mold Archives - Grassroots® | The Inspection Specialists

Attic Hatch Doors – Suggestions & Tips #88

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

attic hatch doors

You may find it odd to be talking about attic hatch doors as most people rarely use them or even venture into their attic. As a result, many are unaware of the potential problems they can cause.

Attic hatch doors should be insulated and sealed so that there is no air infiltration to / from the house and attic. If this is not done, there is a potential for condensation to form, water / moisture damage and mould growth in the attic when, for example, in the winter warm house air migrates into the attic. As a result, the hatch door needs to close tightly within its opening, have the trim work around it well sealed (e.g. with weather stripping, caulking, etc.), and ensure that the hatch door itself has sufficient insulation, whether the door is on the ceiling (pictured left) or in a knee wall (pictured right).

If you’re not sure about your attic hatch door, get it inspected.

Buckets & Pools – Suggestions & Tips #81

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

buckets & pools

Buckets & pools can be great tools around the house…wait, what?!?! Here are some of the strangest things we’ve seen in attics…

That’s right, buckets & pools! They were blow-up pools so you could get them into the attic through the hatch door and probably 20-30 strategically placed buckets. If you’re not familiar with the technique, it’s a Great way to catch any of the rain water that leaks in…or you could fix the roof perhaps.

Of course other creative ways to collect water leaking into an attic is to cover the entire space with a layer of plastic. It not only traps the rain water from multiple leaks in the roof, but this added water in the attic and the plastic trapping moisture under it is a great recipe for damaging the wooden building materials (e.g. roof rafters, trusses, roof sheathing, wall ties / ceiling joists) wood damage, the ceiling itself not to mention the insulation. It also a great way to grow mould too!

In some attics we’ve seen the homes (bathroom / kitchen) exhaust fans connected to the furnace chimney which allows dangerous carbon monoxide to re-enter the home.

Our advice to you…unless you’re thinking of going swimming in your attic (tongue in cheek), get your new or resale home inspected before you buy it!

Cold Cellars – Suggestions & Tips #10

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

No matter what you call it, a cold cellar, fruit cellar or root cellar can be a great addition to your home. Trouble is, they often are not built properly or maintained correctly to act as one. When built & maintained properly, the cold cellar design will avoid that damp and musty feeling often associated with these spaces.

With cold cellars that are intended to be a “cold space”, you should ensure that:

the common interior building-cold cellar walls are insulated with proper vapour barriers
the door used between the cold cellar and the rest of the house is an insulated exterior grade access door
there is proper weather-stripping / seal between the building itself and the cold cellar door.
your cold cellar has air circulation in it at all times by having proper ventilation to the exterior / outside of the home (for example in winter).

The above will assist in reducing the chances of condensation build up and the potential for mould growth in cold cellars.

If on the other hand you don’t want a cold cellar and would prefer to turn it into a “warm space” (in other words, make it it part of the interior of the home) you should ensure that:

provide insulation and vapour barriers on the exterior walls of the cold cellar,
remove say ¾” off the bottom of the interior access door so there’s air circulation providing heat to reach this area, much like you would for an interior closet of a home.
If this space is large enough, you might consider taking the door completely off and treating it as a small interior room.

Built and designed properly, cold cellars should provide all the utility needed for cold storage.

Cold Houses – Suggestions & Tips #98

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

cold houses

In extreme cold humans get frostbite, hypothermia and windburn. Winter weather can make cold houses suffer as well.

Building materials expand and contract at differing rates depending on which parts are exposed to frigid temperatures, areas that have greater heat loss or where heated portions of the home are adjacent to areas which get less or no heat. As a result, you will likely hear differing sounds as these materials move. It may be a creaking sound, perhaps a bang and can occur at anytime, but often when there are temperature fluctuations in those materials.

Water pipes can burst & ice dams can form allowing water penetration into your home. Prepare for cold weather with regular maintenance & inspections. Reduce heat loss by sealing cracks in your home. Ensure your heating system works efficiently. Falling temperatures means your heating system use increases. If you have closed off areas in your home from heat sources, use area heaters where room temperatures drop below say 5C (41F). Be aware that when room temperatures plummet or spaces are unheated they are prone to condensation and mould growth.

Insulating your home can go along way to keeping the heat, if you have all the cracks in the house sealed up first. After holes in the house, the biggest heat losses will be the attic and basement walls.

Colds, Flu – Think IAQ Instead!

July 7, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

When winter comes we have a tendency to make sure we close up the windows and doors, put plastic wrap over the leaky windows, and make sure the weather stripping is in place to mention but a few. It’s seems to be a winter ritual for many Canadian homeowners. After all, we’ve been taught to conserve energy not to mention mind our pocket books. But along with winter comes a decrease in our indoor air quality whether we have a newer airtight home or a home we make more airtight for winter. It goes without saying that indoor air quality is always worse than outdoor air.

Experiencing any of these symptoms? — eye, nose, or, throat irritation, watery eyes, sneezing, cold/flu like symptoms, fever, digestive problems, skin rash, fatigue, wheezing, severe allergic reactions, upper respiratory discomfort, lethargy, nausea, headaches, insomnia, depression, diarrhoea, chest pains, asthma attacks, drowsiness, vomiting, dimmed vision, shortness of breath, dizziness, influenza and other infectious diseases. Ask yourself — Do these symptoms go away when you leave the house? Do I experience these symptoms only at home, or, at work or other indoor locations?

