g. heated and insulated), the uninsulated cold water pipes can absorb heat from that space. That is, the cold water pipes are colder than the air temperature in the basement / crawlspace. This is true when the water is turned off (the pipes don’t stay cold as long) or when the water is running.
  • If the basement / crawlspace is unconditioned (e.g. not heated / insulated), then the uninsulated pipes run the risk of freezing (just as hot water pipes would). So, insulation can help to reduce the chance of pipes freezing or worse yet bursting and leaking into the space.
  • Lastly, condensation occurs on cold surfaces when met by the warmer air. In summer for example, cold water pipes will condense and get water dripping from them if left uninsulated.

Hot Water Supply Pipes – reasons to consider insulating hot water supply lines. This is not for radiant hot water heating pipes (see below):

  • There can be heat loss depending on the length of pipe and volume / speed water is called upon. Some estimates suggest that by insulating your hot water pipes you can prevent a 1°C–2°C heat loss in water temperature. As a result, saving you energy if you lower the temperature setting at your water tank.
  • If the hot water pipes are exposed to very cold air in an unconditioned space (e.g. unheated crawlspace) they should be insulated regardless to prevent freezing and a pipe burst. Further, it reduces energy costs.
  • If you want water to arrive at a faucet or the shower quicker / hotter, shortening the length of the run from that water heater can help or if you install a recirculating pump (require additional plumbing). Another alternative is to relocate the water heater to a location that is closer to where it’s being used. You could also install an on demand / tankless water heater. Sometimes multiple tankless units can make sense when installed close to its place of use and depending on your demand for hot water.
  • To help prevent heat loss, insulate at least the first two metres (2M) of the hot water pipe and one metre (1M) of the cold water pipe leading to / from your water tank. NOTE: If your water heater has a draft hood connecting the flue pipe to the chimney, ensure the distance to combustibles is sufficient for safety purposes and don’t install insulation / pipe wrap within fifteen centimeters (15cm) of this (or as recommended by the water heater manufacturer / licensed heating contractor).

Radiant Hot Water Heating Pipes – generally, this refers to hot water pipes for radiant heating e.g. from a boiler to: a radiator or where encased, for example, in concrete and or floor panels to give off their heat for in-floor radiant heating. This is not for water supply lines (see above).

Take for example the situation we often come across in a basement. There are plenty of radiant hot water heating pipes coming from the boiler, however they are uninsulated. They certainly give off heat that can heat this space. So, why insulate and make the basement or first floor cold?

Ideally, you want to insulate these pipes to control and get the heat directly to where the heat is needed / intended. Often, they do not install radiators in the basement, so leaving the pipes uninsulated heated the space…but inefficiently. In addition, these basements may not have their exterior walls insulated, so there’s enough energy loss happening for everyone 🙂 As a result, we would recommend:

  • Insulating your radiant hot heating pipes.
  • Add radiators if / where needed in your basement / conditioned space.
  • Insulate your basement / crawlspace walls with vapour barriers so that condensation cannot form.

In addition, since your boiler will be creating less hot water, there will be less wear & tear on it. Your boiler typically works on a closed loop system with recirculating pump used to cycle the hot water to the radiators / in-floor heating panels and back for re-heating. As the boiler will be working less, so will you circulating pump.

Tips for Installing Pipe Wrap Insulation

  • Use preformed “T’s” and “900 Elbows” for best performance and ease of installation where possible.
  • Ensure insulation is self-sealing or sealed manually to prevent heat loss and or condensation from forming.
  • Used closed cell foam on cold water lines to prevent water absorption into the foam from any condensation.
  • Radiant hot water heating pipes commonly use molded fiberglass with a paper-free jacket. Installation is similar, but not identical to foam. For safety, refer to the owner’s manual / installation specifications for the boiler and or contact a licensed heating contractor for distances to combustible materials for any pipe insulation, for example, to the boiler, chimney, draft hood, etc.
  • R-Values, ball park estimates: (1) foam style insulation for hot / cold water pipes varies from about R1.5 to R2.5. (2) molded fiberglass insulation for radiant hot water heating pipes R5 to R6 at 1” thickness.

Perhaps one of the best reasons for insulating pipes is that it does not cost very much to do so, making improvements in heat loss, energy costs, comfort / convenience and water conservation more viable.

Insulation

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There are many different insulation types with varying properties including their ability to insulate. Some are more desirable than others based on the application they are used in.

What’s an R-Value? — this is the unit used to describe thermal resistance. You may have heard of RSI values too. RSI is the metric equivalent of R-values.  

There are five broad categories insulation can fall into:

1. Rigid Insulation
2. Spray Foam Insulation
3. Sprayed In Place Insulation
4. Batt Insulation
5. Loose Fill Insulation

Below is a summary of some of these more common types.

1.0    Rigid Insulation

1.1 Fibreglass (Above Grade) is designed to be used as an exterior sheathing. It is faced on one side with an air / moisture barrier to prevent water and air infiltration from lowering its R-value. R-value is 4.4 per inch (RSI 0.031/mm).

Pros — Does not support combustion well; can achieve higher R-value on exterior walls

Cons — No major disadvantages known

1.2 Fibreglass (Below Grade) is an un-faced product with a higher density than its above grade version. Designed to act as a drainage layer between the foundation wall and surrounding soil. R-value is 4.2 per inch (RSI 0.029/mm).

Pros — Does not support combustion well; can provide drainage next to a foundation wall

Cons — Can not sit in water; good drainage system required

1.3 Expanded Polystyrene is made by expanding polystyrene beads. From here it is then bonded together to form rigid boards. It comes in two densities

(1) High density board is more moisture resistant and can be used on the exterior of a foundation providing good soil and drainage conditions are present. R-value is 4.0 per inch (RSI 0.028/mm).

(2) Low density is designed for above grade applications. R-value is 3.7 per inch (RSI 0.026/mm).

Pros — Designed for interior or exterior applications where space is limited; light weight; less costly than most rigid insulations; not a skin irritant

Cons — UV (ultra violet) light degradation can occur if not protected from sunlight; must be protected from solvents and non-compatible sealants; interior applications require that it be covered with an appropriate fire rated material; low density board designed for above grade applications only

1.4 Extruded Polystyrene is a “closed cell” foam plastic board, which is made in a high and low density board version suitable for below grade applications. Low density: R-value is 4.7 per inch (RSI 0.033/mm). High density: R-value is 5.0 per inch (RSI 0.035/mm).

Pros — Designed for interior or exterior applications where space is limited; lightweight; high-density version handles relatively high pressures under concrete slabs, etc.; not a skin irritant; when joints are sealed it acts as an air barrier

Cons — UV (ultra violet) light degradation can occur if not protected from sunlight; must be protected from solvents and non-compatible sealants; interior applications require that it be covered with an appropriate fire rated material

1.5 Polyurethane & Polyisocyanurate insulations are created by the chemical reactions between poly-alcohols and isocyanurates. They are “closed cell” insulation boards. These cells contain refrigerant gases (fluorocarbons) instead of air. The boards are usually double-faced with foil, or sometimes come bonded with an interior or exterior finishing material.

Faced boards: typical R-value is 5.8 per inch (RSI 0.040) to 7.2 per inch (RSI 0.050).

Pros — Designed for interior or exterior applications where space is limited; when joints are sealed it acts as an air barrier; very high R-value per inch

Cons — UV (ultra violet) light degradation can occur if not protected from sunlight; must be protected from prolonged exposure to water / moisture; interior applications require that it be covered with an appropriate fire rated material; very expensive compared to other types of insulation

1.6 Phenolic Foam is made from phenol formaldehyde resin, and is available in open or closed cell versions. The boards usually come with a foil facing on one or both sides.
Open cell: R-value is 4.2 per inch (RSI 0.029). Closed cell: R-value of 8.3 per inch (RSI 0.058).

Pros — Designed for interior or exterior applications where space is limited; very high R-value per inch; less combustible than other rigid insulation

Cons — UV (ultra violet) light degradation can occur if not protected from sunlight; must be protected from prolonged exposure to water / moisture; most expensive rigid insulation; interior applications require that it be covered with an appropriate fire rated material

2.0 Spray Foam Insulations

2.1 Polyurethane Foam is a closed cell foam that is often pale yellow in colour used for in a wide number of spray applications. In large applications it is made on site with specialized equipment. For small single purpose uses spray cans are available. R-value is 6.0 per inch (RSI 0.042/mm).

Pros — Protects against air infiltration; fills irregular and narrow openings

Cons — Interior applications require that it be covered with an appropriate fire rated material; specialized equipment and experienced contractors required for large projects; UV (ultra violet) light degradation can occur if not protected from sunlight

2.2 Isocyanurate Plastic Foam is a two-component material, and is made from a combination of isocyanurate, resins and catalysts. It creates an open celled plastic foam insulation that is pliable. R-value is 4.3 per inch (RSI 0.030/mm).

Pros — Protects against air infiltration; fills irregular and narrow openings

Cons — Interior applications require that it be covered with an appropriate fire rated material; specialized equipment and experienced contractors required; restrictions on the thickness of the applied material

3.0 Sprayed-In-Place Insulations are loose fill products that are blown into wall cavities. During the blow-in stage the insulation is mixed with an adhesive, usually water-based, that binds the product together making a seamless batt.

3.1 Cellulose sprayed in -place has the same properties as loose fill insulation except an adhesive is added in the process to make it stick to the surface it is applied to. R-value is 3.5 per inch (RSI 0.024/mm).

Pros — Resistant to settling; resistant to air infiltration; wall cavities can be completely filled

Cons — Specialized equipment and experienced contractors required

3.2 Fibreglass that is blown in is made from the same product as fibreglass batts except that it’s chopped up and an adhesive is added in the process to make it stick to the surface it is applied to. R-value is 2.9 per inch (RSI 0.02/mm).

Pros — Resistant to settling; wall cavities can be completely filled; R-value not affected if a bit of moisture is present

Cons — Eye, skin and respiratory irritant during installation; specialized equipment and experienced contractors required

3.3 Mineral Wool (Slag and Rock Wool) is the same product as its loose fill version batts except that it’s chopped up and an adhesive is added in the process to make it stick to the surface it is applied to. Slag and rock wool: R-value is 3 per inch (RSI 0.021).

Pros — Resistant to settling; wall cavities can be completely filled; doesn’t support combustion; R-value not affected if a bit of moisture is present

Cons — Eye, skin and respiratory irritant during installation; specialized equipment and experienced contractors required

4.0 Batt Insulation is a very common form of insulation still in use today.

4.1 Fibreglass batts as its name implies are made from glass that has been spun into fibres. It is then woven and coated with a binding agent. Average R-value is 3.2 per inch (RSI 0.022/mm).

Pros — Fits standard joist & stud openings; easy to install; resistant to fire & mould; R-value not affected if a bit of moisture is present

Cons — Eye, skin and respiratory irritant during installation; doesn’t easily fit into irregular spaces; R-vale can reduce if there is air movement present; heavier materials or insulation installed over it may compress it

4.2 Mineral Wool (Slag and Rock Wool) is manufactured from molten industrial slag that is then made into a fibre and treated so it suppresses dust and maintains its shape. Similar in looks to fibreglass with regard to texture and appearance. Rock Wool is made in a similar manner but natural rock is used instead of slag. Slag & Rock Wool: Average R-value is 3.3 per inch (RSI 0.023).

Pros –Fits standard joist & stud openings; easy to install; insulation good around chimneys as it doesn’t support combustion; R-value not affected if a bit of moisture is present

Cons — Eye, skin and respiratory irritant during installation; doesn’t easily fit into irregular spaces; R-value can reduce if there is air movement present; heavier materials or insulation installed over it may compress it

5.0 Loose Fill Insulation is likely the most common form of insulation used today.

5.1 Cellulose Fibre insulation is made from finely shredded newspaper. It is then is chemically treated to resist fire and mould growth.

Blown Cellulose: Average R-value is 3.6 per inch (RSI 0.025/mm). This is dependant on the chemical mix, paper type and density it is blown in at. Blown cellulose can be installed in vertical wall cavities using a variety of specially designed, reinforced interior sheeting products.

Poured Cellulose: Average R-value is 3.4 per inch (RSI 0.024/mm).

Pros — Fills irregular horizontal spaces; blown-In cellulose can be installed with rented equipment or hand poured; chemical additives provide resistance to fire, corrosion, vermin and mould; R-value not affected if a bit of moisture is present

Cons — Heavier materials or insulation installed over it may compress it; product settles over time; must install to manufacturer’s specifications in order to achieve desired R-value

5.2 Fibreglass

Blown Fibreglass is largely no different than fibreglass batts, except that the material is ‘chopped up’. R-value is 2.9 per inch (RSI 0.02/mm).

Poured Fibreglass has basically the same properties as the blown product. R-value is R-3 per inch (RSI 0.021/mm).

Pros — Fills irregular horizontal spaces; resistant to fire & and mould; R-value not affected if a bit of moisture is present

Cons — Eye, skin and respiratory irritant during installation; heavier materials or insulation installed over it may compress it

5.3 Mineral Wool (Slag and Rock Wool) The loose fill version of this product has the same properties as its batt insulation.

Blown Mineral Wool: R-value of 2.7 per inch (RSI 0.019
Poured Mineral Wool has basically the properties as the blown product. R-value is R-3.0 per inch (RSI 0.021).

Pros — Insulation good around chimneys as it doesn’t support combustion; R-value not affected if a bit of moisture is present; fills irregular horizontal spaces

Cons — Eye, skin and respiratory irritant during installation; heavier materials or insulation installed over it may compress it

5.4 Vermiculite is a mineral product that when heated expands to form a lightweight insulating material. There are two types of vermiculite:

Treated vermiculite: coated with asphalt to make it water-resistant. Average R-value is 2.5 per inch (RSI 0.017/mm)

Untreated vermiculite — absorbs water. Average R-value is 2.3 per inch (RSI 0.016/mm).

Pros — Pours easily into irregular spaces; not combustible; non-abrasive, odourless and non-irritating

Cons — Dries very slowly after becoming wet; typically not used in high R-value applications

5.5 Wood Shavings were often treated with lime or other chemicals to increase their resistance to water / moisture, fire and mould growth.

Average R-value is 2.44 per inch (RSI 0.0169/mm).

Pros — Readily available & inexpensive

Cons — Low R-value; dries very slowly after becoming wet; difficult to treat against fire, vermin and mould growth; can settle over time.

Integrated Heating Systems

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What are integrated heating systems? A combination, or integrated, heating system is one that provides domestic hot water and heating from one source. The fuel for the heat source could be gas, oil, or, electric. The heat source itself is either a hot water heater or solar panel. The most common is a gas or oil fired water heater connected to a combination air handler.

The system works via a room thermostat controlling a circulating pump that calls on hot water from the tank. Cool house air then passes over hot water in the air handler’s coil producing an even heat through the home’s ductwork.

Some typical advantages to integrated heating systems include:

  • Only one heat source to install and service
  • Water heaters are often less complicated and more reliable than furnaces
  • Much less expensive to install than a water heater and mid-efficiency furnace when the cost of venting is considered
  • Additional zone/area heating can be installed and controlled by a separate thermostat
  • Cheaper to operate than separate, or traditional, forced air furnace and hot water heater systems
  • Quieter than furnaces

Aside from using and air handler or forced air system, the domestic hot water heater can used with other heat delivery systems such as hydronic baseboards, ceiling radiant panels, baseboards, and, in floor radiant systems.

Is There A Doctor In The House – Suggestions & Tips #42

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Have you seen the house doctor lately? How is your house feeling these days? Just like you’d see your doctor each year for your annual check-up, houses need them too!

Many people think you only get an inspection done before you buy a home. Inspecting your existing home will assist you in determining what repairs or maintenance items are required, and prioritize them so you know what needs to be done right away or later on down the road. It also addresses safety issues in the home you may be overlooking too!

An inspection can help you with upcoming renovations or that addition you’re planning to your home. Find out if your new roof was done right before you pay for it. If you’re selling a house, having it inspected before you list it for sale avoids surprises. Determine if there are things you’d like to fix before selling you home. On the other hand, if you are a caregiver or know of a loved one that would like to stay in their home a bit longer and make it safer, an inspection can help with that too.

Has your house had a check-up lately?

Home is where your heart is. Call to make an appointment for your check-up today!

Jack Posts – Suggestions & Tips #142

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jack posts

Need support? Just add jack posts, right? No, it’s not that simple. It’s one thing to use it to take a squeak out of a floor perhaps, and quite another to support the weight of the load above.

Jack posts go by different names including tele-posts, lally column and adjustable steel posts / columns. The term “jack” refers to the jack screw used to adjust the height of the post.

Anytime you are dealing with ‪‎a support post, there a few things you need to keep in mind. They need to be installed properly, as well as mechanically fastened at their top & bottom plates. If under a wood beam, the top plate on the jack post should be as wide as the beam (see left picture). The post itself should be plumb and centered on the beam (see centre picture). The beam and support posts should be sufficient to carry the desired load above. If the beam does not rest on a foundation wall (or in a beam pocket) there should be jack posts on each end of the beam to support it, not cantilevered (see right picture).

Not sure about the jack posts in your house? Thinking of adding some support? Get it ‪inspected!

 

Keeping Cool

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In warmer weather there are a few things you can do to keep it cool around the house – many of them don’t cost a cent. Although heat pumps and air conditioning systems can make short work of cooling down a home there are some other ways as well. Here are our tips for keeping cool.

Awnings and blinds are an effective tool at restricting the amount of hot sun entering a home. Just as you would let sun into your home in the winter to warm it up the reverse is true in the summer. If need be you can always open the window while the blind is down to provide air circulation too. Opening the blind in the evening when it’s cooler will also allow warmer air, inside the house, to transfer back outside.

Even though it gets hotter outside it’s also a good idea look at the amount of insulation in the home. If there’s insufficient insulation in the attic space chances are heat will transfer into the home. Good ventilation, using vents or exhaust fans, in the attic will also cool things down and maximize the life of your shingles at the same time.

Make sure all window and door screens are in good condition. A good breeze is always welcome on those unbearably hot days. Dehumidifiers will also assist with removing warm moist air and provide a cooler, dryer, space.

If you just can’t stand the heat any longer there are a variety of air conditioning units and heat pumps on the market that will get you cooled down right away. If you already have an air conditioning system remember that before you turn it on each season that it must have power supplied to it for 24 to 48 hours, depending on the model. Don’t forget to turn the power off again in the fall to conserve energy. Check dampers on the duct work also to ensure they are set properly to maximize your comfort level.

Knob and Tube Wiring

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What is knob and tube wiring? It gets its name from the knobs (or insulators) used to keep the wires isolated from objects & the ceramic tubes used to line holes, for example, through wooden floor joists. Knob and tube wiring can be found in homes built pre-1950 unless it has been updated. You may find it with older 60 amp (or less) services.

What are the differences with this type of wiring and that used today? — although the actual wire used may largely be no different from that used today, it consists of only a hot (black) and neutral (white) wire. That is, there is no ground wire. Both wires must run separately to fixtures as opposed to those used now, which are contained within one plastic sheathing. In addition, junction boxes for housing electrical connections were seldom, if ever, used.

Although it is a workable system, and safe when installed and used properly, there are some concerns with this system. For example:

a)    there is no ground wire (for more modern lifestyle requirements and safety),
b)    a fear exists that the black and white wires can make contact (a potential fire and safety hazard),
c)    the rubber and cloth insulation around the knob & tube wiring breaks down over time (a potential fire and safety hazard), and,
d)    it would be too costly to maintain, or even, install this type of wiring today.

Tip: Some insurance companies are now refusing to provide homeowners insurance on houses with knob and tube wiring.

Landscaping – Suggestions & Tips #65

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landscaping

Landscaping your home not only looks great, but adds value and curb appeal.

Unfortunately, done incorrectly it can cause all sorts of issues with your house allowing water to enter the home. Grading your lot & improper drainage are often responsible for many common household troubles like cracked slabs or water penetration into the basement / crawlspace. However, you can improve bad drainage by:

  • re-grading around the house
  • installing extensions on downspouts
  • providing positive drainage away from the foundation.

Your landscaping efforts can be misleading sometimes too. While building up flower beds around the house looks nice, it may not be doing you any favours. Don’t build-up soil / mulch around the house as the grade level should be a good 6”-8” below the bottom of your brick / siding line. Having the soil too high around the house is not advisable as the foundation wall is not damp proofed / tarred above “grade level”. Further, at the junction of the foundation wall and base course of the bricks, for example, is an opportunity for water to enter is not sealed. Even so, the weep holes (or vent holes) in between the bricks along this bottom course can allow water in as well. If the house is sided, having the grade too high can rot the siding itself (if wood) or the building materials behind the siding.

If the soil / grade level around the perimeter of  house is okay but the yard slopes towards your home it can be a costly endeavour to correct as you either have to remove all the other soil in the yard so it slopes away or look to other means of mechanical drainage likely in order to evacuate water any potential water.

Plants around your house can be beneficial in assisting with surface water as they need plenty of water. Having your plantings up & against the house can cause other concerns with damage to its exterior and even retaining water / moisture against the house.

Done incorrectly, underground sprinklers / irrigation systems can add too much water around the house as well.

If you’re thinking of landscaping, do you home work first!

Lead Poisoning – Suggestions & Tips #18

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lead

Lead has serious health, safety & environmental issues related to it. Canada Mortgage & Housing (CMHC) states that lead is what is known as a neurotoxicant or a brain poison. Even in very small amounts, lead can harm the developing brain and nervous system of fetuses and young children, which can lead to behavioural and learning difficulties. Lead can also interfere with the way that hemoglobin (the oxygen carrying part of blood) is produced. Lead can disturb processes essential to vitamin D and calcium metabolism. Chronic, or long-term lead exposure, can lead to high blood pressure and peripheral vascular disease.

Humans are being exposed to lead from numerous sources including, paint pigments, automobile and industrial emissions, surface and ground water, and some forms of solder. Common household examples of where lead may be found include:

  • water, water supply pipes, solder joints for water supply pipes
  • dinnerware
  • pottery & ceramics (most commonly form Mexico and Italy)
  • toys
  • soil & dust
  • food cans
  • antiques
  • furniture
  • inexpensive imported mini-blinds have been found to be lead contaminated

The level of exposure to lead by the general public to lead has significantly decreased over in the past decades due to restrictions in the use of lead as an additive in gasoline, paint and solder. It is generally agreed that there is no safe level of lead exposure, although risk of suffering adverse health effects from lead poisoning exposure will decline as exposure declines.

