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Attic Spaces

July 3, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

Attic spaces perform several functions. It’s part of a home’s building envelope that protects you and your house from the elements through the use of insulation, ventilation and vapour barriers. Here’s are some common methods of creating this space:

TRADITIONAL STICK FRAMING — In constructing a roof this way, the most straightforward is a gable roof. Here, all roof rafters are cut to the same length. At the ridge, the proper angle is determined according to the pitch/slope of the roof. At the eaves/soffit area, the rafters are notched (called bird mouths) to sit on the exterior wall or rafter plate. Dormers and skylights can be added. Aside from the simple gable style are others such as a hip roof.

Ceiling joists are used to support the ceiling finish and act as ties between exterior walls. In some cases they may also be used as a tie for opposing rafters. In a pitched roof, the ceiling joists are nailed to the side of the rafter to prevent them from moving outward. The ceiling joists overlap over the centre load-bearing wall and are nailed together providing a continuous tie across between opposing rafters.

In a rafter-framed attic, where the pitch/slope of the roof is less than 4/12, (considered a low slope roof), the loads of the roof are carried by a beam(s) as opposed to a truss. Here, the roof rafters and the ceiling joists are designed to carry loads from the weight of the roof with snow etc. These loads are then carried to interior partitions by supports angled greater than 45°, knee walls, and ceiling joists. In doing so, the outward force is reduced on the roof and continuous ties between the lower ends of opposing rafters are not necessary.

Advantages — provides for more insulation at the edge of the ceiling.

Disadvantages — generally, they are more costly to construct than trusses.

ROOF TRUSSES — Today, builders often use prefabricated roof trusses. Although convenient and less time consuming than traditional framing, its main drawback over conventional roof trusses is that insulation space is minimized at the soffit areas.

a) Raised Heel Trusses — generally, this type of truss will resolve this problem. Although costs associated with a raised heel truss (manufacturing cost, extra siding, extra insulation,) may be greater, energy savings and the prevention of surface condensation (reducing the likelihood of ice damning) can justify the investment.

Advantages — provides for full insulation depth in all areas above the ceiling; a clear span; and, a continuous air-vapour barrier.

Disadvantages — more costly than conventional truss (e.g. more soffit siding will be required).

b) Dropped Chord Truss — this truss consists of a conventional truss with a second lower chord below it.
Advantages — may reduce truss uplift; provides full depth insulation up to the perimeter walls; allows for a clear ceiling span and continuous air-vapour barrier.

Disadvantages — requires taller studs; more siding is required; blocking required at the ceiling and wall junction for air-vapour barrier attachment.

c) Scissor Truss — the lower chords of the truss are sloped, rather than horizontal, allowing for the construction of a house with cathedral ceilings.  In doing so, there is not the need for a bearing beam or wall. These trusses can also be modified to accept more insulation when used in conjunction with a raised heel.

Advantages — often easier to get more insulation in than with other types of cathedral ceilings.

Disadvantages — may be more costly than other methods of construction; may be more difficult to insulate between chords if not using blown insulation.

d) Parallel Chord Trusses — These trusses consist of parallel chords of wood that are joined by an open web of wood, or steel braces, or a solid web of plywood. This type of truss permits high levels of insulation in cathedral ceilings.

Advantages — allows for large amounts of insulation in cathedral ceilings and also can provide ventilation without purlins. Can provide large, clear spans and allow for application of a continuous air-vapour barrier.

Disadvantages — higher cost than dimensional lumber. With a web of steel braces, heat losses due to thermal bridging can be high. Difficult to insulate between chords, but blown insulation may help with this problem.

CATHEDRAL CEILING FRAMING — One method of framing a cathedral ceiling is ceiling joists of 2×12 are used as rafters but if the two layers of R-11 batt insulation are desired, the entire rafter space will be filled with insulation. To allow for the proper ventilation space above the insulation, 2x2s are first nailed to the top of each rafter and parallel to them, to give at least 11/2 inches of air space above the insulation. Then a second layer of 2×2 (2x3s or 1x4s can also be used) are nailed to the rafters and perpendicular to them to allow for attachment of sheathing and roofing. This alternative assures a cold, ventilated roof with adequate ventilation parallel to each rafter space when tied to appropriate eaves and ridge ventilation, and still allows a cathedral ceiling design.

Advantages — In some areas, lower cost than parallel chord trusses.

Disadvantages — Limited to a maximum of R-40. Reduced insulation values at the ceiling joists.

TRUSS UPLIFT — In some houses with trusses, an upward movement of the ceiling occurs resulting in damage to interior finishes, particularly to interior ceiling and walls. This can result from: different moisture contents in the lower and upper wood chords of the truss; lumber expanding at different rates than others e.g. varying upper and lower chords; and, insulation covers lower cords resulting in differing expansion and moisture than that of non-insulated cords.

Proper grading and drying of lumber can minimize truss uplift. In addition, the builder assist by providing: adequate attic ventilation; don’t block the soffit vents with insulation; use drywall clips to connect the ceiling drywall to the partition-wall top plates; fasten the ceiling drywall far enough away from the partition wall such that the ceiling drywall can absorb some deflection; and, buy and keep trusses dry.

Filed Under: All, Attics, Information Bulletins Tagged With: attic, cathedral ceiling framing, framing, joists, rafters, truss uplift, trusses

Frost in Your Attic? – Suggestions & Tips #138

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

frost in attic

We’ve talked about mould in your attic, and one source of water for its growth can be frost or what is sometime referred to as hoar frost. If you have frost in your attic, take note.