For the most part, in Canada:

  • Lead in paint was reduced or eliminated in the mid 1970s. It is best to assume that a dwelling constructed before 1960 contains leaded paint.
  • Lead in solder, used for tin cans and drinking water pipes, was reduced or eliminated in the mid to late 1980s.
  • Lead additives in gasoline were eliminated for most applications in the early 1990s.

There may be potential liabilities associated with homes containing lead e.g. they may have a stigma attached to them that may affect the value of the home perhaps; and, there may be costs associated with any removal / disposal of lead. If present, remedial action may be required that can be costly in some instances, for example, based on the quantities present, its’ location, etc.

If you’re concerned about lead in your home or building, consult a professional.

Click here for more information on Lead Poisoning.

Lead Poisoning in the Home

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Recent concerns related to lead have prompted many questions. The following is intended to provide insight into why lead is a problem and some of the common sources of lead.

Why is Lead a Problem? — Lead, a heavy metal, can accumulate in the body when consumed orally and interfere with chemical reactions in the body. It can result in decreased performance in school, permanent learning disabilities, kidney problems, liver damage, nerve problems, high blood pressure, immune system failure, convulsion, comma, brain damage, and in severe cases, death. In pregnant women, lead poisoning can lead to premature birth and babies with low birth weight, mental retardation, nerve damage, and impaired blood formation, and to infant mortality. Serious learning and behaviour disabilities are seven times more likely to occur in children exposed to low-levels of lead over an extended time (New England Journal of Medicine — 01/11/90). Lead poisoning in children can seriously damage a child’s brain and central nervous system. It can also cause attention span deficits, impaired hearing, reading and learning disabilities, and even, reduced IQ scores.

Although adults may suffer various ailments due to excessive lead in their blood, the groups most at risk from exposure to lead are fetuses, infants, and children under seven. Since the fetus is at risk from high blood-lead levels in the mother, pregnant women and women of child bearing age must also be aware of the hazards of high blood-lead levels. Children are especially at high risk because they routinely ingest non-food items contaminated with lead.

How serious is the lead poisoning problem? In the US a study by National Health & Nutrition showed that of those surveyed, 50% of the adults and 88% of the pre-school children had high blood-lead levels. Of those, 9.1% met the Centres for Disease Control standards for lead poisoning. Approximately 3 to 40 million American children have damaging levels of lead in their blood. The US Food and Drug Administration has found that nearly 10% of all imported ceramics may release lead into food.

Lead is considered dangerous at any level.

Sources of Lead — Humans are being exposed to lead from numerous sources including, paint pigments, automobile and industrial emissions, surface and ground water, and some forms of solder. Common household examples of where lead can be found may include, water, dinnerware, pottery & ceramics (most commonly form Mexico and Italy), toys, soil, dust, food cans, antiques, and furniture. Most recently, inexpensive imported mini-blinds, have been found to be lead contaminated.

Lead dust is a special concern because the smaller lead particles can be more easily transported and absorbed by the body. For example, lead-based paint dust can come from the normal abrasion of painted surfaces such as the opening and closing of windows. For young children this can be hazardous because they play on the floor and engage in a great deal of hand-mouth activity.

In soil, lead dust can accumulate and contaminate it. For years, lead-based exterior paints were designed to “chalk”, or lose some their surface when they are washed off by rain, to remain looking newer. For younger children who play in this soil or track it into the house it can increase lead levels in the home.

Leasing? – Suggestions & Tips #47

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leasing

When it comes to commercial buildings, an inspection just makes sense when buying. But what about leasing?

The same may hold true as well given the lessee may want to make certain costly leasehold improvements. In fact, depending on your lease, you may be responsible for “maintenance” related items on the building and or the replacement of items when they wear out such as the HVAC system.

In addition, if the building requires attention, you’ll want to ensure that repairs are made not only for your convenience and comfort, but for the safety of its occupants.

If you’re considering buying or leasing a commercial building, your due diligence should include a building inspection.

Looking for a Date? – Suggestions & Tips #101

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Do you find the whole dating thing intimidating? Does age really matter? Dating a house can provide plenty of useful information!

When buying a house, dating them can help provide useful information about the replacement of systems / components and such. Some air conditioners have a life expectancy of 10-15 years, so a house built 10-15 years ago will likely be in need a new air conditioner shortly. Houses built in the 1990’s with organic asphalt roof shingles lasted up to 15 years. Today, they will likely be on their second roof, and perhaps in need of their next. Houses built in 1999 on the other hand will likely not have asbestos containing vermiculite insulation in them.

Here are some clues that may help in determining ages:

Clues Outside the Home:

  • Look for dates on manhole covers, sidewalks or curbs
  • Quite often a survey of the home will show an original date at the bottom of it.
  • Check manuals, installation specifications and warranties on the various systems and components of the home to obtain dates.
  • If original blueprints are available, check it for dates.
  • Get dates about title to the property from the land registry office.
  • Find out when building permits were issued from local municipalities.

Clues Inside the Home:

  • Thermopane windows often have a metal strip between the panes of glass with the date of manufacture (check several windows)
  • After 1974 or so, look for a sticker on the electrical panel showing the “Date of Possession”. TARION (formerly The Ontario New Home Warranty Program, and before that HUDAC) placed stickers on the electrical panel to identify the warranty period.
  • Look for installation stickers or gas tags hanging from gas piping for the furnace and hot water heater. If original, it may be a date indicator. Gas valves inside the furnace cabinet are often date stamped as are blowers / fans for the furnace.
  • Look for dates on labels of the electric breaker box. If the UL symbol is on this tag, immediately below it is the month and year of approval, a date within 5 years of installation perhaps.
  • Porcelain plumbing fixtures may be date stamped inside. Check the toilet tank lid or inside the tank near the water line. The date inside the tank may be more reliable than the date on the lid because lids may break and get replaced. Again, you must look for other clues to convince yourself that the toilet is an original one. Otherwise, you have only established the date when the bathroom was renovated. A toilet tank or lid without a date stamp means that it was probably manufactured after 1990.
  • Raised numbers on iron fixtures or numbers stenciled in white on the underside of bath, kitchen and laundry sinks indicate the date of manufacture.
  • Oh yes…if the original homeowner is present, ask them: “When was this house built?”

Dates can be very informative about the home’s systems & components, and assist not only with when replacement might be due, but offer clues as to construction methods, when certain items may have been required by code in it as well as the age of the home itself.

Think you can date a house? Take the Dating Game Quiz now!

Lot Grading for Your Foundation – Suggestions & Tips #5

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lot grading

Does your lot slope towards your house? What about a patio or deck?

We recommend your downspouts have diverters or extensions on them to direct water at least 6′ away from the house and garage. Creating and maintaining adequate drainage slopes with proper lot grading around a building can reduce the risk of water leakage or seepage into basement and crawlspace areas.

Factors contributing to water penetration issues into basements / crawlspaces can include soil adjacent to a building that causes water to pond or that is flat / sloped toward the foundation; sidewalks that act as a barrier to drainage or that have a negative slope toward the foundation; planters that trap water; and, gravel that discourages drainage of water away from the foundation.

Water / moisture penetration into your home can cause all sorts of issues including damage not only to your personal belongings but the structure itself and or building materials such as wood & drywall. Of course, with entry of water into your home you run good chance of promoting mould growth too.

Marijuana Grow Op…or Not? – Suggestions & Tips #99

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marijuana grow op

If you’re looking to buy a home that was a former marijuana grow op, you had best take a long hard look at it. There are many things which can impact the home itself as well as the occupants health.

There are many signs that a house may have been a marijuana grow-op, here are just a few:

  • modifications made to the ventilation, vents / venting or ductwork
  • no snow is present on the roof compared with other homes in the neighbourhood
  • there is enhanced security outdoors
  • stains are evident on exterior walls
  • condensation / high humidity present on windows and or walls
  • the electrical service, meter and or distribution panel has been tampered with
  • there are concealed entryways
  • signs of mould suspected
  • there is an odd / peculiar odour in the home
  • the home has considerable water hoses / electrical cords present
  • electrical work has not been professionally done, improvised / modified
  • there are holes in the foundation wall, floors or ceilings
  • round stains on the floors where suspected plants sat

Your lender and or homeowner’s insurance broker may not lend on a home that was a former marijuana grow-op or have additional requirements of you before lending on the property. If you’re paying cash or find an alternate lender  willing to lend against the home, keep in that whoever you sell it to down the road may have those requirements imposed on them.

Keep in mind…not all houses that are used as a marijuana grow-op are caught by the police. As a result, the homes don’t get labelled as a “marijuana grow-op” and worse yet can go undetected. One more reason you’ll want to have the house thoroughly inspected before buying.

If you have concerns that the house you are buying may have been a marijuana grow-op, talk to your realtor and or lawyer…and no matter what, get it inspected!

Masonry

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Masonry is made up of a number of items including brick, stone, terra cotta, concrete, stucco, tile, and mortar. Masonry is used on cornices, pediments, lintels, sills, and decorative features, as well as for wall surfaces. Colour, texture, mortar joint type, and patterns of the masonry help to define overall characteristics of a building. Brick can be used for the construction of building walls, retaining walls, fencing, and chimneys.

Look for damage caused by the improper cleaning such as chipped or pitted brick, washed-out mortar, rounded edges of brick, or, a residue or film.

Maintenance – as with so many things, proper maintenance is the key to longevity. Here are some guidelines:

  • Respect and retain, where possible, all masonry elements that are important in defining the overall character of the building.
  • Monitor water drainage and the effects of weather on mortar ensuring there’s no wear & tear.
  • Direct water away from the base of a wall by at least six feet by ensuring proper lot grading and extensions on downspouts.
  • Install a damp-proof course just above the ground level to prevent dampness from wicking up.
  • Don’t apply waterproof, water repellent, or sealants in an effort to stop moisture problems as they often trap moisture inside the masonry and cause spalling (the breaking off of the brick surface).
  • Repair or replace leaking roofs, eavestroughs and downspouts. Ensure proper flashing is in place.
  • Repair all cracks in masonry and joints to prevent moisture penetration.
  • Caulk all joints between masonry and other building materials, such as, window frames to prevent water penetration.

Cleaning – This should be done only when necessary to stop wear and tear or to remove heavy soiling. Some procedures to follow include:

  • Clean unpainted masonry using the least abrasive method possible, for example, a low pressure water wash with detergents and natural bristle brushes.
  • Test cleaners on a small unnoticeable spot of the building, using a non-abrasive method. Try a more abrasive way only if necessary. Let your test spot dry thoroughly before carrying on and check for surface deterioration or discolouration.
  • Detergents and pressure washing of older brick may cause damage, as the brick is too soft.
  • Sandblasting, high-pressure washes and other abrasive cleaning methods should not be used, as it wears the protective surface of the brick allowing, for example, moisture to be wicked up. Any freeze-thaw action then causes spalling (the breaking off if the brick surface).
  • Chemical cleaners should be used sparingly and not where damage masonry is caused. Chemical cleaners should be washed off and removed from the masonry as soon as recommended.
  • Don’t use water or water-based chemicals in freezing temperatures.

Painting & Waterproofing

  • As a general rule, leave unpainted masonry unpainted.
  • Remove deteriorated paint only to the next sound layer by hand scraping. Don’t remove paint that is well adhered, as this could damage the masonry.
  • If masonry needs repainting, clean it thoroughly, allow it to dry, prime the surface with an appropriate masonry primer, and repaint with appropriate masonry paint. Use water-repellent breathable paint coatings, only as a last resort.

Repointing — Disintegrating mortar, cracks in mortar joints, loose bricks, or damaged plasterwork may signal the need for repair of masonry.

  • Remove deteriorated mortar by carefully hand raking the joints to avoid damaging the masonry. Don’t use power tools and be mindful of the surrounding masonry.
  • Duplicate existing mortar in strength. Do not repoint with stronger mortar as the brick expands and contracts with temperature. Do not use synthetic caulking or sealants.
  • Duplicate the composition of the mortar. Older brick buildings have a higher lime and sand content than new ones.
  • Duplicate the appearance of old mortar joints in width and profile. Cut out old mortar to a depth of one inch.

Other Repairs

  • Repair damaged masonry elements if possible, by patching, piecing in, or, joining to match the original instead of replacing a masonry feature.
  • Repair stucco by removing loose material and patching with a new material that is similar in composition, colour, and texture.
  • Patch stones in small areas with a cement-like material that like mortar should be weaker than the masonry being repaired.
  • Consider using epoxies for the repair of broken stone or carved details.

Masonry brick & concrete block wall cracks – Suggestions & Tips #158

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cracked brickwork

Are cracks in masonry brick or concrete block walls serious? The answer is yes and no. It depends on a number of factors including the number of cracks, size of the crack (length, width, depth), the impact it’s having on the bricks or blocks in their field including the direction they are heading. First, it’s important to understand what these bricks & blocks do.

Bricks – Today, the brickwork on homes is referred to as brick veneer. It’s not made of thin pieces of brick, rather a single width or row of non-load bearing brick that typically rests on, and is supported by, a poured concrete or masonry foundation wall system. As the brick is built up higher on the wall, metal straps (or ties) are anchored in the mortar and tied to the wood stud wall behind them providing lateral support. The bricks are used like an exterior cladding / siding on a home. Older homes were constructed using double-brick, brick & block or solid masonry construction. These bricks are placed in rows like the brick veneer with another layer behind them. They are joined together with metal ties or bricks turned ninety degrees (90O) to the two layers every so many courses. In this case, the double-brick construction forms a structural component of the building.

Concrete Blocks – Concrete blocks are commonly used for infill or structural purposes (such as a foundation wall), and installed in one layer / depth. The size of the block is determined based on the application. Some blocks are wider to carry heavier loads from above. Depending on the length of a concrete foundation wall, a buttress wall may be required on the inside basement wall to support the block wall from bowing inward. The concrete blocks are installed similar to brick, however as they are hollow they can be filled with concrete and or rebar for additional strength.

Types of Cracks – (1) Hair line cracks, or step cracks that follow the mortar joints of the brickwork, are often not serious.

(2) Cracks that are vertical and run directly through the bricks or blocks themselves may be a structural concern. If the cracks in the wall are “V” shaped, such that the opening of the crack is wider at the top or the bottom, it may be an indicator of a structural concern as well.

(3) Horizontal / lateral cracks are often thought to be a structural concern. Sometimes the wall will bow or buckle in along the horizontal crack. The horizontal mortar joint may appear like it is separating from the brick or block. Other times, the crack may be directly through the brick / block themselves.

(4) Cracks in bricks, blocks and or mortar joints that cause the brick / block to be out of plane with the rest of the wall may be can be a structural concern too.

It’s important to note that a crack can simply be an indicator of something which is afoot with your wall or foundation which has not fully presented itself yet. Sometimes, the crack may need to be monitored for movement. Learn more about monitoring a crack. In order for a crack to be “structural” or not in nature, it’s often referred to as being “live or dead”. This cannot be determined by just looking at it, so a professional should determine whether monitoring is appropriate in the circumstance.

Don’t ignore cracks in your brickwork or concrete blocks. Be proactive before it gets out of hand.

Melted Wires & Overheated Connections – Suggestions & Tips #126

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melted wires

What can cause melted wires or connections to overheat? It may be as a result of of a number of things, for example:

  • a loose connection
  • a wire pulled from its termination screw
  • wire insulation under the connection screw
  • the metal wire itself may have deteriorated
  • a defective device such as a circuit breaker, receptacle, light switch
  • improper wiring methods
  • a broken wire

Often before things stop working, the connection carries current but through a bad conductor it typically creates heat. Often, it takes years for an overheated connection to reach the point where power is disrupted. However, with heat and electrical connections you have the real risk of a potential fire / shock hazard.

If you’re unsure about your homes’ electrical, melted wires or overheated connections – get it inspected!

Metal Joist Hangers – Suggestions & Tips #139

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metal joist hangers

One of the most common fasteners used in a home is a metal joist hanger, perhaps for your deck or to hold up the first floor of your home. Chances are that you likely have them at your home, or should.

While inspecting homes, we often encounter two catastrophic issues with them:

  1. the hangers have not been completely nailed off i.e. each hole in the joist hanger has not been attached with a fastener; and,
  2. the type of fastener used is incorrect. Not just any nail / screw will do! Generally, only joist hanger nails designed to carry the load of the hanger should be used. Alternatively,connector screws specifically designed for this task can be used.

If you’re not sure whether you require metal joist hangers or if your joist hangers are mechanically fastened properly, get it inspected!

Mice Problems – Suggestions & Tips #125

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mice problems

Do you have mice problems? If so, it can be a nightmare if not quickly put under control…when that mouse trap or two aren’t getting the job done.

In the fall, mice are looking for food and warmth, and what mouse wouldn’t prefer the inside of your house to outside. To keep them at bay, here are a few things you can try:

  • get rid of any potential food sources for mice
  • clean the inside of cupboards & use glass / metal containers for dry foods
  • seal any openings outside on the home’s exterior that would allow mice into your house
  • set out traps baited with peanut butter or chocolate
  • check traps often and if you don’t get any mice, relocate the traps.

There are different types of traps, some which kill and other that trap for release. You can also use poison bait, but you will want this in its own tamper proof container so that children, infants and pets can not be affected by them.

Be aware that mice can carry infectious diseases, so if they get into your food throw it away. Wear gloves when handling mice or traps, and wash your hands and affected areas after finishing up with any mice escapades.

If you are not gaining control, contact a licensed exterminator for further professional advice.

Mold in Your Attic? – Suggestions & Tips #137

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mould in attic

When was the last time you went into your attic? Not many people go in them but it’s important for a number of reasons including to see if there is mold in your attic.

If homeowner‬s do venture into their attic, it can often be quite revealing. It may have kitchen or bathroom exhaust fans that vent into them and not to the exterior of the home. Their vent pipes might not have insulation or vapour barriers on them. The attic may have poor ‪‎ventilation at the soffit or ridge area, not enough insulation or poor vapour barriers. All of these can contribute to heat loss, and when the cold attic surfaces are met with that heat loss condensation occurs. This can cause water / moisture damage to the building materials and or create hoar frost from the condensation freezing. All of these can be perfect conditions for growing ‪‎mold‬, and we see it more often than you might think. If it is present, the task then becomes how can your control mould or abate it.

Mold needs two things to grow – some form of moisture (water leak, condensation, ice) as well as organic material (lumber, paper) to feed on. If you have mold, you indoor air quality (IAQ) may be at risk.

Are you unsure about what’s lurking in your attic or what the next steps might be? Get it inspected!

More Environmental Issues

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The internet is awash in warnings about toxins in our environment. Here are some tips for reducing toxins indoors.

Microwave Leakage — anyone with a heart pacemaker should take special note to microwave radiation exposure. Microwave energy emissions can cause numerous adverse health effects. It’s cheap insurance to have your own microwave leakage detector.

Water Quality — contaminants like lead, rust, chlorine as well as hardness can be checked to determine quality. A recent concern to many is excess chlorinating of water supplies. Organic material combined with excess chlorine can form Trihalomethanes, a suspected carcinogen. The Region of Waterloo placed notices in newspapers telling of the danger to aquarium fish. It’s curious why this warning was restricted to fish only? Children drink more water than goldfish.

Low pH levels increase the occurrence of lead dissolved in drinking water from brass and copper fittings held by lead solder joints. A simple test will tell you the pH level of your water. Thus you can determine if a water softener or water filter is needed, rather than be at the mercy of an eager salesperson that needs the sale.

Toxic Pesticides — It is now known that lawn sprays applied outdoors can actually enter you home. Several cases have revealed that levels of toxicity can be as high as reading taken outdoors. The effects to animals are conclusive. One study that comes to mind is that of canine cancer. Dogs exposed to lawns recently sprayed four times a year, developed cancer 50% of the time within two years.

Indoor Allergens — Dust mites have been implicated in the production of allergens that represent a risk for sensitization or acute attacks of asthma. Corrective measures can be taken to reduce concentration of these airborne threats.

Mentioned here are only a few of the possible checks that can be done to ensure a safer indoor environment at home or at work. Tests prove that 80% of all homes have hazardous conditions unknown to the inhabitants. The only way to know is test. This will help you “find out”. Many times the “fix” is simple and easy for most anyone to perform.

It’s a comfort to know that there’s finally an easy and simple way to know the state of our indoor environment.

Mothballs – Suggestions & Tips #64

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mothballs

Originally made of camphor, mothballs now commonly contain naphthalene or para-dichlorobenzene. Both naphthalene and para-dichlorobenzene change from a solid to a gas, or evaporate, and are toxic to moths and moth larvae. When clothing was stored, moths may eat away at the clothing and damage it. As a result, they are often used with stored clothing to prevent damage from from moths.

Some people use mothballs in an attempt to keep animals away like skunks. They might broadcast them under a deck or hang them in a bag as a deterrent. They are an annoyance to animals, but often have to be in large quantities which can annoy people as well.

For humans, the gas produced by moth balls is irritating to our eyes and lungs. It may also cause headaches, dizziness, nausea and is a suspected carcinogen. As mothballs can have serious health & safety issues, for example, if a baby or child ingests the mothball or inhales them. Consequently, extreme caution should be taken, if used at all.

Mould Colours – Suggestions & Tips #121

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mould colours

Mould colours? That’s right, mould comes in pretty much every colour of the rainbow…but it’s no pot of gold! No matter what the mould colour is, you don’t want it in your home. Depending on the quantity of mould in your home, it can be a homeowner cleanup. Larger areas will require professional remediation / abatement.

While we often hear of “black mold” (or Stachybotrys) as being the toxic mould, however many other coloured moulds are toxic as well. In fact, mould can get their colour from what they feed upon. Mould needs two things to live: some form of water, moisture, high humidity, condensation as well as organic material to feed on like paper, wood, dirt.

Mould can have severe health & safety issues related to it and because their spores are microscopic you can’t always seem them, but you may be reacting to them. These symptoms can mimic those of a cold / flu. In more severe cases you may have, for example, an allergic reaction  or upper respiratory issues.

If you have concerns about mould, speak with a professional regarding what next steps might make sense. Click here for information about Grassroots® indoor air quality and mould testing services.

Mould, Mildew and Fungus

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Ever wonder why you’re sneezing, or coughing. How about a runny nose, sore throat, or upper respiratory discomfort.  Mould, yeast and fungus can cause these allergic reactions. Severely allergic people like asthmatics can have trouble breathing. Other effects can include hay fever, headaches, depression, fatigue, dizziness, lethargy, fever, digestive problems, chronic nasal drip and influenza. If you are sensitive to moulds avoid products that are made from or with the use of fungi, such as, yoghurt, baked goods (yeast), mushrooms, cheese, smoked meats, and, leftovers.

Why should you be concerned?

  • 85% of all homes have mould.
  • 10% to 35% of all homes have serious mould contamination.
  • Prolonged exposure can cause anyone to develop an allergy.

Moulds are “growths” that are formed on organic materials by several types of fungi. There are various types of mould and they come in a variety of colours including black, red, green, blue and white. Spores may be released into the indoor air by the mould, and once airborne the spores can remain there for long periods of time. Exposure to extended high humidity or water damage can awaken dormant mould spores.

Mould growth occurs in areas of the home that are excessively moist, have high humidity levels, low levels of light and poor ventilation/circulation. In the summer, growth is usually much more rapid than in winter, due to the increase in heat and humidity.

Relative humidity (Rh) can often be controlled with humidifiers and dehumidifiers. Cooking, showers, plants, drying laundry indoors, all contribute to increased Rh. Newer homes generally are more air tight, trapping water and moisture. In your attic, it could come from bathroom or kitchen fans not properly vented outside or not sealed to the ceiling finish. Access doors to the attic may not be sealed properly. There may be insufficient insulation and/or vapour barrier for recessed ceiling light fixtures. Other areas include dryers not vented outside, a bare dirt crawl space, a damp or wet basement, or, passageways from the basement to the attic through unsealed spots along the rim joists.

Testing for mould on surfaces, mould analysis, and, air-borne mould testing is available from Grassroots®. Avoiding mould mildew and fungus contamination is important for your health.

Tip: Don’t open basement windows in the summer. The warm outside air when it meets the cooler basement air can cause condensation to form on basement walls.

Multiple Offers & Home Inspections – Suggestions & Tips #144

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falling down house

When more than one buyer is interested in a property it creates a unique situation for both the home buyer & seller. When there are multiple offers (or competing offers) buyers may be tempted to exclude a clause in their offer making it conditional upon a home inspection.

For a seller, this might be attractive at first blush however the buyer may learn later that things weren’t as they first seemed and come back against the vendor. No matter who might be successful at the end of the day, it has the potential for being an unpleasant experience…for seeming a short term gain.

RECO (Real Estate Council of Ontario) says that buyers who exclude a home inspection clause in their offer to purchase “may later learn that there are property defects, required repairs or needed upgrades that you weren’t aware of. In some cases, this can be expensive in the short or long-term. Foregoing a home inspection is a significant risk that a buyer needs to carefully consider.” Not surprisingly, we get calls after the fact to inspect those homes when recourse options are few.

If you are making one of the multiple offers, protect yourself…get it inspected!

Nature of the Inspection & Representations – Suggestions & Tips #92

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nature of the inspectionThe nature of the inspection on a home is one which needs to be explained carefully. It may mean something different to everyone.

Some may feel that an inspection unearths everything about the house – the good, bad & the ugly. The reality is that isn’t possible on a number of levels. The inspection is visual in nature and is not technically exhaustive. Given the time spent / allowed for an inspection during on a real estate transaction and the amount of money most want to spend for an inspection based on a home they don’t even own yet yields results which are good…but they are not intended to be perfect nor flawless.

Here’s one great example. In the process of performing a visual home inspection, the inspector must assume that there is no fraud, concealment, cover-up or misrepresentation on the part of the vendor or anyone else for that matter. To approach the inspection on some other level would take significant time and money for the potential home buyer. The vendor’s may not permit such an extensive investigation of their home or be willing to offer up such a considerable length of time in the home to even do this. Further, this type of inspection would not be warranted in all cases in the first place. As a result, the inspection is not a forensic audit of the home and it does not set out to look for such.

In addition, the inspector may make inquiries of their client, the buyer, vendor, realtor or others during the inspection process and will rely on this information & representations in performing the inspection, in the absence of any other readily visible evidence.

Please take the time to understand the nature of the inspection, the limitations and exceptions of performing a visual home inspection. If you feel something more is warranted, talk to your home inspector about it and get quotes for this added work.

 

Newly Constructed Homes & Projects – Suggestions & Tips #162

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newly_constructed_homes_&_projects

There’s often a misconception that if you purchase a newly constructed home / condominium, or if you are having one custom built for you, that all will be fine. After all, municipal building officials will be inspecting the work and if you are acquiring a newly built home in Ontario, it will be covered under the New Home Warranties Plan Act with Tarion.

Unfortunately, it doesn’t always turn out the way you might hope. Inspections by municipal building officials ensure that there is compliance in meeting minimum building code standards. They do compliance testing, not detailed step by step substantive testing. It does not look out for or enforce those items you requested be part of the house or that were contracted for.

The Tarion new home warranty while covering plenty is not intended to cover all situations. It also has staggered coverage over a limited time period. It does not apply to renovations, alterations, additions or a house that you build yourself (e.g. where you are the general contractor) unless you choose to purchase that optional coverage.

Take for example the pictures shown above: The poor installation and placement of a window (top left). An attic with missing insulation can cause problems with ice damning, condensation and mould not to mention higher energy costs (middle). Not making a foundation wall wide enough to support the exterior brick (right).

While some of the concerns in these pictures arguably might have been caught by the municipal building official or be part of the Tarion warranty coverage, the new homeowner will nevertheless be faced with the challenge of demonstrating who is at fault and why they should not bear the burden of any remediation. That’s if you even have that recourse available to you or if it’s a viable option for you to pursue in the first place. It also likely assumes that you have exhausted all your efforts with the builder / contractor in making things good first. As a last resort, if no one will step up to the plate you might consider costly litigation. Much of this will be dependent on the facts, whether you had great contract drawn up that details what was to be done by whom, by when, what materials / finishes were to be provided, etc., etc. etc.

Keep in mind that not all projects, renovations or alteration work require a building permit or inspections by municipal building officials either. Generally, all new electrical & new plumbing work will require permits as well as any gas work. Further, many do not take the time to get things properly documented in a contract either.

The other significant concern that is seldom talked about is whether you getting what you wanted and paid for? For example, did the contractor provide you with the quality of roof shingles or furnace that you thought you were buying. Did you even think to ask or know? Perhaps you asked for a certain quality / type item for your new home or renovation but another was mistakenly installed or out of view?

Hiring your own private inspector at the beginning of the process can assist you in many ways. They can review plans with your architect / builder / contractor and act as a second set of eyes offering ideas / suggestions for your consideration. They can review your contract in conjunction with your lawyer to see that certain specifics relating to the build are detailed in it to avoid problems down the road. They can carry out progress inspections tailored specifically to what want you might be concerned about and ensure that those things contracted for are being provided.

Having new construction, additions and renovation work inspected by your own private inspector that is acting as your advocate can go a long way in providing peace of mind while reducing exposure to the items discussed above. Protect yourself…get it inspected!

No Home Inspection Clause in Your Offer to Purchase, Say What?!?! – Suggestions & Tips #168

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Keep Calm - no home inspection clause

Hot real estate market? Multiple offers? No time or can’t carry out an inspection before putting in an offer? Do you have to waive your condition on a home inspection in order to seal the deal?

If that’s what you are facing, think long and hard about buying that house. You’ll have an uphill battle after the fact trying to sort out who pulled the wool over your eyes and “made” you buy that house that’s got problems you now want fixed. There will be problems of course, there’s not a house we’ve inspected that doesn’t have them, and based on the number of calls we’re getting from homebuyers with horror stories who felt obliged not to have an inspection carried out because they just had to buy that … “dream house”…we’re not surprised!

RECO (Real Estate Council of Ontario) is the body responsible for regulating real estate professionals in the province on behalf of the Ontario government and protects the public’s interest through a fair, safe and informed marketplace. They say that buyers who exclude a home inspection clause in their offer to purchase “may later learn that there are property defects, required repairs or needed upgrades that you weren’t aware of. In some cases, this can be expensive in the short or long-term. Foregoing a home inspection is a significant risk that a buyer needs to carefully consider.”

From our perspective, not having a home inspection carried out before you buy sounds a little bit like this:

“My wife & I are looking at getting a new car. We’re willing to pay as much as we can afford in order to get it. We found one car that’s sort of what we are looking for. Unfortunately, there aren’t many cars to choose from out there and we don’t want to keep driving our old car. If we don’t grab this car now we won’t get it. So we paid 15% more than they were asking for the car! The dealer told us there’s no warranty on it and we didn’t have time to ask our mechanic look at it first for fear of losing it. The upside I guess is that we saved money on not getting a safety check.”

Okay…it’s not realistic you say. So, you can’t find any homes where an inspection will be permitted in order to secure the house you want AND you have to buy a house NOW! We think you’ll agree though that no home inspection means an increased risk as a homebuyer. Well, what about this? Why not hire a home inspector to tag along with you during your home buying process – when you’re out there looking at the various houses you want to buy? Line up the houses you want to look at and hire an inspector to ride along with you. Better yet, narrow down the houses you want to look at first. The inspector can point out lots just walking around with you during an open house or attending a specific viewing of homes. This is far from perfect of course, but a cursory look and having a second set of eyes might help you better understand the condition of that home before you put in your offer. Best of all though, only buy a house conditional on having a full and complete home inspection carried out.

Don’t be embarrassed to contact us about problems you’re having after buying a house that you didn’t get inspected. An inspection after the fact will still help you ascertain its condition and better prepare you moving forward. If you think you’ve been wronged in your home buying purchase, we also offer dispute resolution & litigation support services.

If you’re a realtor, lawyer, mortgage broker or other real estate professional reading this, you might want to consider strongly encourage if not insist on clients have an inspection carried as part of their Offer to Purchase. Failing this, there are some other options, for example:

Home Inspection – carried out before clients submit their Offer to Purchase

Oops Inspection™ – carried out after they purchase the home

Ride Along Inspection™ – hire us by the hour to tag along with you when viewing homes

An inspection can help to mitigate the risk for not only realtor, lawyer, mortgage broker or other real estate professionals but your “clients-for-life” – the home buyer. For that matter, having the home inspected may reduce risk for the vendors too!

An inspection is important for the safety of your loved ones and should be conducted whenever a home is purchased, and then periodically while you own the home…just like you go to the doctor for a physical, houses need routine inspections. Your kids will also be happy knowing their home is Guaranteed Monster Free from any typically large, ugly or possibly frightening creatures too 🙂

And remember this, if you remember nothing else …

Keep Calm And Get It Inspected - no home inspection clause

You Get What You Inspect NOT What You Expect™

Not All Rigid Foam Board Insulation Is The Same – Suggestion & Tips #155

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rigid foam board insulation

Rigid foam board insulation should not be used interchangeably for all applications and must be installed correctly for building envelope purposes as well as fire & environmental safety reasons.

There are basically three types of this petroleum based product, having differing insulation values and colours. Generally, these products are used on walls, floors, ceilings, roofs & foundations and have a higher insulation value than cellulose & fibreglass insulation. With properly sealed seams, it can provide a better air barrier too. Some foam is closed cell while other is open cell which affects its ability to absorb water.

What most people do not realize is that all foam plastics such as rigid foam board insulation should be covered with a fire rated / thermal material such as 1/2 inch gypsum board. In addition, some contain harmful toxins (and or are not thought to be a “green” building product) that can be released into the air.

Here is a brief overview on some of the traits of rigid foam board insulation:

Expanded polystyrene (EPS)

  • Least expensive
  • Vapour permeable
  • R-value: 3.6-4.2 per inch
  • Uses: insulated concrete forms and structural insulated panels (SIPS)
  • When applied in wall assembly / sheathing it should be over the air barrier
  • Foam plastics, including Expanded polystyrene (EPS), are considered combustible and should be protected from high heat sources. A protective barrier or thermal barrier may be required as specified in the appropriate building code.

Extruded polystyrene (XPS)

  • Mid-priced
  • Water resistant, can act as a vapour retarder
  • Uses: side walls, floors, ceilings, below grade waterproofing & roof systems
  • R-value: 5 per inch
  • Blowing agent and flame retardant contain toxins, and not thought to be green builder friendly.
  • Foam plastics, including Extruded polystyrene (XPS), are considered combustible and should be protected from high heat sources. A protective barrier or thermal barrier may be required as specified in the appropriate building code.

Polyisocyanurate / polyiso (ISO)

  • Most expensive
  • Water absorbent
  • R-value 6-6.5 per inch
  • Faced product typically with foil
  • Uses: side walls, roofs, vapour barrier, ductwork
  • Green builder friendly
  • No recommend for below grade applications
  • Foil facing means no vapour barrier recommended on exterior walls.
  • All construction materials, including foam plastics materials such as polyiso insulation, must provide a suitable margin of fire safety. Among all foam plastics, polyiso possesses the highest level of inherent fire resistance due to its unique structure of strong isocyanurate chemical bonds. A protective barrier or thermal barrier may or may not be required as specified in the appropriate building code.

If you’re not sure what type if rigid foam board insulation you have or you’re planning work to your home, consult a professional and install to the manufacturer’s specifications and local building code.

Notched Floor Joist? How Much Is Too Much? – Suggestions & Tips #151

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notched

Floor joists are designed to carry the load above it. A notched floor joist means you are altering the structure for the home. That’s not to say you can’t do it though, but it must be done right.

When it comes to roof, floor & ceiling framing, it’s critical to know how much can be drilled out of it or notched out of it before compromising structure. Generally, holes should not be more than a ¼ the depth of the framing member and located not less than 2” from the edges. Notched floor joist must only be made at the top of framing members, with the maximum distance from the edge of the support not exceeding ½ the depth of the framing member and no deeper than a third of the depth of the framing member.

Of course, the floor joists themselves must be properly supported, for example, on foundation walls or by using metal joist hangers.

Unsure what might be going on with a notched floor joist in the home you are about to buy or the home you already own? Does the notched floor joist look like some of the handy work done by those in the pictures above? Protect yourself…get it inspected!

Older Heating Systems – Furnace / Boiler – Suggestions & Tips #67

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older heating system

Older heating systems, including furnaces & boilers, whether they are gas or oil fired, are a concern for not only existing homeowners but home buyers too.

If you have an older heating system, it may have for example:

  • broken or malfunctioning controls
  • blocked chimneys
  • unsafe exhaust flues
  • cracked heat exchangers.

The above can of course make the heating system inefficient but more importantly perhaps a poteintial fire hazard as well as serious health & safety concern.

Depending on the age of your furnace / boiler, the availability of parts may be an issue as well as the ability to replace the parts into an older heating system in the first place. It may also not make sense to repair given the cost. Further, the unit is likely inefficient costing you considerable money in energy costs.

It is recommended that your heating system be serviced and maintained annually by a licensed heating contractor according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Although an expensive initial outlay, consideration should be given to a newer more efficient central heating systems can help to recoup your investment by reducing energy costs.

Some insurance companies are now refusing to provide insurance on buildings with older heating systems or heating systems that are in poor condition. If the insurance company does provide coverage on a buildings with this type of heating system, they may require additional / higher insurance premiums or stipulate conditions on coverage.

Do you know the age and what condition your heating system is in?

Older Roofs & Damaged Roof Coverings – Suggestions & Tips #66

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older roofs

All good things must come to an end. With age, older roofs and damaged roof coverings are no different.

So, when are older roofs or roof coverings are at the end of their useful life? Well, that depends on a number of factors, including:

  • materials utilized
  • condition of roof sheathing
  • installation methods
  • exposure to sunlight / ultra violet (UV) rays
  • exposure to westerly winds or north facing slopes
  • maintenance
  • number of layers of shingles
  • location of roof e.g. under trees, TV towers, poorly insulated / ventilated spaces

Keeping the above in mind, generally asphalt “organic” (or traditional) roof shingles have a life span of about 10 to 15 years when new. Asphalt fibreglass shingles come with a longer warranty and generally last longer.

Traditional shingles have a base mat that contain organic materials (e.g. wood, paper) that are soaked with asphalt to make them waterproof and then a top coating of granules that stick to an adhesive asphalt. Fiberglass shingles on the other hand have a fibreglass reinforcing mat soaked with asphalt and fillers to make it waterproof as well. Organic shingles contain more asphalt than fibreglass shingles, are more prone to fire damage and are less brittle than fibreglass shingles. Some organic shingles produced pre-1980 may contain asbestos, and in part was a reason for the development of fibreglass shingles. Asphalt shingles (traditional organic or fibreglass) are not intended for use on low / no sloped roofs.

Roof leakage caused by old or damaged shingles, multiple layers of shingles, poor attic ventilation or improper flashing is a frequent problem. It can be easy & inexpensive to repair damaged shingles & re-caulk roof penetrations. However expensive major roof repairs may be required down the road if they are put off.

 

Organic vs Fibreglass Shingles? – Suggestions & Tips #103

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organic vs fibreglass shingles

Sounds right…buy organic. However in the world of shingles, organic is likely not what you think. Before redoing your roof know the difference between organic vs fibreglass shingles.

The ironically named organic shingles have a base mat that contain organic materials (e.g. wood, paper) that are soaked with asphalt to make them waterproof. Then a top coating of granules that stick to the adhesive asphalt. This is the shingle which has traditionally been used on homes. They use more asphalt & are heavier than fibreglass, come with a shorter warranty period and cost less. These are often called builder grade and used on new homes. Some organic shingles produced pre-1980 may contain asbestos, and in part was a reason for the development of fibreglass shingles.

Fibreglass shingles on the other hand use newer technology of a woven fibreglass mat, are covered with asphalt (and fillers to make it waterproof) and are embedded with ceramic granules. Fibreglass are lighter & thinner than organic, have a higher fire rating, cost more to install and come with a longer warranty.

You can not always determine if a shingle is organic or fibreglass without making a destructive investigation. As such, it will be important to ascertain certain information from, for example, the vendor concerning what type of shingles were installed and any remaining warranties / guarantees available to you when buying.

Asphalt shingles (traditional organic or fibreglass) are not intended for use on low / no sloped roofs.

For more information on Roof Systems click here.

Overhead Electrical Service & Trees / Vegetation – Suggestions & Tips #171

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overhead-electrical-service-trees-vegetation

As you might imagine, there are certain clearances that electrical wires / power lines must have, for example, when they cross over roads, driveways, roofs, pools, walkways and when near fire escapes, windows & doors. Furthermore, these clearances become problematic when vegetation, such as trees, shrubs and the likes interfere with them. In picture shown here, the incoming electrical service wires are resting directing on a tree branch.

So, what’s the problem? When these electrical wires come in contact with vegetation, a number of issues can arise. For example, the electrical wires themselves can become damaged or frayed from rubbing against the vegetation. In windy weather, these electrical wires can sway and move as the vegetation does. During different seasons, leaves on the trees (or snow / ice) can weigh the branches down yet in spring or fall you thought there was plenty of clearance. If the vegetation interferes with the electrical wires in these scenarios it can affect the securement where the service entrance wires / drip loops are at the house or at the pole. Then wires can become disconnected and you lose power, or cause a poor / intermittent connection.

What are some of the consequences? Ultimately, they are  above are fire / shock hazards. If the tree is old, or there’s a storm / high wind and tree branches fall they can bring with them the “live / hot” electrical wires, disrupting power supply to your home and a fire / shock hazard. In addition, electrical wires worn by vegetation can not only cause a fire but may energize the tree / vegetation itself, making it a shock hazard if someone touches them.

Here are some Do’s & Don’ts:

  • Do contact your local utility company before doing anything (including hiring a contractor to take care of the problem) if you think trees or vegetation are too close or touching the overhead electrical wires.
  • Don’t attempt to prune vegetation or chop down a tree near electrical wires yourself. A tree or branch falling onto the electrical wires can cause serious injury or death. Arcing may occur simply by cutting a branch near electrical wires when it falls leading to electrocution. Don’t prune back vegetation or trees yourself, this job should be left to a professional certified utility arborist.
  • Don’t think that using tools with long handles or standing on a ladder is a safe way to cut back the vegetation. This just greatly increases your odds of electrocution.
  • Do be aware of all overhead electrical wires that run across your property.
  • Do use extreme caution with ladders and long metal objects when around or in close proximity overhead electrical wires.
  • Don’t touch any overhead electrical wires with anything.
  • Don’t let anyone climb trees or get near vegetation that is in contact or in close proximity to the electrical wires.

Always consult a professional before assessing or attempting any work around or near overhead electrical wires.

Owner’s Manuals, Material / Installation Specifications – Suggestions & Tips #2

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Owner's Manuals, Material / Installation Specifications

When buying a house, there is plenty of information that you will require for the maintenance, upkeep, operation and or replacement of various items around the home, including owner’s manuals, material / installation specifications. This information is an invaluable tool providing operating instructions, troubleshooting tips, and advice on system maintenance.

But don’t just assume that this information will be waiting there for you when you move in either. That’s why we recommend that you ascertain from the vendors what owner’s manuals, material / installation specification sheets and booklets are available to you regarding the various systems, components or items in your home that you’ll need for future reference. For example:

  • furnace
  • air conditioning
  • thermostats
  • appliances
  • security / alarm system
  • windows / doors
  • shingles
  • garage door openers
  • flooring
  • electrical devices
  • plumbing fixtures

Once this information has been obtained, take the necessary steps to fill in the gaps of any missing information by searching online or consulting with appropriate manufacturers / installers as need be. With this information, you’ll also want to start to look at what warranties & guarantees are available to you as well.

Do your homework, be prepared and ask for copies of the owner’s manuals, material / installation specifications for your new home.