This occurs when there high humidity / moisture levels in the attic freeze (e.g. from roof leaks, ice dams, plumbing) or condensation forms from warm moist air meeting cold attic surfaces that turn to frost (e.g. from heat loss from the home, made worse with poor attic insulation and ventilation).

Attic frost is not a good thing. Just think…as the ice / frost thaws and refreezes what damage will it cause to building materials. Then, when it eventually melts in the spring, where will all that water go and what damage will it cause…aside from its ability to grow mould. It’s important to make efforts to decrease the chances of frost from occurring in the first place. This frost build up can be made worse with insufficient insulation, poor ventilation and or no vapour barriers, or vapour barriers with are not sealed. This allows heat loss from the home. Sometimes, kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans aren’t vented to the exterior of the home.

Unsure what’s going on in your attic? Get it inspected!

Filed Under: All, Attics, Heating & Cooling, Insulation, Roof, Safety & Environmental, Suggestions & Tips Tagged With: attic, condensation, frost, heat loss, hoar frost, mold, mould

Heat Loss – Suggestions & Tips #134

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

heat loss

Winter is a great time of year to check your home for heat loss…and it may be easier than you think.

One common area to actually see heat loss during the wintertime is on your roof. If you see snow melting on your roof or icicles forming at the eaves despite the relentless freezing weather, chances are you’ve got it. That means heating $$$ are leaving the house and decreasing your chances of energy savings. It can also damage your home for example if ice damning occurs. The good news is that heat loss can often be controlled economically with additional insulation, ventilation or both. This assumes of course that any holes into the attic are sealed up.

Not sure if you have heat loss? Call us to find out.

 

Filed Under: All, Attics, Heating & Cooling, Insulation, Suggestions & Tips Tagged With: attic, heat loos, ice damming, insulation, ventilation

How Many Roof Vents Do You Need? – Suggestions & Tips #109

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

how many roof vents do you need

How many roof vents do you need? Is there such as thing as too many? You may be surprised to learn that more is not always better.

Attic venting is crucial. There is a tendency however to add more roof vents at the ridge to accomplish this. It seems intuitive that this might work, except that in order for good venting to occur you need convection to occur. So, to encourage this you need more venting lower down on the roof (and preferably at the soffit area) in order to draw in cooler air. This then forces the hotter attic area out the roof vents at the ridge area. With more venting at the ridge versus the soffit area, good venting may not occur.

There are some general rules of thumb for venting an attic space:

  • There should be one square foot (1 sq. ft.) of vent space for every 600 sq. ft. of attic area
  • Approximately 60% of your venting should be at the soffit area overhanging the house.

Without convection occurring you can trap air & inhibit good venting, which can promote condensation, frost in winter, wood rot and mould growth in your attic.

If you are thinking of installing turbine vents (sometimes called whirlybirds), we don’t recommend them as a general rule.

So…how is your attic venting?

Filed Under: All, Attics, Roof, Suggestions & Tips Tagged With: attic, condensation, hoar frost, mold, mould, roof vents, soffit vents, turbine vents, ventialtion

Mold in Your Attic? – Suggestions & Tips #137

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

mould in attic

When was the last time you went into your attic? Not many people go in them but it’s important for a number of reasons including to see if there is mold in your attic.

If homeowner‬s do venture into their attic, it can often be quite revealing. It may have kitchen or bathroom exhaust fans that vent into them and not to the exterior of the home. Their vent pipes might not have insulation or vapour barriers on them. The attic may have poor ‪‎ventilation at the soffit or ridge area, not enough insulation or poor vapour barriers. All of these can contribute to heat loss, and when the cold attic surfaces are met with that heat loss condensation occurs. This can cause water / moisture damage to the building materials and or create hoar frost from the condensation freezing. All of these can be perfect conditions for growing ‪‎mold‬, and we see it more often than you might think. If it is present, the task then becomes how can your control mould or abate it.

Mold needs two things to grow – some form of moisture (water leak, condensation, ice) as well as organic material (lumber, paper) to feed on. If you have mold, you indoor air quality (IAQ) may be at risk.

Are you unsure about what’s lurking in your attic or what the next steps might be? Get it inspected!

Filed Under: All, Attics, Insulation, Safety & Environmental, Suggestions & Tips Tagged With: attic, condensation, frost, insulation, mold, mould, roof, ventilation

Winter is Coming! – Suggestions & Tips #124

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

winter is coming

Winter is coming! So what better time to assess the insulation in your home. Not only can you save on energy costs, but it can make comfort levels in the home much nicer too.

The biggest heat loss in your home per square inch are holes that are in it. So after plugging / sealing them up, further insulation can do more than just maximize comfort levels and energy efficiencies. The next biggest heat loss is the attic. Adding insulation in the attic can improve the life spans of roof coverings (e.g. shingles), underlay material materials (e.g. plywood sheathing) and the structure itself (e.g. rafters, trusses) when accompanied with proper, and sufficient, ventilation and vapour barriers. Following the attic, the next biggest offender are unfinished basement walls. So don’t forget about adding insulation and vapour barriers on basement and crawlspace walls too.

Adding insulation can be a cost effective way to protecting you from the chilling effects of winter!

Filed Under: All, Attics, Foundations & Basements, Insulation, Main Living Spaces, Roof, Suggestions & Tips Tagged With: attic, energy efficiency, heat loss, insulation, vapour barrier

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