Peanut Butter?!?! – Suggestions & Tips #110

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peanut butter

Sure, duck tape is pretty standard fair around the house, but who would have thought it would be peanut butter to the rescue! Skippy would be so proud 🙂

There are plenty of useful all-natural homemade cleaners like vinegar, baking soda, lemon juice & cornstarch. Now, as luck would have it, various companies make PB jars that come in differing sizes & materials. So, it’s no surprise that we’d see in our inspection travels how it’s been used (er, we mean incorrectly) for capping off drain pipes and plugging up ductwork – and if they don’t quite fit, heck we’re pretty sure it can lubricate too!

Our recommendation – keep the peanut butter in the kitchen & place the jars in the recycle bin when empty 🙂

Permanent Wood Foundations (PWF)

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Permanent Wood Foundations (PWF) are not new and have been around since the late 1960’s.

They are an in-ground, engineered construction system designed to turn a home’s foundation into usable living space. It is an alternative to conventional block or poured concrete foundations in many situations. They are constructed like lumber-framed walls in the rest of the home, with plywood sheathing attached on the exterior. They use pressure-treated wood, a renewable resource, with a preservative to protect the wood against decay, fungi and termites.

The advantages of PWF include design flexibility, ease of installation, in many cases, cost savings, ease of interior finishing, decorating and remodelling. They can also provide more living space in the basement/foundation area than masonry for the same outside dimensions.

PWF can also be designed for projects such as crawl spaces, room additions, and knee wall foundations for garages and mobile homes. In these applications, PWF have further advantages. For instance, in the case of an addition, the contractor can do the work himself without removing landscaping and harming a lawn, which is often required to accommodate a concrete truck.

Basement/foundation walls have the added advantage that they can be easily insulated too. Since PWF walls are so similar to typical wood frame construction, installing batt insulation and applying the air/vapour barrier is quite straightforward.

Fasteners used in foundations must be corrosion resistant, for example, stainless steel is recommended below grade for attaching treated plywood to treated lumber. For above-grade uses, the plywood may be attached with hot-dipped galvanized nails, stainless steel, bronze or copper fasteners.

A PWF foundation can be constructed in almost any type of weather. The wood foundation must, however, be designed by a qualified engineer and constructed by competent builders who understand the importance of preparing the base, handling techniques for pressure treated materials, the use of correct fasteners, drainage installation, back filling techniques and sealing requirements.

Permits – Suggestions & Tips #1

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permits

Permits are an official record that grant permission for certain work to begin while allowing for checks & balances along the way. Items requiring permits can include:

  • electrical
  • plumbing
  • gas
  • a change of use to the property, such as: adding / moving a bathroom, making a bedroom & bathroom into one large bathroom, finishing a rec. room
  • building an addition onto a home
  • making a material / structural alterations to a building or structure
  • demolition of a building
  • filling in an in ground pool

Generally, your lawyer will determine if any permits were taken out and not completed…that is, whether there are any outstanding work orders regarding their completion. Of course, you will want ascertain who is responsible for not only completing this work but who will be paying for it.

The other not readily apparent issue concerning permits are those where no permit was obtained in the first place. When buying a home, we recommend you ascertain from the Vendor, your professional realtor, lawyer or other sources (as need be) what work has been carried out to the home that is not “original to it” (if any). Once this has been determined, ascertain whether or not appropriate permits were obtained, if required, including the “final” inspections from the authorities having jurisdiction over same e.g. building / plumbing from the municipal building department, electrical from the Electrical Safety Authority (ESA), etc.

Do your research and avoid surprises.

 

PEX Plumbing Pipes – Suggestions & Tips #115

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pex plumbing pipes

PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) plumbing pipes have become popular in use with renovation work and new home construction, replacing copper plumbing applications.

The material is formed into piping or tubing, and used in buildings for domestic cold & hot water supply lines as well as hydronic radiant heating. It is preferred over copper, for example, as it costs less, is easier to install, flexible requiring less connections / fittings, higher water pressure, reduce risk of fire during installation, no corrosion, and reduced chance of pipe burst from freezing. Some of its cons include: the material can degrade with UV (ultraviolet) sunlight, it can be prone to insects damage, and concerns over possible health effects.

Like any plumbing in your home, condo or a commercial building, you can’t always see (all of) it i.e. it’s hidden. It can also be transitioned to / from copper. So you might see copper in one area, but changes to PEX further on down the line. You can also get varying products (brands / manufacturers) being used within one property as well. It’s also possible to mix the problem product with good product, making it a problem of another sort.

There are some class action lawsuits / settlements involving PEX plumbing pipes, fittings and systems which burst / leaked regarding various manufacturers e.g. Kitec, Zurn, Uponor / Wirsbo and Plasco Plumb-PEX. Some insurance companies are now refusing to provide insurance on houses with this type of plumbing or may require, for example, additional / higher premiums, re-plumbing / modifications, and or an inspection(s) by a licensed plumber.

Make sure you know if you have PEX plumbing pipes in your home, condo or commercial building before you buy, and whether or not they are those affected by the above. Be sure to consult your insurance broker before buying your home too. Last but not least…get it inspected!

Phase 1, 2 & 3 Environmental Audits

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What are environmental audits? Here is our guide to Phase 1, 2 and 3 environmental audits in Ontario.

A Phase 1 audit is a subjective evaluation conducted on sites where there is reason to believe that an environmental problem may exist. The present condition of the site, signs of possible spills, discharge, use and storage of hazardous waste and other signs is included in a Phase 1 inspection. These are obtained through a visual inspection. Other information may be provided such as a review of the history of the property through available documents.

If information or visible signs indicate an environmental hazard may exist or a problem previously occurred then a Phase 2 audit may be recommended. No laboratory testing is used in a Phase 1 audit.

A Phase 2 audit on the other hand follows a Phase 1 audit of a site, which had previously indicated environmental concerns. A Phase 2 audit involves the sampling of on-site materials and the laboratory testing of them. The determination of whether or not to carry out this audit will depend on various items. These may include, the nature of the property, the quantity and quality of information obtained from the Phase 1 audit, the strength of the evidence that hazardous material did or currently exist, and the likelihood that humans or the environment were or are at risk.

The Phase 2 audit centres on determining the occurrence or presence of an environmental hazard. This type of work is usually time consuming and expensive.

Phase 3 audits typically determine the extent and measurement of environmental hazards and the impact on the property and human safety. Tests on surface water, ground water and soil are usually performed. Clean up processes are also recommended in this phase.

Planning an Addition? – Suggestions & Tips #149

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Support beam problems.

Planning an addition? Have one already? It all starts with good structural support, foundation and footings.

On this home’s addition, only 2”X6” material was used for the 1st floor joists. Then, where these floor joists extend and rest on the exterior foundation walls (left picture), they are notched-out making their support more like a 2”X5” or less. In the right picture, only one of three 2” boards used in the built-up wood beam supporting those 1st floor joists mentioned previously, extended the last 2’ of its length to rest on a single 2”X6” that was fastened with Tapcons® to the block foundation wall, crushing the wood in the process.

To say the least, the addition on the home is indeed curious. While this may have been all that we saw during the inspection that sent up red flags, it begs the question “What couldn’t we see?”. Unfortunately, a home inspection isn’t perfect…we don’t have x-ray vision and can’t see through walls. Besides, as a prospective home buyer you likely do not have the right as part of your home inspection condition in the “Offer to Purchase” to start tearing walls apart to see what’s going on. So, at this point, you would need to get further professional advice perhaps from a qualified building contractor and or structural engineer as well as the permission of the vendor / home owner to explore matters in greater detail.

Protect yourself…get it inspected!

Plastic Pipe Mania

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Here are just some of the common types of plastic pipes you’ll see in a house:

Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) — ABS pipe is black rigid, non-pressurized plastic pipe used to drain your sinks, tubs, showers, toilet and washing machines. It is also used to vent the drain and waste pipes. To remember its name I call it the All Black Stuff (ABS).

The main disadvantages of ABS are its poor solvent and fatigue resistance, high smoke evolution on combustion, poor bearing properties (high coefficient of friction and rapid wear) and poor UV resistance, unless protected. The material is resistant to water, aqueous salt and acid solutions, and oils but is unsuitable for use with many organic materials and oxidizing acids. ABS is used in preference to PVC for manufacture of pipe for use at high (50oC-65oC) or low (<-20oC) temperatures. It is also used in a variety of equipment housings, and toys. In very general terms ABS can be considered as a stiffer version of polypropylene.

Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride (CPVC) — A rigid, high-strength thermoplastic polymer (polyvinyl dichloride) that is practically inert toward water, inorganic reagents, hydrocarbons, and alcohols over a broad temperature range. Commonly used for pipes and pipe fittings.

CPVC is a slightly yellow plastic pipe used inside homes. It will last a long time though not quite as tough as copper. Some areas with corrosive water will benefit by the use of CPVC piping. CPVC tubing is intended and recommended for use in hot and cold potable water distribution systems as well as hydronic radiant heating systems.

Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX / XLPE) – is a form of polyethylene with cross-links. Used predominantly in hydronic radiant heating systems, domestic water piping, insulation for high voltage electrical cables, natural gas and offshore oil applications, chemical transportation, and transportation of sewage and slurries. Recently, it has become a viable alternative to polyvinyl chloride (PVC), chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC) or copper pipe for use as residential water pipes.

Polyethylene (PE) — A tough thermoplastic polymer of ethylene that resists chemicals and absorbs very little moisture. Polyethylene can vary from soft and flexible to hard and rigid depending on the pressures and catalysts used during manufacturing. It has numerous applications, commonly being used for tubing and piping, food packaging, garment bags, and moulded plastic products.

Polybutylene (PB) — A thermoplastic polymer — manufactured in various degrees of elasticity, strength, and stability. Used for films, coatings, pipes, tubing, fittings, and many other services.

PB pipe is a soft, non-rigid, plastic pipe. It is sometimes curved, usually grey (or possibly silver or black) plastic pipe used in drinking water supply plumbing. When used in the underground service from the water utility company, PB pipe is blue, grey or black. PB pipe is not used for drains, waste or vent piping.

Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) — A thermoplastic polymer resin material that is rigid and practically chemically inert. Commonly used for water pipes and fittings, as well as numerous other applications such as siding, gutters, raincoats, chemical containers, flooring, toys, tennis court surfaces, and films and package coatings for food containers.

PVC is a white plastic pipe used outside. It can be used only for cold water. Its uses include water services, between the meter and building, and for irrigation.

Virgin PVC is cheap, inherently flame-retardant, stiff and strong with good vapour barrier properties and UV resistance. PVC is stable in contact with inorganic chemicals, including aqueous alkalis and acids. It is unaffected by exposure to oils and alcohol’s but is degraded by most polar aromatic hydrocarbons. Un-plasticised grades (PVC-U) are used extensively (exclusively in some cases) for drainpipes, cold water pipes, guttering, and for window profiles.

Plastic Pipes – Types & Terms

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Plastic pipes are found in virtually every home. Here’s our plastic pipe guide to types and terminology.

Plastic — A high polymer material, often synthetic, that during manufacturing or processing can be extruded, moulded, cast, drawn, or laminated into objects of all sizes and shapes by application of heat or pressure, by chemical condensation, or by casting during polymerization of monomers, which can retain its new shape under conditions of use.
Polymer — A substance, synthetic or natural, consisting of large complex molecules formed by the chain-like chemical union of five or more identical combining monomers. (Low molecular weight primary molecules are called monomers.)

Polypropylene — A thermoplastic polymer of propylene resembling polyethylene, and used for making moulded and extruded plastic products such as water pipe, tubing, and fittings.

Polycarbonate — A thermoplastic polymer resin that is linear polyester of carbonic acid. Polycarbonate is a transparent, non-toxic, non-corrosive, heat resistant, high impact strength plastic; it is generally stable, but may be subject to attack by strong alkalis and some organic hydrocarbons. It can be moulded, extruded, or thermoformed, and is commonly used for numerous applications, such as non-breakable windows, household appliances, tubing, piping, and cartridge filter sumps.

Thermoplastic — Materials, such as certain synthetic resins and plastics, that softens or fuses when heated; and hardens and fuses when cooled. These materials can often be reheated and cooled time after time with no appreciable changes in their physical or chemical properties.

Thermoset — Certain plastics and synthetic resins that once solidified will not soften or fuse when heated. Thermoset materials may decompose at high temperatures, but will not soften or melt.

Visco-elasticity problems — All plastics and specifically PVC are visco-elastic materials. You may be familiar with Silly Putty, which is an example of a visco-elastic material. Visco-elasticity allows a material, like Silly Putty, to be stretched considerably if you pull it slowly. However, if you pull quickly, the material will break with a snap.

Visco-elasticity has both advantages and disadvantages in piping systems. The ability of PVC pipe to deform or “creep” is a major benefit when you install a sprinkler system along with a curved sidewalk or when you need to compensate for changes in elevation or grades. Also, a visco-elastic
material can more easily tolerate temperature-related expansion and contraction.

The two most common types of system failures related to visco-elasticity are catastrophic burst and long-term yield (stretch). You can identify burst failures by the sharp, jagged breaks that almost always leave the system in multiple pieces. Pressure surges, especially those caused by water hammer, produce burst failures. It is not uncommon for the failure to spread away from the origin and travel into adjacent components, such as pipe or
fittings.

Long-term yield failure will remain localized and often result in areas of plastic erosion around the point of origin. You can see in a close up examination of these areas that the plastic has stress marks and a very glossy surface. These long-term failures usually will be located in the most highly stressed area of a fitting or component. In typical PVC T’s and elbows, these areas can be the inner corners of the direction change.

Plumbing Nightmares – Suggestions & Tips #129

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plumbing nightmares

You’ve likely heard of plumbing nightmares and may have seen one or two. Sometimes, people do the funniest things, and plumbing this is a good example of that.

We’ve seen sink traps that look like cloverleaf highways, or the joining together of as many different pipe types as possible as if it were some sort of contest. We’re not sure what drives the weekend warrior to do this…other than they likely have no idea what they’re doing.

In the picture above, we suspect the toilet was inspired by the DIY’er repeatedly watching the Reverend Mother Superior sing Climb Every Mountain in the Sound of Music and the little Munchkins in the Wizard of Oz. We were pleased to see that it at least had a handrail leading to up to the throne…but a guardrail at the top landing would have been a good idea too 🙂

If you’re thinking of doing any renovations or additions to your home, call a professional!

Preparing Your House for Inspection – Suggestions & Tips #108

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preparing your house for inspection

Preparing your house for inspection is important. You only have so many chances to sell your house, so best be prepared from the get-go.

One area to start with is making things readily accessible for the inspector. If this is not the case, the inspector may report that he was unable to gain access to certain areas and could not inspect them as a result. This can add uncertainty for buyers. So where possible, provide clear access to:

  • exterior walls (trim back vegetation if need be),
  • foundation walls
  • basement / crawlspace
  • garage
  • electrical panels
  • water meter
  • furnace, air conditioner
  • water heater
  • access hatch doors to attic areas

With access to as many things as possible taken care of, the next task is to tidy up things as the inspector will not do this for you in order to inspect. Again the inspector will report he was unable to inspect those items as there was storage / personal items / debris preventing observation.

Nest, ensure you identify panel circuit directories & hidden switches, replace burnt out light bulbs, have systems operable so they can be inspected, make important invoices & documents available, keep utilities & pilot lights on, and make remotes & keys to locked areas available.

Most inspectors arrive early and will be onsite for 2 to 3 hours, perhaps more…so be prepared!

For more information, see The Inspector Is Coming!

Preserved Wood Foundations (PWF) – Suggestions & Tips #69

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preserved wood foundation

Preserved Wood Foundations (PWF) consist of below grade load-bearing stud walls made from preservative-treated plywood and typically sheathed with preservative-treated plywood lumber. They are sometimes referred to as permanent wood foundations as well.

PWF have been around since the 1960’s and are used in constructing both residential & commercial use buildings. Its advantages include:

  • design flexibility & versatility
  • ease of installation
  • cost savings (in many cases)
  • longer lifespan
  • ease of interior finishing, insulating, decorating & remodeling.

PWF need to be designed by professionals and constructed by qualified builders who understand the importance of base preparation, the use of correct corrosion resistant fasteners, drainage, back filling & sealing requirements. Designed or installed incorrectly it can, for example, let water / moisture into the home which eventually will compromise the structural integrity of the foundation and increase the potential for mould. In addition, there are structural concerns with these foundations due to the soil pressure / force on them.

As most of the PWF’s are not visible during an inspection, any evidence of dampness / moisture or concerns with its structure will result in the inspector referring you on to other experts. Also, speak with your insurance company to ensure coverage is available and premiums are acceptable to you.

If you’re considering buying a home with a PWF do you homework!

Protect Your Loved Ones This Valentine’s Day – Suggestions & Tips #102

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protect your loved ones

This Valentine’s Day, protect your loved ones! Make sure your home is as safe as you can make it and if you’re not sure, get it inspected.

Whether it’s the electrical, plumbing, heating, structural issues or the indoor air quality play it safe and get it checked out. Just like you’d go for a checkup at the doctor’s, you need to make sure your house safe for those living in it. For example, here are just a few things to look at:

And don’t just think about your house, about your parent’s home or where your kids or grandchildren live…make sure your home is safe, and have a Happy Valentine’s Day!

Pruning Vegetation Around The House – Suggestions & Tips #119

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pruning vegetation

It’s not always top of mind, or even a task many like to undertake, however pruning vegetation back from around your home is very important.

While trees, shrubs, and various other plantings around your house can add curb appeal, there are a number of concerns that bushes against your home or vegetation growing up & against exterior walls can do, for example, it can:

  • interfere with the operation of your windows and doors
  • damage building materials e.g. brickwork, siding, stucco
  • retain water / moisture / snow / ice that can penetrate into your home
  • make home maintenance very difficult e.g. caulking, painting
  • reduce the number of insects in or around your home
  • trees or tree branches that overhang your roof can damage shingles (or other property around the home), increase moss / algae / lichen growth on shingles
  • interfered with the operation of your eavestroughs or fill them with debris so they don’t drain properly
  • tree / plant roots can damage your foundation walls.

During inspections we’ve carried out, we’ve seen vegetation outside the home grow into the house. If you’ve been postponing pruning vegetation from around your home…consider adding it to your Saturday morning job jar 🙂

Radiant Heating

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A floor heated radiantly from below was an idea first used by the Romans and is today perhaps the most popular form of heating in England, and certain parts of Europe.

What is radiant heating? Outdoors, the air around us is primarily heated with the heated earth. For example, on a warm cloudy day, the air itself transfers the warmth we feel. On the other hand, a cold sunny day, the warmth comes from the radiant energy the sun. It’s this form of heat that we feel in a home that is radiated from a warm floor.

How are floors heated? Hot water / hydronic radiant heating is by far the most common type in a home. Others types of radiant heating include, for example, ceiling radiant heating, radiators, and, baseboard heaters. Electric in floor radiant heating panels can be used as well, but they are often used in smaller applications such as in a bathroom renovation where hot water heating may not be available.

Water heated with a boiler or domestic hot water heater travels through tubes, for example, either below the floor secured with reflective panels or submerged in a concrete bed on top of the floor. The result is a quiet, even and comfortable heat with no blasts of hot air to stir up dirt and dust. There are no radiators so furniture placement is easier and creates a safer environment with no surfaces that are too hot to the touch.  Some studies suggest that with radiant heating systems people can be comfortable at temperatures 6°F to 8°F lower than forced air systems for example.

As radiant heat does not alter the air moisture content in homes, humidifiers typically aren’t required like it is with forced air systems using combustion or by increased infiltration of cold, dry outside air. Often the air in a house is humid enough.

Air infiltration heat loss is reduced with radiant heat. When warm air from a furnace or baseboard heater (at a far higher temperature than radiant) flows against colder exterior walls, it draws cold air into the house through any cracks. With radiant systems, air is only warmed to the temperature of the thermostat setting, so the temperature differential at outside walls is less, reducing air infiltration.

With radiant heating, a warm floor heats the air that then rises to heat people is only partly true. Only a small percentage of the heat transferred to the room from a radiant floor actually comes from the heated air. The temperature of the air from the ceiling to the floor often never varies more than a degree or two.

Radiant energy is transferred through the air in all directions and is converted to heat energy when it contacts an object such as walls, furniture or people. It is a fact of nature that if one object is warmer than another, the first object will radiate its heat to the cooler object. You’ve all probably all sat on a piece of furniture that sits by a window and is warmed by the sun. The warmed seat then makes you feel warm. What you perceive as warmth coming from the furniture is actually your body gaining heat from the window by radiation.

How costly is radiant floor heating? When used in a concrete slab for homes, radiant floor heating can be a very economical way to go. When used in multilevel residential applications, radiant floor heat is generally more expensive than forced air to install. Long term though, a radiant floor heating can use about 15% to 30% less energy than other more common heating systems. One must also factor in the added benefit that comfort can bring.

What heat source can I use? The most common source of hot water is that provided by a boiler. Commonly, boilers can be fuelled by natural gas, propane, fuel oil, wood or electricity. The choice is based largely on availability and cost. Other energy sources such as solar and geothermal are also a very good match for radiant floor heating since radiant floors use relatively low water temperatures.

What about air conditioning? Cooling and heating are clearly different. When the two systems are combined it can limit the benefits of either system or both. Some would that since warm air rises and cool air falls, it only makes sense that the heat should be in the floor and the cooling in the ceiling. So, an advantage of having an independent cooling system is that ducts can be routed through the ceiling area to serve rooms in the house. Room air conditioners also allow cool are to be directed to specific areas saving energy and money spent on whole house systems.

What about leaks in the flooring pipes? Like plumbing pipes concealed in wall cavities or ceilings we assume, generally from experience, that the chances of the pipes leaking is relatively small. Similarly, experience shows us that a pipe leak in the floor is small too. It’s important to note that with pipes embedded in the concrete floor that the change of damaging them is small and it also assists with high pressure issues too. Since residential radiant floor heating systems are often “closed loop” systems there is a limited amount of water in the pipes themselves limiting the amount of water damage to the home.

How hot are the floors? Typically, the temperature outside and heat loss dictate floor temperatures in your home. Generally, the colder it gets outside, the warmer the floor becomes but the floors should never feel hot. On a mild day when very little heat is needed, the floor should feel neutral.

What floor coverings can be used? Radiant floors are regularly used with all kinds of floor coverings. Keep in mind though that whatever you choose, the heat must penetrate it to get to the room. This makes bare concrete, tile, vinyl sheeting, and, even wood good choices. Low nap carpets can work as well.

What about house ventilation? Air exchange is critical to any home. A ducting system does not have to be elaborate as long as the required air exchanges are provided e.g. moving the required about of cubic feet per minute. A HRV (heat recovery ventilator) or air exchanger that warms incoming cool air, for example, before it is supplied to living spaces is a good way of providing air exchanges and improving indoor air quality too.

Radon Gas Exposure

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As many as 20,000 people in the US may die this year from excessive exposure to a naturally occurring radioactive gas called radon (US Environmental Protection Agency). Only tobacco smoke provides a quicker route to lung cancer.

What is Radon? — Radon is a tasteless, odourless and colourless radio-nuclear gas formed in rock and soil due to the natural breakdown or radioactive decay of uranium-238. It element makes up about 3 parts per million of the earth’s crust. Radon has been generated and released from uranium since the earth was formed. Radon gas is present to some extent everywhere. Each radioactive element decays at a characteristic rate known as a half life. As the material gives off radiation it is transformed into a different element. Since the half life of uranium-238 is about 4 and a half billion years it, and, its decay products, will linger forever as far as we are concerned.

How does it enter your home? — Radon readily seeps from the earth and rock beneath a home through tiny cracks and openings in the floors, foundation and basement walls. The concentration in a home depends on source strength, soil characteristics, mechanical systems in the house, occupants’ habits, the weather, and, many other factors. A low radon gas level in one home does not necessarily mean that homes nearby are okay. In addition, radon varies significantly day to day and over the course of months. Ten-fold changes are not unheard of. Significant concentrations can also be released into the home by way of well water. This can occur during activities such as showers or dish washing. To a lesser extent it can also be present in building materials and in fossil fuels, which may be burned in the house.

How serious can radon be? — The health risks associated with exposures to high concentrations of radon gas were first revealed with the experiences of uranium miners over the past few decades. A number of epidemiological studies of miners in the US, Canada, Germany, Czechoslovakia and elsewhere found a correlation between long term exposure to high levels of radon and radon daughters, and the incidence of lung cancer (Health Physics — 11/85). Long term exposure to radon increases the risk of developing lung cancer. Radon gas is the number two cause of lung cancer resulting in as many as 30,000 deaths per year (US National Cancer Institute). The health risks to humans show no immediate symptoms however about 10% of all lung cancer deaths are estimated to be radon related. Smokers are at higher risk of developing radon-induced lung cancer.

Accumulation of radon in an enclosed area, such as a home, can be very hazardous to your health. On average, Canada has 8 times the level of naturally occurring Radon than any other country in the World and more than twice compared with that found in the US (International Radon Symposium — Sweden 1995).

Renovation and Repair Work – Suggestions & Tips #123

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There are a number of things you should do before you pay for renovation and repair work – before you have that roof re-done, a kitchen renovation, the new laundry room built or foundation repaired. We know this all too well, as we get called in after the fact to provide litigation support / dispute resolution services.

While we recommend that your hire a private independent inspector at the beginning of the process, before the renovation or repair work begins, suffice it to say you should at least get it inspected before you pay! Once you have paid for the work, should there be anything wrong it can take considerable time & effort to recoup those monies if need be.

Whether its a renovation, new construction or repair work, having an inspector involved before contracts are signed & work starts and during the construction phases is the best way to go. Have the inspector review your quotes to see if you are comparing apples to apples.  An inspector can assist you in ensuring you get what you contracted for and help you ensure that the work is carried out as expected. They can assist you in determining whether the work done might void any manufacturer’s warranties / guarantees.

It’s far more expensive to remedy a problem after the fact…an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Before you start and renovation and repair work, call the professionals!

Renovations & Additions – Suggestions & Tips #111

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Are you planning to have work done to your home? Renovations & additions can be an exciting and anxious time for homeowners. There are some things you can do however to make the process go more smoothly:

  • There’s a lot involved with making renovations & additions to your home. So you’ll want to make sure you capture all the significant details in writing and have your professional lawyer review before signing on the dotted line.
  • Consult with a mortgage broker / lender (if need be) as to how progress payments will be handled.
  • Talk to your insurance broker to ensure you have proper coverage during the construction phase should anything go wrong.
  • Do your homework selecting a contractor(s) / architect(s) – ask for references, visit some of their past jobs to ensure it’s the type of workmanship you’re comfortable with.
  • Involve your own private independent home inspector in the process too. They don’t have a dog in the fight. An inspector can act as another set of eyes for you. They can help determine if what you are contracting for might be appropriate given your needs or if there might be other options for you to consider. They can inspect the demolition work before starting with the job, check the workmanship as things progress and ensure you get what it is you contracted for before making any payments.

Get ready, be prepared and hold on…it can be a great ride when done right!

Reverse Polarity – Suggestions & Tips #58

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reverse polarity

Do you have receptacles with reverse polarity in your home?

The majority of receptacles we use in a home today are designed with one slot larger than the other and a space below these two slots where the ground pin can go in. As a result, two (2) prong polarized plugs and three (3) prong plugs then can only be inserted to into them in one particular way. The wider slot on the left side (above the space for the ground) is the side of the receptacle that the white neutral wire is attached to, while the smaller slot on the right side of the receptacle is where the black hot wire is attached. When wired correctly it reduces the potential shock hazard.

Shocks from appliances, scorched receptacles / plugs or an appliance that stops working prematurely are indicators that reverse polarity may be present.

The trouble is, when reverse polarity is present we often get a false sense of security as, for example, when we plug something into a receptacle with reverse polarity they  seemingly work…at least initially. So, you need to physically test and or inspect that receptacle.

If you are unsure if your receptacles are wired properly, get them inspected.

Roll Roofing Must Be Installed Properly – Suggestions & Tips #156

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roll_roofing

Asphalt roll roofing is a material commonly used on flat / low sloped roofs. The material used is similar to asphalt shingles using an organic felt / fibreglass mat saturated with asphalt and stone aggregate on top.

As its name suggests, it comes in rolls and is installed starting at the eaves working your way up to the ridge. Each row that is rolled out overlaps the row below it, just as you would with asphalt shingles. It can be installed by gluing (or nailing) it in place, using hot bitumen or torched & pressed on. Since, the seams overlap they must be sealed to prevent water from getting in or the wind from lifting it up. Similarly, any roof penetrations / protrusions must be sealed.

Troubles occur however when with seams are not sealed or glued down, air bubbles get underneath the roll roofing, or the material is not lying flat on the roof. As with asphalt shingles, roll roofing material can crack or the stone granular can wear off. Its life span is considerably less than asphalt shingles however (perhaps 5 to 10 years) as it exposed longer to water, snow, ice, etc.

In the picture shown here there are two readily apparent problems: (1) a drip edge was installed over the roll roofing at the roof’s edge blocking water from evacuating off of it, and (2) the layers of the roll roofing were not sealed (potential for water moisture penetration into the building). In winter, ice damming would wreak havoc with this roof allowing water into the building.

Roofing Systems

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The roofing system is one of the most important parts of any building. The purpose of the roof is multi-faceted. It protects the rest of the home and its occupants from rain, snow, sun, and, wind. The roof acts as an umbrella shielding the home against rain and snow preventing moisture from entering the home and causing damage. When vented properly, the roof also acts as part of a system to ventilate your home. That is, its’ underside (or attic space) provides a space to exchange air. Ventilation, insulation and vapour barriers in this area are key to maximizing comfort levels, energy efficiencies, and the life span of roof coverings (e.g. shingles), underlay material (e.g. plywood sheathing) and the structure itself (e.g. rafters, trusses). The condition of the structure which supports the roof, its’ underlay/sheathing and the covering are instrumental to a good roofing system. Often people concern themselves only with the age of the “roof” when buying a home. Specifically they’re referring to the age of the shingles themselves. This is an important question but it is relative to the type of material used as they all have varying estimated useful lives.

Types of Roofs — Generally there are two types of roofs: sloped and flat. The slope of the roof is often referred to as the pitch as well. The slope, or pitch, is determined by the rise and the run (see diagram) of the roof. We refer to the slope with the run always remaining constant at 12 feet (or inches).  So, for every 12 feet (or inches) of run we can then measure the rise over that distance in feet (or inches).  For example, a roof with a 7/12 pitch means that over a distance (run) of 12 inches it rises 7 inches. That means that a roof with a 12/12 pitch is steeper than a roof with an 8/12 pitch as the rise is higher.

slope pitchType of Roof: Slope/Pitch

Flat: 2/12 or less

Low Slope: 2/12 to 4/12

Conventional Slope: 4/12 or more

Types of Roof Coverings — Roof coverings come in wide variety of styles with varying characteristics, life spans, and costs. Here are some of the more common ones:

1) Asphalt Shingles — these types of shingles are graded largely by their weight. The premise being that the heavier they are the more material there is and therefore the longer they will last. As such, “organic” asphalt shingles commonly have life spans of about 10 to 15 years. Factors affecting the deterioration of the shingles include sunlight and the slope/pitch (the greater the slope the longer the shingles will last). The exposure or reveal of the overlapping shingles will also be factor in the life of the shingle. Another type of shingle is the asphalt fibreglass shingle, which last longer than “organic” version mentioned above.

What’s A Square? — Roofer’s refer to “a square” as the amount of material required to cover a 100 square feet of the roof surface. Building supply houses sell these roof coverings/shingles in these lots as well.

2) Slate Tiles — slate tiles are made from a quarried naturally occurring material. Although consistency and quality are hard to ensure these very heavy tiles nevertheless last a long time compared with other roof coverings and are known to last up to 100 years. Factors affecting the deterioration of the slate tiles are largely associated with the installation of the material (for example, exposure/reveal of tiles, types of hardware used to secure the tiles) although the tiles themselves can vary considerably too. The slope/pitch (the greater the slope the longer the shakes/shingles will last) is also a factor but to a lesser degree than asphalt shingles.

3) Wood Shingles/Shakes — what’s the difference? Wood shingles are cut or sawed whilst shakes are split from the log. Shakes are thicker and tend to last longer than wood shingles. Wood shingles last anywhere from about 20 to 40 years yet some are known to deteriorate much sooner. Shakes on the other hand tend to last about 25 to 50 years. Factors affecting the deterioration of the shakes and shingles are, their ability to dry out, sunlight and the slope/pitch (the greater the slope the longer the shakes/shingles will last). The exposure or reveal of the overlapping shakes/shingles will also be factor in their life.

4) Clay & Concrete Tiles — these are gaining in popularity of late.  Like slate tiles they are very heavy yet last anywhere from about 40 to 100 years. Like slate tiles, factors affecting the deterioration of the slate tiles are largely associated with the installation of the material (for example, exposure/reveal of tiles, types of hardware used to secure the tiles) although the tiles themselves can vary considerably too. The slope/pitch (the greater the slope the longer the shakes/shingles will last) is also a factor but to a lesser degree than asphalt shingles.

5) Built-up Roofs — these are typically associated with flat and low-pitched roofs. In the past, tar and gravel was the main stay but today torch-on and EPDM membranes are becoming more common.

a) Tar & Gravel Roofs — these have multiple plies of roofing felts with asphalt applied between them. The term “tar” in this type of system comes from coal tar that was used on these roofs. Over the final layer of asphalt gravel is broadcast into it to provide for wear protection and reduce UV degradation. Although some roofers may use roll roofing for the final layer the life span (about 5 to 10 years) is far less than gravel (about 10 to 20 years for 4 ply and 5 to 10 years for 2 ply). Factors affecting the deterioration of the tar and gravel roofs are largely associated with the installation, too little gravel, and, sunlight.

b) Single Ply Membrane Roofs — these include PVC (polyvinyl chloride), EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) and EP (Ethylene Propylene). As the name implies these are the only “true” single ply membrane systems. Although difficult to say, the estimated life span is about 25 plus years for PVC & EP, and 20 plus years for EPDM.

c) Multi-Ply Membrane Roofs — these include Modified 2 Ply membranes where the felt (in a tar and gravel roof) is replaced with polyester/fibreglass incorporated with a “modified” asphalt. The modifiers are either:

SBS (Styrene butadiene styrene) that can have a granular finish (not unlike roll roofing) or a smooth finish, and, is torched welded, or, APP (atactic polypropylene), which requires two layers, is thicker, not as pliable as SBS, and requires UV protection, and, is torch welded in place. Although difficult to say, the estimated life span is about 25 plus years for SBS and 15 years for APP.

d) PMR (Protected Membrane Roof) & IRMA (Insulated Roof membrane Assembly) — these have the roof membrane applied to the roof deck with insulation covering it. The membrane used varies from built-up roofing to PVC. The insulation must be weighted down to stop it from lifting in winds or floating when it rains.

6) Metal Roofs — these can be made from a number of different materials including galvanized, copper, pre-coated steel, and, tin. Some metal roofs are installed in overlapping sheets or panels. Others are joined, for example, by crimping the sections of metal or soldering. Metal shingles are available as well. Life spans of these roofs vary but generally can last about 40 to 60 years. Factors affecting the deterioration of the metal roofs are largely associated with installation methods and maintenance.

Flashing — flashing is used where two or more building materials come together. Its purpose is to keep water out. On a roof they are used around the chimney, skylights, at the intersection of a wall and a roof, cant strips (where a roof and wall meet), hips/ridges, parapet walls (where the exterior roof wall extends above the roof line), roof protrusions (plumbing vent stacks), and, roof valleys (where two roof planes meet). The material used for flashing can be from galvanized steel, copper, sheet lead, polyethylene and EPDM membrane.

Ice Damming — is caused by the freeze-thaw action of snow built up on a roof. Commonly this occurs at the eavestroughs. As the snow/ice melts it is trapped by a lower ice dam and backing water underneath the shingles. This can wreak havoc not only with the shingles but the underlay/sheathing material. The cause for this can be heat escaping from through poorly insulated and ventilated attic spaces. Eave protection (waterproof membrane) under the shingles and extending about 3 feet into the insulated attic space will also reduce the risk of ice damming.

What are some different Roof Styles?

Curb — a roof where the slope is in two or more parts on two or more sides creating a “curb” at the pane where the pitches changes

Gable — a ridge roof ending in a gable

Gable Dormer — same as a gable but with dormers (internal recess in the roof space) in the roof plane

Gambrel — a roof slope that is in two parts with the lower part steeper than the upper

Hip — a roof that has its entire sides slope up to a centre point or ridge

Mansard — a type of curb roof with the slope of the upper portion not great and the lower portion steep

Monitors — a type of gable roof often used with commercial buildings that is raised at the ridge to provide for windows

Pavilion — a roof that forms a figure of more than four sides

Pent — a single sloping surface that is not a lean-to roof

Polygonal — a roof that forms a figure bound by more than four straight lines

Pyramid — a hip roof usually with four equally pitched side meeting at a peak

Ridge — two opposing roof slopes joined at the top with a gable at each end

Shed — a roof with only one set of rafters that usually extends from a higher point on one wall to a lower part of another wall

Shed Dormer — same as a shed roof but with dormers

Certain styles of homes have, for example, vaulted/sloped ceilings that can have little, or no, attic space to inspect. Generally speaking, these types of homes can have poorer ventilation underneath the roof covering, rafters and underlay material. That is, there is less of an “air wash” under the roof than homes with traditional attic spaces. This can reduce the life spans of these and other building related materials and cause concerns, such as, moisture, mildew, and fungus in these areas.

If you’re considering an addition to your home, or buying a new home, scissor trusses can create a lesser vaulted/sloped ceiling yet still provide a smaller attic space. Alternatively, wood “I” beams which are deep enough can be used as rafters for these types of ceilings and still provide some “air wash” after the insulation has been installed.

Round TUIT & Pi Day – Suggestions & Tips #105

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round tuit & pi day

Round TUIT & Pi day?!?! Well, you can never stress enough things that need to get on your to do list, so we thought a friendly reminder might be order.

On Pi Day (3.14…or March 14) readers might take a look at our Resource Centre for topics about all sorts of household items, including maintenance items, to jog your memory as to the importance of doing regular & periodic maintenance round your home. Deferring maintenance can contribute to the overall demise of a home, and there is perhaps no other singularly important tip than to seal / weatherproof round the entire house (or building envelope). So, to avoid getting a Round TUIT award, start planning your home’s spring maintenance now, before the next Pi day comes round 🙂

If you don’t know where to start, have us round to inspect and give you an itemized list.

Rubber Hoses – Suggestions & Tips #131

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rubber hoses

Your house is filled with a maze of all sorts of pipes used for water supply and drainage. Sometimes it can look like a maze, figuring out where they all lead to or come from. Other times, they are installed with such precision they are a piece of artwork!

Traditionally, water supply lines are made of copper however in the past you will find galvanized steel and lead. Recently PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) is being used new homes or in renovation work.

DWV (drain, waste, vent) pipes on the other hand are made from cast iron, copper, PVC (polyvinyl chloride) but more commonly today ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) or all black stuff for short :).

What we don’t like to see are rubber hoses (as pictured above) as these are for temporary use. A garden hose is a great example where after each use you turn the tap off and that relieves the pressure in the hose. In this picture, a considerable portion of the water supply lines in the house used rubber hoses. Just like the hoses to your washing machine, they can burst if you don’t turn the water supply off after each use.

Avoid floods and damage to your property. Use the proper materials when doing plumbing work…and call a professional  for help!

Read more about plastic pipes here.

S Trap Problems – Suggestions & Tips #153

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S Traps

It’s called an S trap because it looks like the letter “S” when the configuration is laid on its side and flattened out. S traps are commonly found in homes that are older, have not been updated or where the plumbing work was not professionally done. This S trap style configuration is no longer permissible.

So what’s the big deal? They’ve been used for years, why the concern? These unvented S traps are often found under kitchen / bathroom sinks. Without a vent to allow air into the plumbing system, they often don’t drain well and can make a gurgling sound while draining. More importantly though, the water in the S trap can get back-syphoned or sucked out of the trap allowing dangerous sewer gases (potentially explosive methane) to enter the home. Today, we use a P traps which provide a a vent for the plumbing system, allowing for better drainage and the venting of sewer gases.

Not surprisingly, there are also other configurations on a theme as well however they don’t necessarily all look like the letter S. In fact, some don’t resemble any letter of the alphabet at all 🙂 The point being, if the plumbing system does not use today’s P trap then it will prone to problems.

Protect yourself…get it inspected!

Safety Tips

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If you live in a building, it could always be a little bit safer. Here are some safety tips for you to consider.

Smoke Detectors – test them monthly and as an easy reminder date replace the battery when adjusting the clock for day-light savings time.

Garage – when the garage is attached to the house reduce the chance of carbon monoxide from entering the home by sealing cracks in the adjoining walls & weather-stripping the entrance door into the house.

Lighting – ensure there is adequate lighting leading up to and at the access points into a home.

Rigid Foam Insulation – ensure this insulation is removed or covered with the appropriate fire retardant material.

Exit Doors – install dead bolts & proper patio door locking devises on all exit doors. Ensure they can be opened manually from the interior. Avoid installation immediately adjacent to glass.

Garage Door Openers – a garage door with an automatic opener should either stop or reverse itself if there is an obstruction in its way or it is given slight resistance. If this is not the case consider repairing or replacing the unit.

Do you have any other safety tips to share? If so, please leave a comment below!

Sandblasted Brickwork – Suggestions & Tips #91

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sandblasted brick

Does the home you are looking to buy or already own have sandblasted brick? There are some things you should know to help with its longevity.

Sometimes brickwork on a home has been sandblasted to remove grime or a previously painted surface. Unfortunately, during the process of sandblasting it can remove the glazing on the brick, making them more porous. With the bricks being more  porous it can allow water / moisture to wick-up into the brick. This deteriorates the brickwork faster causing spalling (brick face can come off or become / damaged) to occur during freeze-thaw cycles.

Sealing the brickwork can assist with slowing this process down, however it must be done on a regular basis, perhaps every 2 to 5 years.

Seller Property Information Sheet (SPIS) – Suggestions & Tips #6

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seller property information sheet

Consult your professional realtor® and or lawyer about having the vendor of the subject property complete a Seller Property Information Sheet (SPIS) or vendor disclosure document for your review. After all, it’s likely the single biggest purchase you will make in your lifetime.

The discovery of defects that were known but undisclosed at the time of purchase can spoil what should be one of the happiest moments in a purchaser’s life. You should be able to ask and get answers to any questions you have about the property. A document such as this is a great starting place in doing your due diligence on the property.

Although some feel these disclosure forms are contentious, we believe that more information through full disclosure about the property can help to better inform buyers about one of the largest investments in their lives. Read more from the Ontario Real Estate Association on how buyers can protect themselves by asking for a Seller Property Information Statement (SPIS) from vendors.

Septic System For Your Home- Suggestions & Tips #84

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septic systems

A septic systems is an excellent method of treating household waste that can operate reliably for years. There are different types of sewage systems classes which have or can be utilized under various circumstances.

Unfortunately, a septic system can fail. The telltale signs of distress can include:

  1. greener grass or extra plant growth over the leaching bed
  2. brown or burnt grass in dryer times may indicate the system is too full
  3. the leaching bed area may be spongy
  4. slow drainage from plumbing fixtures
  5. odours may be present after it’s been raining or when water consumption is high
  6. the presence of darker coloured effluent on the surface of the leaching bed or nearby
  7. sometimes this effluent will back-up into the plumbing fixtures in the home.

It’s important if buying a home to have the septic system inspected. If you own a home with one then maintenance is key. There is no need to pump out the septic tank all the time either, as much of the bacteria or digestive enzymes are need to breakdown the waste. Only when the sludge accumulates because the bacteria cannot decompose the sludge any longer will you want to pump the tank out.

Click here for more information on septic systems.

Septic System Maintenance

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Septic system maintenance is straight forward:

  • About every 2 to 5 years have the solids pumped from your tank.
  • Conserve water usage.
  • Don’t dispose of anything that can easily be put into the trash.
  • Avoid putting coffee grounds, grease and cooking oils down the drains.
  • Use toilet paper that is biodegradable and approved for use in septic systems
  • Don’t plant trees within 6 feet of the septic system. Don’t allow anyone to drive over or park on the septic system.
  • Don’t allow livestock over the septic system.
  • Don’t cover the drainage field with concrete or asphalt. Grass should be the only cover.
  • Don’t pour harmful chemicals or cleansers into the system.
  • Don’t repair the septic system without obtaining the required permits from authorities having jurisdiction in these matters.
  • When making repairs, use a licensed septic contractor.
  • If you must inspect the septic system use appropriate caution…toxic gases from the tanks can kill in minutes. Better yet, hire a licensed professional.
  • Make an accurate diagram showing the location of your septic tank and drainage field.
  • Keep accurate detailed records of pumping, inspection and other maintenance carried out.
  • To simplify tank access for inspection and maintenance, install a watertight concrete riser over the septic tank.
  • Do not plan any building additions, pools, driveways, or other construction work near the septic tank, drainage field.
  • Do not flush items that are not biodegradable.

Should you use additives with your system or not? Chemical additives are strong acids or alkalis, or organic solvents. Biological additives are cultures of harmless bacteria, plus waste-digesting enzymes. These sometimes contain yeast cultures.

If a homeowner is not misusing the septic system then these products will likely be of no benefit. The quantity of material added with each dose of these products is very small compared to the biological material already present and working in the tank.

Sometimes, your system can be upset when the septic tank bacteria are harmed or destroyed. This can happen if the home is vacant for a long period and the tank receives no fresh wastewater, or if strong cleaning agents are flushed down the drain. After a few days of normal use, the biological system in the tank will re-establish itself. In this situation the biological additives may help speed the recovery of the septic tank.

Every septic tank needs to be pumped periodically, because all waste water contains inert matter that cannot be degraded in the tank. No additive can do away with this need.

Could an additive harm your system? — The biological additives are unlikely to be harmful. The chemical additives could definitely harm your system. These products have the potential to sterilize your system temporarily. The resulting passage of raw sewage into the drainage field will hasten its failure. The acid and alkali products can corrode the plumbing and the tank. The organic solvents pass through the system unchanged. They can then infiltrate into the groundwater, creating a chemical plume that endangers nearby wells.

Sewage System Classes – Suggestions & Tips #49

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sewage system

Not everyone has the same idea as to what a great sewage system is.

The Ontario Building Code classifies sewage systems according to design and function:

  • Class 1 (Privy, Portable, Incinerating & Composting Toilets) – Designed for the disposal of human body waste only (no added water).
  • Class 2 (Leaching Pit) – Designed for the treatment and disposal of a calculated amount of grey water (sewage other than human body waste).
  • Class 3 (Cesspool) – Designed to only receive the contents of a Class 1 sewage system.
  • Class 4 (Septic System) – Designed to receive specific amounts of sanitary sewage and includes a treatment unit septic tank, secondary treatment tank and conventional leaching bed.
  • Class 5 (Holding Tank) – Designed to retain sanitary sewage on-site in a holding tank, and emptied by a licensed sewage hauler.

Depending on where you live, your site specifications and parameters will determine which sewage system can be used. If you have the wrong type, it will likely need to be decommissioned as generally, two types would not be permissible.

Should Mortgage Lenders Insist Their Clients Have A Home Inspection? – Suggestion & Tips #172

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Some mortgage lenders will not place a mortgage on certain homes because they have, for example, asbestos, vermiculite, UFFI (urea formaldehyde foam insulation), knob & tube wiring, 60 amp electrical services, galvanized / cast / PEX plumbing pipes, structural issues, mould, marijuana grow-op or that are illegal duplexes / triplexes to mention but a few. So it begs the questions, how do lenders know: What’s in the house? What condition is the house in?

Mortgage lenders can certainly ask a homebuyer for any information that they might be aware of, something might grab the lender’s attention in the Offer to Purchase perhaps, the real estate appraiser might make them aware of something, maybe the realtor, a lawyer, a party to the deal or simply a friend of a friend offered up some information. Naturally, a good source of information in this regard can come from a home inspection report. However, in today’s hot real estate market where there are multiple offers and the “best” offer is accepted by the seller that may not only have the highest price, but that is the cleanest in terms of conditions…which typically can mean, no financing and or home inspection conditions. This can create issues then when a lender does their due diligence:

  • The homebuyer may say that they are unaware of those key “lending requirement” triggers in the home because they believe it to be true, but have not verified it…or simply don’t know any better.
  • The real estate appraiser typically does not verify these items. For example, they rarely if ever would go into an attic space to find vermiculite or grow-op issues, they don’t take the electrical panel off to confirm the electrical service size and or they are not trained to identify many of the other items noted above. In any event, they don’t typically spend that type of time at the home looking for those items specifically, in part because they may not impact market value. The appraiser does not review the home inspector’s report to see how it might impact value.
  • Some lenders may feel that if homeowners can get insurance then the insurer must have checked matters out as they too won’t insure home’s with certain items present. However, insurance brokers / agents rarely if ever visit the property prior to placing coverage relying ostensibly on client information.

So, what happens if the lender becomes aware that these items are present e.g. at renewal time? The homeowner will likely be faced with remedying these items or finding another lender willing to take on the home. On the other hand, maybe they’re ready to sell their home when these items are discovered and the new homebuyer can’t get a mortgage leaving them, stuck with the house or having to drop their price. Of course, had they known of this when they bought their home they would have ensured the price they were paying for the house reflected this or would have renegotiated the price from the get go.

What if you have to make a claim on your insurance and these items are there? It’s quite conceivable they’ll be asked to remedy them straight away in order maintain their insurance. If they have a claim as a result of one of those items, they will likely be denied coverage because there simply isn’t coverage or due to the fact that they failed to disclose a material fact. This can cause premiums to go up on renewal, or simply that they will not get their homeowner’s insurance policy renewed.

One last thing…so, a homebuyer’s income meets the lender’s requirements for repayment, the appraisal on the property came in at the right value (based on its current condition) and they meet all the other lending requirements. So what happens if the house needs $50,000 worth of work that has not been identified by anyone, for example, to remediate the asbestos, replace the furnace and air conditioner, the roof, etc. What then? Mortgage lenders might ask themselves these questions…

  • As part of our due diligence / risk management, what definitive answers do we need proof of before lending?
  • Should we simply recommend or insist upon clients that they have a home inspection carried out to protect them not only upfront but down the line too?
  • Are we acting in our clients best interests?
  • Are we missing an opportunity for Purchase Plus Improvements?
  • By having clients get an inspection will it strengthen our client relationship & make “client’s for life”?
  • How can we help our mortgage clients and stand out above the rest?

Slab On Grade Construction – Suggestions & Tips #68

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slab on grade

There are varying types of slab on grade construction, but often it refers to a slab that is a single layer of concrete and several inches thick. There are three basic / common types used depending on its application:

  • Floating slab – can take various forms: (a) a concrete pad that floats on soil or gravel, perhaps for use as a patio or a shed to rest on. Generally, these have little or no structural value as a result. (b) more commonly the other style floating concrete slab rests between the foundation walls of a house with crushed stone beneath it and might act as a basement or garage floor.
  • Supported slab – is similar to a floating slab, however it rests on a ledge created in the foundation wall (see right picture). It too rests on gravel.
  • Monolithic slab – is a continuous pour of concrete that is thicker at the edges to form a footing (with steel reinforcing rods used to strengthen them). The slab rests on a bed of crushed gravel to improve drainage.

Slabs are often built or move out of level, and can contain cracks with no significant vertical or horizontal displacement and not regarded as a concern. When designed correctly the slab should evacuate any water that might potentially accumulate.

Snow Covered Decks – Suggestions & Tips #94

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Snow covered decks are beautiful to look at. If you don’t use your deck, it would represent way more work if you had to clean it off, but there are reasons why you should.

Removing snow and ice from your deck reduces trip and fall hazards, and more so if you have stairs connected to the deck. Getting rid of the snow on decks around the house and foundation can also reduces the chance of water penetration into your home as well. This can occur either when the snow / ice naturally melts or does so as a result of heat loss from the home. In any event, it’s best to keep water away from your home ensuring there are proper drainage slopes.

When removing the snow from your deck, use a plastic snow shovel and shovel lengthwise along the boards (with the grain) to minimize surface damage. Avoid using salt / ice melters on your deck which may discolour / damage some surfaces. Try sand for traction, mindful that it can damage surfaces too.

While less of a concern with pressure treated wood, snow removal is more important with cedar. If you have vinyl or composite deck material, check with the manufacturer being mindful that these surfaces can be very slippery when snow / ice / dampness is present.

Soil Erosion or Settlement Around Your Foundation – Suggestions & Tips #117

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soil erosion or settlement

You may have noticed around the perimeter of your home’s foundation wall that some soil erosion or settlement has occurred and wondered what might be going on. It may be in one or more area, and there can be a number of reasons for this, for example:

  1. When your home was originally constructed, they excavate for the foundation wall and create an area or cavity for the weeping tiles to lay at the bottom of the foundation wall. Once completed, material is backfilled around the perimeter of the foundation wall. This new material may then settle as it is not as dense as the undisturbed soil around it.  As such, the grade of the yard may slope towards the home’s foundation creating the potential for water / moisture penetration into the basement / crawlspace.
  2. It may simply be that your downspouts do not have extensions on them in these locations to carry the water at least 6’ away from the house. and compacts loose backfill around the foundation walls.
  3. On the other hand, it may indicate that the weeping tiles or drainage tiles around the base of the foundation wall used to evacuate water. They may now be blocked with soil, silt, crushed and or damaged.

If you are experiencing these types of symptoms, its best to have a professional investigate further for you.

Something To Remember When You Change Your Clocks – Suggestions & Tips #13

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InsideSmokeDetector

If it’s time to change your clocks, it’s time to change your batteries in your smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors.

A general rule of thumb is to have at least one smoke, heat & gas detector per level (and preferably per bedroom too). Electric powered detectors are good, as there is no requirement to change batteries. On the other hand, battery powered work when the power is interrupted for whatever reason. A combination of both is best.

There are two main types of smoke alarms: ionization detectors which respond more quickly to flaming fires with smaller combustion particles and photoelectric detectors which respond more quickly to smouldering fires. Having both types may increase your chances of early detection of a fire.

Pregnant women, infants, children, senior citizens, smokers, persons with heart or respiratory problems may experience symptoms from carbon monoxide at lower levels of exposure than can be detected by their sensor. These individuals may require audible and visual signals for carbon monoxide concentrations at lower levels. Inter-connected detectors (electric and security system versions typically) will all sound if just one “rings”.

Please note that manufacturers may recommend the replacement of their detectors on a regular basis, such as every 5 years. Test your detectors at least monthly (preferably weekly) and change batteries at least twice a year. Read more about smoke detectors, gas sensors and alarms here…

Staged Homes – Suggestions & Tips #89

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staged homes

Staged homes look beautiful and can often entail considerable work. If you are buying a stage home, there are some things you should consider.

Some staging work can be extensive. During the process defects may have been discovered that may or may not have been remedied. So it’s important to check a few things:

  • We recommend you ascertain from, for example, the vendor or other professionals the purpose and extent of any work, as well as the adequacy of same.
  • Request a disclosure statement from the staging company (with the Vendor’s consent) regarding discovered defects, work carried out to remedy them and any remaining warranties / guarantees available to you regarding this work including any such paperwork / certificates / transfer information necessary for your records.

Staging is great for both the seller and the buyer, but do your homework so you know that any work performed meets with your expectations.

Stair Hazard – Buying A Stairway to Heaven? – Suggestions & Tips #146

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These doors need stairs.

She’s quite possibly is buying a stairway to heaven…if she or her family & friends don’t see this stair hazard or rather the missing stairs.

Of course, it’s unsafe not to have stairs / step where you need them (see pictures above). You may also be surprised to know that this is one of the alarm bells with insurance brokers, as they doesn’t like this added liability being taken on. Infants, children and pets, not to mention a friend on a 2nd beer, may be unable to navigate or misjudge the drop (or step up), if they know it’s even missing in the first place.

As a result, when conditions such as these are present, the homeowner should prevent persons from entering / exiting from these doors until stairs with proper handrails are in place. In addition, there should also be an appropriate landing area atop a staircase so that trip / fall hazards can be minimized. These landing areas will likely also require guardrails with balusters / spindles secured and spaced accordingly. It’s also important that the riser height and tread depths are consistent on the stairs so they are easy to negotiate. Lastly, stair riser heights, tread widths, handrail heights and the height of any guardrails are also critical in reducing the chance of trip / fall hazards.

 

Staircase Safety – Suggestions & Tips #107

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staircase safety

Staircase safety is critical in preventing trip, slip & fall hazards. Stairs may be more of a concern for seniors but they can be equally dangerous for everyone.

Here are a few things to look out for:

  • Proper railing heights not only on the stairs but at landings are critical.
  • Spacing of the balusters / spindles to prevent an infant from falling through.
  • Securement of these railings and guardrails is also overlooked or their maintenance postponed until it’s too late.
  • Riser height and tread depth if not consistent and sufficient can be a fall / trip hazard.
  • Ensure the staircase is well-lit.
  • Do not use the stairs for storage.
  • Make sure landing areas are free and clear at both the top and bottom of the stairs, or any midway landings
  • If there are runners or carpeting on the stairs, ensure they are well secured.
  • Stairs should have adequate headroom and not be too steep
  • Avoid stairs with smooth or slippery surfaces.
  • Ensure stair treads are level from side to side and front to back.

Some insurance companies have concerns with stair cases and may insist on remedial action.

If you’re concerned about making a home more accessible for a loved one, get it inspected.

Steam Showers – Suggestions & Tips #35

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steam showers

Interested in steam showers but not sure what’s involved? Steam therapy isn’t new and it’s said to improve overall health, not to mention your spirits too.

The moisture that a steam unit generates however is considerable and can cause damage not only to the shower stall itself but the entire bathroom, unless it’s built properly from the studs out to make it steam / waterproof. The moisture created can also cause problems with mould if the shower is not properly constructed.

While the building of a stream shower is similar to a regular shower, there are some distinct differences that must be addressed.  You need to ensure for example that you:

  • slope the shower stall ceiling slightly;
  • protect the wood studs with 6-mil poly-sheeting;
  • seal the seams of any concrete board;
  • cover the concrete board with a waterproof membrane;
  • seal around any fixtures that penetrate the tile (such as shower / steam heads, digital controls, and valves) with the gaskets;
  • have a great exhaust fan.

Properly built, steam showers can be relaxing and a good stress reliever. Design & install your steam shower for years of worry free use.

Steel Framed Homes

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Although steel framed homes have been built in the past they are becoming more and more popular today. Traditionally, houses have been built with wood during the last few hundred years and old growth trees have provided good building materials. Today, with fewer old growth trees around and environmental concerns, the price of wood has increased while supplies have decreased. For years, we have come to rely on the strength and durability of steel in commercial buildings, hospitals and children’s schools. Now, steel is a feasible alternative building material for residential construction.

The reasons for using steel as a building material and method include the fact that it is:

  • Cost-effective
  • Creates a durable, safe and strong structure
  • Impervious to termite damage
  • A variety of steel framing sizes, shapes and gauges is available
  • Reduces work for other trades as it has pre-punched holes for running piping and electrical wiring
  • Accommodates all types of commonly used finishing materials
  • Increased design flexibility, accommodating larger open spaces without interior load-bearing walls.
  • Inorganic — it won’t crack, warp, twist, rot, split or settle like wood framing might.
  • Non-combustible – does not burn and will not contribute fuel to the spread of a fire
  • Dimensionally stable – does not expand or contract with moisture content
  • Consistent material quality – produced in strict accordance with national standards, no regional variations
  • Not vulnerable to any type of fungi or organism
  • Less probability of foundation problems – less weight results in less movement
  • Less probability of damage in high winds – stronger connections, screwed versus nailed

There are three basic methods of constructing steel frame homes:

  1. Stick-built — steel framing is similar to wood, except that steel components are fastened with screws, rather than nails.
  2. Panellized systems  — reduces time at the building site and may allow a building to be framed in one third of the time it takes to complete a traditional wood framed home.
  3. Pre-engineered systems  — offers high strength and design flexibility. Most of the fabrication is completed off site by the supplier and in many cases may allow 7a home to be framed in as little as one day.

Street Creep – Suggestions & Tips #32

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street creep

Street creep is a term referring to movement in a driveway of a home that is located at the end of a T-intersection, on a circle / cul-de-sac or on an outside curve of a street.

Normal traffic, temperature, gravity and or settlement pushes the concrete street against the driveway moving it towards the home causing cracks in the foundation. You may notice signs of street creep if:

  • there are expansion joints present that have compressed
  • there are gaps behind foundation walls on either side of the garage door
  • movement in your foundation / basement walls pushed by the garage slab floor
  • cracks in the wall where the foundation and garage floor meet.

A simple remedy for street creep is to install a buffer zone between the street and the driveway if possible. Expansion joints can help to prevent street creep. Repairs to damaged areas can be costly, and your insurance company or local municipality may not come to your rescue.

Student Housing & Your Child’s Safety – Suggestions & Tips #122

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college students returning to school

Do you have college or university students heading off or returning to school? Now is the time to talk safety around the house and to be on the look out for the tell tale signs of problems with their student housing living accommodations.

If you’ve got kids living in college or university off-campus rental units, wise parents can help their children determine if their accommodations are safe. Here are just a few things to look out for:

  • ensure sufficient there are working smoke alarms & carbon monoxide detectors – it’s the law. We recommend at least one of each per level and per bedroom. Are they interconnected with other tenant’s rooms or adjacent building units so they will “go off” if a fire starts in their rooms / units?
  • call the local Municipality to find out if the property is zoned correctly for its intended use e.g. as a rental property, rooming house, multi-tenant use
  • aside from tenants insurance, obtain a Certificate of Insurance from the landlord that sufficient insurance coverage is in place for its use.
  • contact the local Fire Department / Fire Marshall to ensure the property has been inspected recently and that there are no outstanding work orders.
  • ensure electrical wiring is safe e.g. lights don’t flicker; cover plates are present on receptacles / switches; electrical panel, fuses / breakers are in good working order; no exposed wiring or unsecured receptacles / switches are present; and, that proper ground fault / arc fault protection is present.
  • ascertain gas appliances have been properly maintained and are safe for operation e.g. the heating system (furnace); cook top / oven / stove; barbeque; and, fireplace .
  • is the wood burning fireplace or wood stove safe to use? Has it been cleaned / maintained properly? Is the insurance company aware of their presence?
  • is there a hot tub or pool available for use and if so what safety measures are in place regarding them.
  • is there any water / moisture penetration into the building?
  • are decks / balconies supported properly and secured properly to prevent collapse?
  • are handrails and guardrails well secured and an appropriate height, with balusters / spindles spaced properly?
  • are there environmental concerns such as mould, asbestos, lead, etc.?

Not sure what you should be looking for with your children’s student housing? Need help? Get your son’s / daughter’s house, apartment  or residence inspected BEFORE they move in, and better yet before they sign the lease!

We can help to make your child’s time away at school safer … contact us!

Sump Pump Installations? – Suggestions & Tips #128

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sump pump installations

Do you know how your sump pump is installed? We’ve seen all sorts of sump pump installations over the years, configured in different ways and discharging to various locations.

Sump pumps connected to a sanitary sewer contravenes Ontario Building Code. This practice could overload waste water treatment plants. As a result, a sump pump should discharge either to a dedicated storm sewer if available, or better yet, to the lawn at least 2 metres away from the home to prevent penetration back into the building.

Sump pump discharge pipes require a check valve to prevent water in the pipe above the sump pump from coming back into the house after the pump shuts off. The length of discharge pipe should be as short as possible to reduce pump stress. Sump pumps should also be on their own dedicated electrical circuit. in the event of power interruption, a battery back-up is advisable.

If you’re not sure how your sump pump is configured, get it inspected!

Surge Protection – Suggestions & Tips #71

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surge protection

Surge protection is designed to reduce the random energy surges of voltage. While lightning strikes are commonly associated with power (voltage) surges, other sources include downed power lines and major appliances like your air conditioner cycling on & off.

Individual “plug-in” surge protectors (picture on the left) can’t provide complete protection for everything in your house. They do however provide protection to those items which are plugged into it. They are however rated for their protection, that is not every surge protector power bar is the same. They come in varying sizes (rated in “joules”) protection. So, generally, the larger the joules the more protection it affords you. They don’t last forever and may need replacement especially if subjected to repeated surges or enough larger surges. Whole house surge protection (picture on the right) guards all your electrical devices in the home e.g. electronic equipment, household appliances, telephone & cable TV against big power spikes.

These surge suppression devices act as pressure relief valves to divert excess voltage. Whole-house suppressors are hard-wired to the service panel by a licensed electrician, however they can’t stop all surges. So a second layer of protection using “plug-in” devices doesn’t hurt.

Be prepared when the next electrical surge hits your home.

Tar & Gravel Roofs – Suggestions & Tips #164 – Grassroots®

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tar & gravel roofs

There are a number of different types of “built-up roofs” that are often simply referred to as flat roofs. They include: tar & gravel, single ply membrane, multi-ply membrane, protected membrane roofs and insulated membrane roof assembly.

slope pitchFlat roofs aren’t in fact flat really but rather have a low slope to them for drainage purposes. They are considered flat when their “pitch” or slope is: 2/12 or less. In other words, when the rise of the roof is 2” (or less) for every 12” of run. As you might well imagine then, it’s key that the roof covering be “sealed” or water-tight and provide for the efficient evacuation of water from the roof.

Most commonly these flats are found on commercial buildings, however “tar & gravel” roofs and some membrane roofing materials are also found on residential roofs. They can be used in conjunction with sloped roofs on the same home or building as well.

Tar & gravel roofs have multiple plies of roofing felts with asphalt applied between them. The term “tar” in this type of system comes from coal tar that was used on these roofs. Over the final layer of asphalt, gravel is broadcast to provide wear protection and reduce UV degradation. Some roofers may use roll roofing instead for the final layer however the life span (about 5 to 10 years) is far less than gravel (about 10 to 20 years for 4 ply and 5 to 10 years for 2 ply). In fact, some use gravel on top of other types of roofing systems to provide surface protection and to act as a UV inhibitor also (see left picture). In either case, if the gravel is displaced / not evenly distributed then the materials beneath are subject to damage by sunlight or otherwise. Other factors affecting the deterioration of the tar and gravel roofs are largely associated with its installation, maintenance, amount / distribution of gravel, and, sunlight. Over the years, some continue to apply tar as a stop-gap measure to extend the life of the roof. Eventually however, the tar cracks / deteriorates (see middle picture) creating the potential for water / moisture penetration into the building. Further, sometimes the tar will bubble-up or blister (see right picture) making it prone for water entry as well.

If you are going to buy, or already own, a home / building with a tar & gravel roof, protect yourself…get it inspected.

More information about other Roofing Systems.

Termites

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Subterranean termites, most notably the Reticulitermes flavipes, are likely the most destructive and vastly distributed species in North America. About 30 municipalities in Ontario report infestation concerns to some extent.

They were first reported in Ontario at Point Pelee in 1929. For example, they were subsequently reported in Toronto (1938), Windsor (1950), Kincardine (1954), Oxley (1955), Amherstburg and Dresden (1968), and, Guelph (1975). The Metropolitan Toronto area is thought to be infested in an area extending through a 30 KM radius.

Since soil provides moisture for these creatures it is their main source of life support. Consequently they form shelter tubes constructed of soil and excrement or secretions that connect the exterior soil to a building. The presence of shelter tubes is the first sign of a termite infestation. The tubes are about 6 mm to 12 mm wide and can extend for several centimetres until wood is discovered.

The termite’s food comes from the cellulose in the wood that it eats from between the growth rings. Although decaying wood is a favourite they can and will feast on perfectly good, dry wood.

The damage by these termites in wood is usually not noticeable on the surface. They do not reduce the wood to a powdery mass, or leave wood particles on the outside of the as do other wood-boring insects like carpenter ants and powder post beetles.

What can you do to reduce your chances of a termite infestation?

  • Remove all scrap wood and wood products from around the property.
  • Improve the surface water drainage around the property. Repair leaks, check eavestroughs, downspouts, diverters, and, slope walkways and driveways away from the house.
  • Ensure that there is good ventilation under porches, and, in crawl spaces.
  • Ensure the soil-to-wood (for example wood siding, decks) clearance is good, preferably, 45 cm from the soil. Lattice work under a porch or a deck, for example, should be 50 to 75 cm from the soil. Don’t forget wood steps too.
  • Seal up holes and cracks, such as those around utility lines and pipes with caulking or commercial sealers.
  • Store fire wood off the ground.
  • Take care when obtaining soil and discarded wood material from known infested areas. This may include transplanting rose bushes from someone else’s home, for example.

If you have concerns about termites call a licensed termite exterminator.

The Air You Breathe – Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) Suggestions & Tips #4

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indoor air quality

How prepared are you? How prepared do you need to be?

When it’s cold outside, it means the windows & doors at your home or place of work are shut to keep the heat in . . . and that means your indoor air quality (IAQ) worsens as well.

The air we breathe outside is normally far better than the air trapped indoors which can contain a variety of pollutants both chemical and biological, such as:

  • carbon monoxide (CO)
  • formaldehyde (HCHO)
  • mould
  • dust mites

There are also a number of health related issues associated with IAQ. Some mimic common cold & flu symptoms making their recognition difficult. These issues are only heightened for the medically fragile, persons with upper respiratory issues and environmentally sensitive individuals. Click here to learn more about your indoor air quality.

The Inspector is Coming! – Suggestions & Tips #83

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inspector is coming

Selling your home? If so, chances are the buyers will have it inspected first and the inspector will find things to report. With the inspector coming, what can you do to prepare?

There are a number of things sellers can do to reduce the list of items in the inspection report with some preparation efforts by ensuring:

  1. there is free & clear access in the house, for example, to the attic, basement, electrical panels, furnace, etc.;
  2. make minor repairs to door / window hardware, plumbing fixtures, trim work, floors, roof, damaged/missing cover plates on electrical boxes & burnt out light bulbs are replaced;
  3. ensure eavestroughs are secured, cleaned & vegetation around the house is trimmed where possible;
  4. check to see that kitchen/bathroom fans are operational & vent to the exterior of the home;
  5. make sure the garage door and opener are functioning;
  6. ensure the furnace, water heater, fireplace, air conditioner & appliances are functional cleaned & serviced recently;
  7. ensure utilities & pilot lights are left on;
  8. have remotes & keys to locked areas area available;
  9. test to see that ground fault (GFI) and arc fault (AFCI) protection is working where needed;
  10. owner’s manuals/installation specs, warranties/guarantees & utility bills are available.

Not sure what to do? Have your house pre-inspected. This will give you a chance to prepare properly, correct those items identified by the inspector that you choose to or simply be aware of what the buyers inspector may discover.

For more information see Preparing Your House For Inspection.

Thermostat Set Back / Forward – Suggestions & Tips #100

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thermostat set back

Everyone knows that thermostat set back can save on energy costs. So, how much should you set it back by? It’s not as easy as you might think.

When you turn back your thermostat you have an opportunity to reduce your energy costs. However, when you set it back too much, your furnace has to work harder to get the heat back up to temperature and may offset savings, especially if your house is not air-tight or well insulated. Of course, this is amplified by the length of time you have the thermostat set back for too. For example, should you set it back by a different amount if you’re away for the day at work versus out for the evening for dinner and a movie.

CMHC states that” “a drop of 2°C (3.6°F) will lead to some savings and little risk. Some householders reduce temperatures 4°C to 6°C (7°F to 11°F). However, temperature differences this large can create potential comfort and moisture problems”. As well, it yields a more humid environment and increases the potential for mould growth.

As for energy savings, research from the Canadian Centre for Housing Technology states that: “winter setbacks for the houses tested would result in heating cost savings of five to fifteen per cent. The highest savings came with a setback of 6°C (11°F). Savings for the summer were about the same, although simply raising the thermostat set point in the summer from 22°C (71°F) to 24°C (75°F) led to more significant savings than the set-forward strategy and also offered better indoor humidity control. Note that these savings are for two airtight, well-insulated, unoccupied houses. The savings in your home may vary but are likely to be in the same range.”

If you’re not doing this already, consider giving it a try and monitor your results!

Thirsty? What about Reverse Osmosis (RO) Drinking Water? – Suggestions & Tips #161

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RO system

If you are buying / own a rural or waterfront property, chances are that you likely obtain your drinking water supply from a well, cistern or lake / river. Generally, none of these will continuously pass potable water testing nor should they be relied upon for such. As a result, homeowners look to other ways to make the water safe to drink. Most commonly, this is accomplished with a UV (ultraviolet) light and particle filter at a minimum. Some choose to chlorinate their water instead of using a UV light. While this typically makes the water safe to drink, other steps can be taken to improve odour, remove minerals and soften the water if need be. At this point, you might say your water is city water quality like. So why use an RO system in addition to this whether you like in an urban or rural location?

For years, large high pressure RO systems have been used to convert seawater into drinking water. In a home however, the RO system might be thought of as polishing your potable water supply. It reduces the total dissolved inorganic solids and impurities from the water by pushing your potable water supply through a membrane. The membrane catches impurities / contaminates so they can be flushed down the drain. Generally, the RO membrane removes impurities and particles larger than .001 microns. They can include lead, chloride, nickel, arsenic, zinc, mercury, iron, calcium, cyanide and fluoride. It does not remove all impurities or all impurities completely however.

Most home RO systems used in homes today are located close to the kitchen sink so it can be used for cooking and to drink. Whole-house RO systems cost more to purchase and operate. The home RO systems usually have pre & post treatment filters, RO membrane, flow regulator, pressure / storage container for treated water and a faucet. A booster pump may be needed in addition to water supply pumps used with rural / lakefront properties. If you need to soften or chlorinate your water, systems such as these are used before the RO system.

RO water does not come without its concerns however:

  • the RO finished water has lower pH and can be corrosive on copper pipes, fittings and fixtures, permitting lead to leach into the drinking water from brass components.
  • RO systems use larger quantities of water to produce a relatively small amount of treated water i.e. it creates waste water (which also adds to the load on a septic system).
  • Water pressure is an important factor in the efficiency of the RO system.
  • RO systems may remove desirable minerals from the water.
  • RO systems must be well maintained to optimize performance by routinely replacing a series of filters.

If you’re thinking about improving your drinking water, a reverse osmosis (RO) system may be for you. Do your research and consult a professional before making any final decisions.

Those Nit-Picking #$%&* Home Inspectors! – Suggestions & Tips #163

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inspector-160143_1280

It’s true, not all inspectors are loved by everyone. Some find that inspectors are too nit-picky and as a result feel the real estate deal fell apart because of this…ah, if it were only that simple.

The fact is a good inspector should document what they see on an inspection no matter how small. They do this for a number of good reasons. The items discovered may require further monitoring by the homeowner over time or they simply may need to put these maintenance items in their Saturday morning job jar or to-do list. More importantly, these seemingly insignificant items may be symptomatic of something larger going on in the home. For example, here are some observations you might find in an inspector’s report:

  • Door binds when opening / closing in the master bedroom
  • Floor slopes slightly in the living room
  • Archway opening not square from the kitchen to the dining room
  • Treads on stairs to 2nd floor are not level

Individually, the above items may seem pretty innocuous however collectively (or not perhaps) they may also be an indicator that the foundation has moved / settled, there is deflection in the support beams or floor joists, and or that the support posts / columns have moved. They are listed in the report as such as the inspector may not be able to ascertain anything further than this through his limited visual & non-destructive inspection. As such, the inspector wants to caution his client and may refer them onto other qualified professionals for further evaluation. Seems straight forward enough, and is not dissimilar to what you would want your doctor to do if listening to your heart and then wanted to send you onto a heart specialist for a second opinion.

Okay, well perhaps you found that example too obvious. So, what about an inspector who has this in their report:

  • Unsecured wiring in the basement & attic
  • Missing cover plate on the family room light switch
  • Ungrounded receptacle in the laundry room
  • Surface mounted wiring not contained within a wall cavity or in a conduit in rec. room?

Each of the above items are likely a simple fix and would cost little to remedy. So why include them in an inspection report? Almost everything associated with an electrical defect is a fire / shock hazard. No one wants to have to face this as left unattended to it could spell disaster. It is also an indicator that the electrical work was not professionally done and that permits for the work were not obtained / inspected by the authorities (if / where required). One need only look at the Fire Statistics from the Ontario Fire Marshal’s Office to realize the importance electrical fires have.

Okay, still not convinced? Here are some other examples:

  • No widow present in the basement bedroom
  • Security bars on the basement windows are bolted on
  • Hot water heater located in bathroom next to shower
  • Gas log lighter in wood-burning fireplace
  • Clothes dryer exhausts into attached garage

Each of the above items may seem insignificant at first glance, but could ultimately kill the occupants of the home. Whether it’s the improper means of egress from a home in the event of a fire or carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning from the improperly installed appliances it’s not enough to just be aware of these safety concerns. They must be corrected to be made safe.

How about now, convinced?

 All these examples may seem trivial art first blush. The defects themselves may currently be in varying degrees of severity too…and not yet at a catastrophic level. Nevertheless, their importance cannot be understated when the potential ramifications can be far reaching. Even if this is ultimately not the case, clients want a list of defects no matter how minor they are so they have a go-to-place for upcoming maintenance. That includes painting, caulking and the likes too. After all, you’d want your auto mechanic to find everything that was wrong with that used care before you bought it, including any burnt out light bulbs that meant it won’t pass a safety check!

It should also be pointed out that a list of defects in the inspector’s report does not automatically mean that the vendor is responsible to repair them or compensate the buyer for them…although it’s possible it may be a negotiating item. Most times you’re not going to want the vendor to affect any repairs to the home and will choose to do them yourself. As a homebuyer, you need to equip yourself with skilled professionals that can calmly lead you through what condition the home is in, detail any work that’s required and how best to go about getting the home ready for you to live in.

If you’re a homebuyer, look for detailed, objective, uncompromised & thorough home inspector before you buy…or you know, one of those nit-picking home inspectors 🙂

Time For A New Laundry Room – Suggestions & Tips #21

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laundry _room

Are you thinking of a new main floor or second floor laundry room? Do you have a laundry room now that’s located on an upper level? A main or second floor laundry room certainly can be convenient, however if there’s a problem repairs can be costly.

With a laundry room installed above finished spaces or where damage beneath the laundry room can add up, it makes sense to try and minimize any damage as a result of water leaking. Of course, it’s not just the damage it might do in that upper laundry room but the spaces below it as well. Here are a few of things to consider:

  1. Install a drain pan under your washing machine to prevent water / moisture damage from leaks or an overflowing washing machine;
  2. Look at sloping say a ceramic tile floor (that has a waterproof membrane under it) towards a floor drain;
  3. If you have a laundry tub but are unable to easily connect directly to your homes drainage system (via a drain pan or a floor drain), set it up so that any water in a drain pan is pumped into an adjacent laundry tub / sink;
  4. Make sure you check the drain pan / floor drain and pumps periodically to ensure they are working as intended. Keep the laundry room floors free of any laundry and obstructions to ensure any water can get to the floor drain and evacuate water properly;
  5. If you have a basement laundry room, it may make sense to install a drain pan there too, especially where you have finished floor areas or you have stored items of value close by; and,
  6. Make sure you turn off the hot & cold water supply to the washing machine after each use.

Reducing the risk of water damage from a washing machine can save a lot of headaches in the future.

If you’re planning a renovation / addition, having your own private inspector involved from the beginning is always prudent.

Trap Primer Importance – Suggestions & Tips #60

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trap primer

A trap primer is an important plumbing device that adds water to a trap. With no water in a trap, dangerous / explosive sewer gases (methane) can enter your home.

Evaporation of the water in a plumbing trap can occur if not replenished. A solution to this problem is the installation of a trap primer. They may be required, for example, if your furnace condensate drains into a trap in the winter but there’s no air conditioner also draining into that same trap in the summer thereby allowing it to dry out. Perhaps the trap for your basement floor drain never gets water added to it or there’s a trap located in a building where explosion hazards are high. In these cases, a trap primer is a must. If you smell sewer gas, it may be an indicator that there is not water in the plumbing trap.

Some laundry tub faucets have built in trap primers that you connect a small plastic hose to for the water supply, while other trap primers are connected directly to the water supply line. Either way, they provide the essential water needed to prevent the trap from drying out by having water slowly drip from them.

If you are buying a home (or own a home) and are unsure whether you require a trap primer, consult a professional.

Tree Roots…and Trees – Suggestions & Tips #79

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tree roots

Tree roots and the trees can be a beautiful thing! However, when they are planted in the wrong location or not properly maintained, they can cause havoc with your home.

Trees can provide plenty of shade and even cool down your house. Often, they get planted to close to the house (see picture above) potentially creating problems with the house, foundation and plumbing. Troubles can arise however when their branches are in contact, approaching or overhanging your roofline. They can cause damage your roof, promote moss / algae / lichen growth on the shingles and prematurely wear your shingles too. It’s also an indicator that the tree’s “dew / drip” line (or tree roots) are knocking at your foundation wall and can cause not only damage to it but sewer lines too.

Properly trimmed trees and “lifting” tree branches away from your house / roof can still provide its cooling effects and reduce the potential for damage to your home.

Turbine Roof Vents – Suggestions & Tips #22

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whirlybird_roof_vent

As a general rule we don’t recommend the use of turbine roof vents (also called “whirlybirds”). These vents are designed to draw air out of the attic when the wind catches their fins.

Unfortunately, in homes that are not “air-tight” it may draw conditioned air (heated or cooled air) up and out through the ATTIC space. In “air-tight” homes, turbine roof vents may cause back drafting to occur with fossil fuel burning appliances (e.g. gas furnace) allowing dangerous by-products of combustion such as Carbon Monoxide (CO) to enter the home. They can also be noisy when in operation and let rain / snow in. Further, if this type of vent is truly needed to vent the attic they will only work as intended in the presence of a breeze.

Ventilation of attic spaces is important and can maximize comfort levels, energy efficiencies and life spans of roof coverings (e.g. shingles), roof decking / underlay material (e.g. plywood sheathing) and the structure itself (e.g. rafters, trusses) when accompanied with proper, and sufficient, insulation and vapour barriers. Attic ventilation when accompanied with proper insulation can assist with “ice damming” issues too. A general rule of thumb is to have about 40% of the venting at the roof ridge area and about 60% from the soffit areas.

Click here for related information on ice damming.

UFFI & Formaldehyde Vapours

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Formaldehyde is an important chemical used widely by manufacturers’ of building materials and household products. It is also a by-product of combustion and certain other natural processes. It can be found in considerably high concentrations either inside or outside. Formaldehyde vapours are odourless unless in high concentrations. Formaldehyde in homes is undesirable. Here are some common sources and issues it can cause.

What is UFFI? — Urea Formaldehyde Foam Insulation (UFFI) was installed primarily in wall cavities during the 1970’s as an energy conservation measure. Its appearance is like ordinary shaving cream. Dry, it can be a white or tan colour, and fluffy like Styrofoam. To ascertain if UFFI is present in a home, samples of insulation must be taken for lab analysis. The presence of UFFI in a home does not determine if Formaldehyde vapours are present as these fumes can come from other areas in the home as well. Homes installed with UFFI many years ago are unlikely to have high levels of Formaldehyde vapours unless, for example, the insulation is damp and interior walls are cracked or the foam is exposed. Even though Formaldehyde vapours from UFFI may not be present in a home, or pose no health concerns, it is still possible that the home’s valuation may be negatively affected by the stigma of UFFI.

How can Formaldehyde Vapours affect you? — The primary health effects come from eye, nose, and, throat irritation. Other symptoms include skin rash, fatigue, wheezing, severe allergic reactions, nausea, headaches, insomnia, depression, diarrhoea, and chest pains. It may also trigger asthma attacks and cause cancer. In older homes that do not have UFFI levels can be at least 3 times lower than newer homes with significant amounts of new pressed wood products.

Common Sources of Formaldehyde — Pressed wood products (hardwood plywood paneling, particle board, fibre board and furniture made with these pressed wood products), nail polish, antiperspirants, permanent press clothing, mattresses, carpeting, tobacco smoke, pesticides, automobile exhaust, emissions from unvented fuel burning appliances (gas stoves & kerosene space heaters), and UFFI.

What can you do if a home has Formaldehyde Vapours or UFFI? – The likelihood of the presence of formaldehyde off gassing in a home with UFFI is quite rare. Certain remedial action may assist in reducing Formaldehyde vapours and has consisted of, for example, with UFFI in the walls, seal cracks, apply two coats of vapour barrier paint (seals off about half the vapours and lasts two years), and apply vinyl or Mylar wallpaper to the walls. Certain caulking and foam-backed tapes can be used to seal the junctions of floors and walls where air can leak and send fumes into the home. Aluminium foil is thought to be the most effective barrier, as formaldehyde fumes cannot penetrate this foil. Removal of UFFI is also possible however can be costly.

Reducing exposure to Formaldehyde vapours may be achieved by the use of air conditioning and dehumidifiers to maintain moderate temperatures and reduce humidity. Mechanical ventilation through the use of a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) can assist as well. Increase ventilation and fresh air into the home especially after bringing new sources of Formaldehyde into the home. Use non-urea based resin products, for example, found in some exterior grade pressed wood products.

What should you do if you suspect a home has Formaldehyde vapours? — A test for Formaldehyde vapours should likely be done first to ascertain its presence. In this way any health concerns can be addressed. If these vapours are present you may wish to determine the various potential sources of it. If you suspect UFFI in the home then samples can be taken for verification. Eliminating UFFI will not necessarily do away with formaldehyde vapours in a home. The reason for this is that Formaldehyde vapours from UFFI often decline over time and other sources may be causing emissions.

Underground Sprinklers & Your Drinking Water – Suggestions & Tips #34

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underground sprinklers

Underground sprinklers and irrigation systems for your lawns can be both convenient and save you time & money.

However, you may be surprised to learn that certain connections to your drinking water supply / potable water system should be protected from contamination with a backflow preventer. Perhaps the most common example outdoors of a “cross connection” is an underground spinkler (irrigation) system. A backflow preventer is required so that non-potable water or substances that may render the water non-potable can’t enter and contaminate your drinking water. In fact, many municipalities require backflow preventers be tested yearly (manufacturers suggest at least annually).

Of course, there are other types of cross connections that can contaminate your drinking water too:

  • a garden hose attached to an outside / garage tap (hose bib) that is connected to a pesticide sprayer;
  • a hose left submerged in a ornamental pool;
  • indoor fixtures such as a toilet;
  • laundry sink connected to a hose (or a handheld shower wand) that is immersed in water.

Still, other connections include boilers, fire protection systems, in-house water treatment (softeners) systems and high pressure washers.

Protect your family and your drinking water. Ensure that your underground sprinklers and other potential cross connections are protected from your drinking water.

Ungrounded Receptacles – Suggestions & Tips #45

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ungrounded receptacles

Do you have ungrounded receptacles in your home? Without a ground there is potential fire / shock hazard.

In pre-1950’s homes, ungrounded receptacles (either two prong or three prong) are an indicator that knob & tube wiring may be present, however it should be noted that the next generation of wiring was also ungrounded. A newer home with grounded wiring does not necessarily mean a receptacle is grounded either. For personal safety, ungrounded receptacles should only be used with appliances / devices requiring same. Devices / appliances with three (3) prong plugs or polarized plugs should only be used in conjunction with appropriately wired & grounded three (3) prong receptacles and or ground fault (GFI) receptacles. GFI do not require a ground wire. Having a 3-prong receptacle is NOT an indicator that the receptacle is grounded and should be tested to confirm its presence.

Click here to learn more about ungrounded receptacles, polarized plugs & reverse polarity.

 

Ungrounded Receptacles, Polarized Plugs & Reverse Polarity

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Electrical plugs and sockets have changed significantly over the years. Here is our guide to older style plugs, where you might find them, and what safety advances the newer style of sockets and plugs offer to homeowners.

In homes with smaller electrical services, say, 60 amps or less, homes with knob & tube wiring, or homes that have been updated from these situations we often find that they may also have ungrounded receptacles in the home as well. This includes two (2) prong receptacles and three (3) prong receptacles. This can be a potentially dangerous situation.

Two (2) prong receptacles were not designed for a ground and the three (3) prong receptacles have often been used to replace former two (2) prong receptacles. The result is that the three (3) prong receptacle then becomes ungrounded as it was not originally designed or wired with a ground wire. The only way to have these receptacles grounded then is to run new wiring from the main distribution panel to the three (3) prong receptacle.

For personal safety, we recommend that these ungrounded receptacles only be used with appliances / devices requiring same, for example, a lamp having a two (2) prong plug.  Further, we recommend that all devices and / or appliances with three (3) prong plugs or polarized plugs be used only in conjunction with grounded three (3) prong receptacles and / or ground fault (GFI) receptacles. Do not remove grounding pins on three (3) plugs, as this is an electrical shock hazard.

You’ve probably noticed that plugs often have one prong that is wider that the other. This is done so that it can be properly aligned in a receptacle. The smaller narrower pin is for the “hot” black wire and the larger wider one is for the “neutral” white wire. This is very important when it comes to wiring new appliance plugs or receptacles as it assures that the current flow is proper through that device. Of particular note are certain devices or appliances that have circuitry, such as, coffee makers, alarm clocks, computers, etc. If the hot and neutral wires are reversed, damage can occur to these appliances. Do not “clip” the larger prong on a polarized plug to make it fit into a two (2) prong receptacle or a receptacle not designed for polarized plugs.

If you have any questions about electrical plugs and sockets, further professional advice from a licensed electrician is recommended.

Vaulted Ceilings (aka Sloped or Cathedral) – Suggestions & Tips #48

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vaulted_sloped_ceilings_knee_wall

Depending on how it was constructed, homes with sloped, cathedral or vaulted ceilings can have little, or no, attic spaces in places. This occurs as the interior ceiling is often parallel (or nearly parallel) with the roof plane. Until recently, most older storey-and-a-half homes (built in the 1700’s to the 1960’s) commonly had poorer insulation / ventilation between the ceiling and the roof. Largely, this occurs as the space for insulation and ventilation is governed solely by the rafter dimension in these older homes. As a result, they had less of an “air wash” present compared to homes with traditional attic spaces. As a result, the life span of the shingles, rafters and roof sheathing can be reduced, heightening concerns with moisture & mould / fungus too.

With a greater opportunity for heat loss, there was a greater chance of ice damming also. Often additional insulation and or ventilation when accompanied with proper vapour barriers can improve these issues, but is often not possible, turning homeowners to look at spray foam as a retrofit. Newer homes built with scissor trusses to create these ceilings improved on these issues, however venting at soffit areas and ghosting / soot staining concerns may occur.

Click here for more information on attics and their construction.

Ventilation & Indoor Air Quality – Suggestions & Tips #76

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ventilation

Ventilation is an important factor in indoor air quality, and it’s different from simply circulating the air in your house with a fan, filter or not. It requires fore thought if it is to be done effectively and mindful of energy costs.

Poor ventilation may not be noticed at first glance and your indoor air may seem just fine. The best time to check your indoor air quality is when you first enter a home, usually within the first five minutes before you become accustomed to it…that is, for those indoor air quality items that have an odour in the first place or are in sufficient quantities to even be noticed. Some indoor air contaminants can effect you but not be detected by the nose. Ventilation can also be helpful with condensation & humidity.

Exhausting stale indoor air seems easy enough. Adding fresh replacement air however can be the real trick. Opening a window for a short period of time can work but it’s not always effective or cost effective say in winter, and air circulation is also needed. Mechanically exhausting air with bathroom / kitchen fans may take several hours a day and cause combustion appliances to not operate as intended. Air exchangers work great and are quite cost effective in replacing stale indoor house air with fresh outdoor air e.g. heat recovery ventilator (HRV), energy recovery ventilator (ERV).

If you’re unsure about your indoor air quality and ventilation, consult a professional.

Venting Dangerous Combustion Gases – Suggestions & Tips #141

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venting dangerous combustion gases

The venting of dangerous combustion gases is critical. Done incorrectly, it can be fatal. So you might find it odd that we see disconnected vent pipes as often as we do, whether it be from a furnace, water heater or other fossil fuel burning appliance. Regardless, it can spell disaster!

In this case, the vent pipe had been leaking condensate for some time onto the cold air return ductwork below it. That means that dangerous by-products of combustion such as carbon monoxide, formaldehyde & nitrogen dioxide are also entering the home affecting the air that you breathe. In sufficient quantities it can be fatal. This vent pipe was not only disconnected outside of the furnace but inside the furnace cabinet as well.

Sometimes, the vent pipes are not disconnected but have their fittings not glued completely. This can allow lower levels of contaminants into your indoor air and may only make you feel sick. Regardless, its critical to ensure that your indoor air quality (IAQ) is the best it can be so you do not run the risk of illness or something much worse.

Have you seen the doctor lately? Houses need check-ups too…call us & get it inspected!

Venting Gas Cooktops / Ranges – Suggestions & Tips #154

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gas cooktop range

Do gas cooktops or gas ranges need to be vented to the exterior of the home? You might be surprised to learn that venting gas cooktops (for example, via a range hood) is not required in the province of Ontario and other jurisdictions. A vent is however recommended to remove excess heat, steam, grease, smoke and odours.

Cooktops, stovetops & ranges (sometimes called stoves) require have a minimum clearance to combustible materials regardless if they’re gas or electric. Further, Gas Code requires these gas appliances be installed to manufacturer’s specifications.

While gas cooktops / ranges can vent directly into a home, newer homes require a range hood vent as part of the home’s ventilation system. Even though these gas cooktops / ranges burn cleaner than they once did, we recommend venting moisture and harmful by-products of combustion to the exterior of the home in order to make your indoor quality air as healthy as possible. Of course, carbon monoxide (CO) detectors are a must with all fossil fuel (e.g. natural gas, propane, oil, wood, etc.) burning appliances in your home.

Thinking of buying a home with a gas cooktop / range or already own one and unsure what to do? Protect yourself…get it inspected!

Vermiculite Insulation

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What is vermiculite insulation? Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral that has the unusual property of expanding into worm-like accordion shaped pieces when heated. The expanded vermiculite is a lightweight, fire-resistant, absorbent, and odourless material. These properties allow vermiculite to be used to make numerous products, including insulation most commonly for attics. It can be purchased in various forms for various uses. Sizes of vermiculite products range from very fine particles to large coarse pieces nearly an inch long. Vermiculite that’s used in attics is a pour-in-place, gravel looking, insulation that’s usually light brown or gold in colour. Property owners, building maintenance personnel and those involved in real estate transaction process should be aware of the presence of vermiculite insulation and give careful consideration to its impact on the property and its occupants, now, in the past and in the future.

Vermiculite Insulation Sources

Vermiculite is used in a variety of products for both commercial and consumer use, including building materials. Processed raw ore was shipped to many plants in Canada for exfoliation or expanding where it was heated to about 1000°C causing it to expand into a lightweight granular looking material.

Almost all vermiculite insulation was sold under the trade name Zonolite. The loose fill insulation was used inside masonry block walls (the largest volume use), stove pipe and stack insulation, fire separations, cold rooms and in walls & attics (mostly of homes).

Asbestos Contamination – Prior to its closing in 1990, much of the world’s supply of vermiculite, according to the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), came from a mine near Libby, Montana owned by W.R. Grace. This mine had naturally occurring deposits of asbestos that contaminated the vermiculite. It is thought that most of their production contained at least trace amounts of asbestos fibre. Although vermiculite processed with a binder (such as concrete and plaster mixes, sprayed, fireproofing, etc.) is unlikely to ever release significant airborne asbestos, loose fill products do pose a risk, causing substantial asbestos exposure when disturbed. This asbestos-contaminated insulation from this mine was installed in many Canadian buildings, most of which were homes, but also in commercial, institutional and industrial buildings. Use in Canadian residential construction heightened with the CHIP Program between 1977 and 1984, the same program under which most Urea Formaldehyde Foam Insulation (UFFI) was installed.

How does asbestos cause health problems? Perhaps the most typical problem associated with asbestos comes from airborne particles that are inhaled. When asbestos is intact it is usually not a problem however when it is friable state, for example, readily crumbled, brittle, breaking down, deteriorating, damaged or disturbed) it can become airborne. As a result, persons may breathe in asbestos fibres. Continued exposure increases the amount of fibres that remain in the lung. Fibres embedded in lung tissue over time may result in lung diseases such as asbestosis, lung cancer, or mesothelioma. Smoking increases your risk of developing illness from asbestos exposure. Exposure to asbestos for prolonged periods or at high concentrations increases the risk of lung cancer and other respiratory diseases.

Health Canada states: “to be safe and in the absence of evidence to the contrary, it is reasonable to assume that if your building has older [pre-1990] vermiculite-based insulation, it may contain some amphibole asbestos”.

What to do if vermiculite insulation is present? According to the US EPA and ATSDR (Agency for Toxic Substances & Disease Registry) DO NOT DISTURB IT. Limit the number of trips made to your attic. Shortening the length of those trips can help limit your potential exposure.  Any disturbance has the potential to release asbestos fibres into the air.

  • Do not disturb vermiculite insulation.
  • Do not store boxes or other items in your attic if retrieving the material will disturb the insulation.
  • Do not allow children to play in open areas where vermiculite insulation is present.
  • If you plan to remodel or conduct renovations that would disturb the vermiculite, hire professionals trained and certified to handle asbestos to safely remove the material.
  • Do not attempt to remove vermiculite insulation yourself. Hire professionals trained and certified to safely remove the material.

It is important to note that some insurance companies may refuse to provide homeowner’s insurance on houses with vermiculite insulation or require, for example, additional / higher premiums, removal / modifications, and / or, further inspection(s) by experts to determine the presence of asbestos. Further professional advice from, for example, your homeowners’ insurance broker and an environmental specialist is recommended if you suspect the presence of this material in your home / building.

Vermiculite Insulation (VI) – Suggestions & Tips #16

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vermiculite insulation

Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral that has the unusual property of expanding into worm-like accordion shaped pieces when heated. The expanded vermiculite is a lightweight, fire-resistant, absorbent, and odourless material that has been used as insulation in attics and walls. Vermiculite insulation (VI) has also been associated with serious health and safety concerns regarding asbestos. Health Canada states:

“to be safe and in the absence of evidence to the contrary, it is reasonable to assume that if your building has older [pre-1990] vermiculite-based insulation, it may contain some amphibole asbestos”.

Further, there may be potential liabilities associated with homes containing VI as they may have a stigma attached to them that may affect:

  • the value of the home on resale; and or,
  • there may be costs associated with its removal / disposal and or ensuring the area containing VI is sealed off from living spaces and remains undisturbed in the event renovations are contemplated.

Contractors cannot place their workers in harms way, so asbestos abatement may be required before any work to a home can begin. Some insurance companies may refuse to provide insurance on houses with this type of insulation or require, for example, additional / higher premiums, modifications, and or further an inspections / testing. Read more about vermiculite insulation and what to do if present in your home.

Warranties & Guarantees – Suggestions & Tips #7

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warranties_&_guarantees

Does your house come with any warranties or guarantees?

Aside from the new home warranty in Ontario from Tarion, likely not. But you may be surprised to learn that there are various items within your home that may. So you’ll need to find out what comes with a warranty / guaranty, the extent of that coverage, the remaining time frame available to you and whether or not they can be transferred to you as the new homeowner (sometimes a transfer certificate needs to be completed).

Determine from the vendor what remaining warranties / guarantees are available to you regarding the materials and workmanship in your new home before you sign on the dotted line. Get all the documents required and make it part of your “Offer to Purchase”. There may be remaining warranties or guarantees available to you on such things as:

  • windows
  • doors
  • roofing
  • heating / cooling equipment
  • air cleaners
  • garage door openers
  • flooring
  • appliances
  • pools / hot tubs
  • whirlpools
  • garage door openers
  • electrical devices, thermostats
  • foundation wall crack repairs
  • renovation work

You’ll need to get this information tied up before closing, as it may be difficult to do anything after moving in if the paperwork was thrown out or not left behind for you. Do your homework upfront, be prepared and get it in writing.

Water Hammer – Suggestions & Tips #52

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water hammer

Water hammer (or hydrostatic / hydraulic shock) causes plumbing supply pipes to make a noisy banging sound when valves are turned off quickly. It can be quite loud, annoying…and ultimately cause the pipe to fail.

It occurs because there is momentum and pressure built up in the water lines. When the water supply to any fixture in the home is shut off, for example, a toilet, dishwasher, etc. it may occur. It may present itself as one loud bang, repeated banging or simply the rattling of the pipe. Over time this can damage the pipes / pipe connections and cause them to leak.  A vacuuming effect can also be created when water downstream attempts to continue flowing and may cause the pipe to collapse or implode.

Poorly supported pipes, certain plumbing fixtures or longer runs of pipes can contribute to the problem. Installing an arrester or noise suppression device closest to the faucet or fixture making the noise often fixes the problem.

If you ‘re not sure what all that banging noise is when you turn off the water, chances are it’s water hammer.

Water Heater Location, Furnace Too – Suggestions & Tips #130

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furnance & water heater location

Do you have a furnace or water heater located within a bathroom or bedroom? The water heater location and that of a furnace is very important. If you own a home or are about to buy one, there are some things you need to know.

It may seem obvious, perhaps even logical, that having a non-direct vent gas or oil-fired furnace / boiler or water heater located in a bedroom (e.g. in a closet / room only accessible from the bedroom) is a bad idea from a fire safety perspective, not to mention dangerous by-products of combustion such as Carbon Monoxide (CO).

Water heaters can not be installed in a bathroom, bedroom, or any other “room” where sleeping accommodation is provided, unless it’s a direct-vent type water heater. A power vented water heater may be installed in a “room” next to a bathroom or bedroom provided there is adequate combustion air provided to the “room” that is not supplied from the bathroom or bedroom. A natural draft water heater may be installed in a “room” that you gain access to through a door from a bathroom or bedroom so long as that “room” has the same or larger volume as the bathroom or bedroom.

If you’re not sure about whether your water heater or furnace is located properly, or someone has built something around it or enclosed it, consult a professional.

Water Penetration Into Homes – Suggestions & Tips #26

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water_penetration

Water penetration into your home or building can wreak havoc. If water makes its way through a masonry foundation wall it can ultimately deteriorate it, reducing its strength allowing movement in the wall itself. Generally, this can be a long and drawn out process.

Your basement can get wet for a number of reasons, for example:

Flooding in the basement can also occur due to a blocked sewer drain, a sewer back-up from the street and sump pump failure. Removing / reducing surface water by ensuring, proper exterior lot grading, and, that eavestroughs and downspouts work properly and divert water at least 6 feet away from the home for example, may assist with water / moisture problems. Ground water on the other hand may require significant work such as water proofing the basement walls, sump pit and sump pump, drainage tiles, etc.

Many basements are known to have leaked at one time or another during their life span. It usually occurs on an intermittent basis, perhaps after a rain or as snow thaws. It may start soon after a rain or after longer heavier periods. Often water leaks are not a structural concern and can be controlled quite economically.

Read more about keeping basements dry here.

Water Seeks Its Own Level – Suggestions & Tips #148

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Flashing at the base of walls is just asking for trouble.

Water seeks its own level…and its the lowest level. It also runs downhill especially on sloped roofs due to gravity. So you might find it surprising how many times we encounter homes while inspecting them that have windows or skylights at the base of roof slopes (see above pictures) as if to challenge the water by saying “I dare you to come inside”.

Of course, in winter any built-up snow resting against the walls of a warm home, chimney and its windows will cause a recurring freeze-thaw cycle, to occur. This makes water penetration via the window or under the roof shingles a formidable opponent. Even without windows present at the bottom of a roof slope, just having walls at their base means special precautions are needed, including flashings and ice & water shield.

Water is one of the biggies in the world of building science. We always want to prevent its migration into the home by planning a proper evacuation route for it, as water has to go somewhere eventually.

If you are concerned about water migration into a home or already have water leaks you’ll need to act fast to minimize the amount of damage it can cause, including the potential for mould growth.

Buying a home or making repairs to one? Protect yourself…get it inspected!

 

Weep Holes / Vent Holes – Suggestions & Tips #133

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weep holes
Weep holes, or vent holes, in your brickwork are a critical part of the home’s building envelope. They also present a number of concerns too.

In the lower course of brickwork every two feet or so, no mortar is applied  creating a gap or space between the bricks. These weep holes allow for ventilation and moisture to escape.

During our inspections of homes over the years, we often find that homeowners like to seal these holes up (see left picture) to prevent rodents and insects from getting in. Whether it’s bees or wasps trying to make a home inside them or the perfect highway for ants to travel through, weep holes are a great invitation to unwanted guests. And if you like reptiles (see picture at right) what better place for a clutch of snakes 🙂 Sealing up these vent holes traps moisture and promotes mould growth, spalling of bricks, and the deterioration of building materials.

If you need to protect these openings from mice…or snakes…you can buy plastic / metal weep inserts to install in them that prevent bug / critter entry while allowing for ventilation.

 

Weeping Tiles – Suggestions & Tips #23

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weeping_tile

Weeping tile is a perforated pipe used for drainage around foundation walls. Today, a 4” plastic pipe with small holes in it is used and is covered filter fabric over top of it to prevent soil and debris from getting in to it and clogging it. The pipe is laid at the base of the exterior foundation walls and covered with aggregate stone. Excess water in the soil above this can then flow into the weeping tile and drain into a storm sewer or a sump pump.

Older weeping tiles were made of clay. When weeping tiles are installed new, they can have a life span of about 50 years perhaps. Sometimes homes built before the 1950’s did not have weeping tiles installed. Drainage tiles can become clogged and not function properly if soil / silt enters then and creates a blockage.

Another style of drainage pipe was made from layers of wood fibre that was impregnated with bitumen / coal tar pitch and pressed together. It was known as Orangeburg or Bermico pipe. While it was first used in the mid-1800’s it didn’t take hold really until the 1940’s and continued in use up until the 1970’s. In Canada, from the 1950’s to the 1970’s it was referred to as no-corrode pipe, and that it did. While it too lasted about 50 years, it was subject deformation.

Downspouts connected to weeping tiles may allow unwanted debris to collect in your weeping tiles. Your basement can be wet because of failed weeping tiles or failure of a sump pump used to pump weeping tile water away. Signs of water / moisture penetration into the home along the bottom of the interior foundation wall or erosion / settling of soil along the exterior of home, may be indicators of failing / damaged weeping tiles. If you don’t have any weeping tiles, or they are present but damaged / failing, then water / moisture penetration into the home is possible given the right conditions.

Click here for related information on foundations and basements.

Wells and Cisterns

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Likely the number one issue for persons living the rural life is water supply. The quality of the water will depend on a number of factors including the type of well and the area you’re in.

In days gone by, a well was dug with water either removed by a bucket or hand pump. These wells may have been lined with stones, bricks, or, even wood. The area below the water table was often lined with loose gravel.

Drilled wells on the other hand are thought to be more hygienic in that water is collected after filtering through the soil. These wells are often no more than 50 feet in depth. If the well is deeper than this other concerns can arise including contamination of the water from sulphur or salt. Heavy rainfall can also contaminate the well water.

Tip: If possible, ask neighbours if their well runs dry. Keep the lid to the well on tight.

Cisterns on the other hand require the collection of water typically via the roof. The idea of a cistern is no different from using a holding tank, lake or river. Water quality can sometimes be more of an issue with cisterns.

Tip: Make sure that lids on cisterns are on tight as well.

How does the water get where it’s going? — There are two common ways to pump the water. Submersible pumps are lowered, for example, into the well shaft operating, and being cooled, while submersed. These pumps are usually more expensive however are less noisy and not subjected to freezing. Jet pumps on the other hand are typically installed within the home.

To ensure a more “even” supply of water in the house, as opposed to just running the pump when water is required, other components are connected to the pumping system. These include a tank, which not only holds water but also maintains the pressure with air, as well as, a pressure switch. This switch turns the pump on when the pressure becomes too low and turns off the pump when the maximum pressure is achieved. A setting of 20 psi (pounds per square inch) to 40 psi for the pressure switch is common.

Some common concerns — If a pump turns on and off frequently it may mean that the tank is waterlogged and can’t meet the demand. If the pump runs for a long time at start up it may mean there is a small leak in a rusty pipe or foot valve.

Is the water safe? — At a minimum, monthly testing should be carried out for fecal and bacteria counts. Your Municipality will have their own requirements. Often the local Board of Health will provide sample bottles for testing. Other water quality tests are also recommended. They can look for items such as, lead, chlorine, acidity, hardness, alkalinity, chloramines, dirt and rust. Water purification or treatment equipment can also reduce concerns with the water quality. Regardless, we recommend the use of a water purification system, as it is not common for water to continually or consistently meet safe potability requirements. Sometimes an additional pump is required to get the pressure higher so the water purification system can work more efficiently.

Wells and Cisterns – Suggestions & Tips #75

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wells and cisterns

Today, not many homeowners get there water supply this way. Private wells and cisterns are the way to go now for residents living in rural areas who rely on getting a potable drinking water source.

Cisterns come in various forms, from concrete tanks in the ground or under a garage floor to polyethylene below ground plastic cisterns. Some cisterns are even raised or elevated above the house. Some collect the water off their roof while others may truck in water from the local municipality. Wells on the other hand are either dug or drilled, the latter being the more common. Dug wells are more susceptible to contamination as they get their water from shallow aquifers.

Wells can become contaminated with bacteria (coliform, E. coli), nitrates, herbicides, or other chemicals. As a result, it is imperative that your test to ensure water potability routinely. Locate wells safe distance from contamination sources like septic systems. Keep contaminants like garbage, manure, petroleum products and pesticides away from the well as it may eventually get into your or your neighbour’s water supply.

Regardless, wells and cisterns can not be relied upon for continuously safe drinking water, so a purification system is best. Commonly, this includes at a minimum a particle filter and UV (ultraviolet) light for killing bacteria.