If you are experiencing any of these symptoms, you may want to look closer at your indoor air quality (IAQ). These symptoms may be an indication that there are concentrations of mould, yeast, carbon monoxide (CO), carbon dioxide (CO2), nitrogen dioxide (NO2) or, formaldehyde vapours (HCHO) in your home or office that you are sensitive to. If you think this applies to you consult us about testing for these serious and harmful indoor air pollutants.

Condensation & Humidity – Suggestions & Tips #12

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

Is it condensation & humidity or just water you’re seeing in your home?

When warm, moist air comes into contact with a surface that is too cold, moisture condenses. In winter, the water and frost that you see collecting on windows is a visible example of this. Condensation may also be collecting in your attic and inside the exterior walls. On the other hand, in summer if you have your basement windows open warm moist air from outdoors can condense on your cool basement foundation walls. Over time, if the air in your house is too humid, the result may be damage to the house structure, your possessions and possibly your health. Controlling humidity in your home is the best step to preventing mould problems.

Condensation can result from a number of areas, such as:

excessive moisture production
inadequate ventilation with outdoor air
cold surfaces
cool basement surfaces in the summer

You can try to control condensation by first reducing the level of moisture in the home and secondly keeping surfaces warm. All moist stale air in the home should be replaced with fresh air every 3 to 4 hours. Without the air exchange, your home can accumulate moisture, mould can become a problem and you can experience poor indoor air quality as a result.

While increased house air-tightness can improve energy efficiency, it may also lead to a greater need for mechanical ventilation. A sufficient air supply may also be needed to prevent combustion appliances from back drafting. People and pets produce moisture when they breathe or perspire. Even indoor plants produce moisture. We add water vapour to the indoor air through routine household activities such as cooking, showering, bathing, doing laundry, and dish washing. More moisture can enter your home from the surrounding soil through a basement or crawlspace.

We recommend that you measure the relative humidity (RH) in your home. CMHC (Canada Mortgage & Housing Corporation) suggest some rules of thumb to prevent window condensation during the heating season:

recommended indoor RH of 30% to 50%; and,
when it is below –10°C outdoors, that the indoor RH be 30%.

Uncontrolled condensation & humidity can lead to mould growth, poor indoor air quality and deterioration of building materials. If condensation or high humidity persist in your home, seek further professional advice.

Dehumidifier – Do you need one? – Suggestions & Tips #112

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

dehumidifier

Do you really need a dehumidifier? Well that depends on a number of things.

How air-tight is your home? Newer homes are often sealed better and can trap moisture & humidity more so than older homes. Does your home have any leaks from plumbing or where water gets in. How many occupants are in the home that are showering, cooking and doing laundry.

The best way to know if your humidity is too high is to is to measure what the relative humidity (Rh) levels are in your home. You can buy a hygrometer to accomplish this from you local hardware store and . Canada Housing and Mortgage Corporation (CMHC) recommends indoor RH at 30% to 45%, to a maximum of 50%. In summer, this can be a trick in a basement without the use of a dehumidifier.

Generally May is the time of year we should start to use a dehumidifier in our basement to reduce humidity levels. They work best in the warmer months up until about November. While central air conditioning removes humidity as well it doesn’t run continuously and is not triggered to work in the presence of humidity like a dehumidifier does to help to control indoor moisture. Newly built homes have considerable moisture and will likely benefit from running a dehumidifier regardless of the time of year. Of course, removing the source of moisture (e.g. from a leak) should be a priority.

Eavestrough Downspout Neglect – Suggestions & Tips #90

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

eavestrough downspout

Eavestrough downspout neglect can be a challenge when cold weather sets in and the leaves are falling. Keeping debris from getting in can feel like a full time job!

It’s well worth the effort however, as it can reduce the effects of ice damming, damage to eavestroughs themselves, as well as wood damage / rot to roof decks, fascia, soffit and siding. When eavestroughs overflow water can dump next to the foundation, cause damage to landscaped areas or allow water entry directly into your home. If water / moisture can enter your house, you run the risk of wood damage / rot, structural damage and mould growth.

There’s never a good time to inspect and clean your eavestroughs and downspouts, but there’s never a good time to have water problems in and around your house either 🙂

Frost in Your Attic? – Suggestions & Tips #138

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

We’ve talked about mould in your attic, and one source of water for its growth can be frost or what is sometime referred to as hoar frost. If you have frost in your attic, take note.

This occurs when there high humidity / moisture levels in the attic freeze (e.g. from roof leaks, ice dams, plumbing) or condensation forms from warm moist air meeting cold attic surfaces that turn to frost (e.g. from heat loss from the home, made worse with poor attic insulation and ventilation).

Attic frost is not a good thing. Just think…as the ice / frost thaws and refreezes what damage will it cause to building materials. Then, when it eventually melts in the spring, where will all that water go and what damage will it cause…aside from its ability to grow mould. It’s important to make efforts to decrease the chances of frost from occurring in the first place. This frost build up can be made worse with insufficient insulation, poor ventilation and or no vapour barriers, or vapour barriers with are not sealed. This allows heat loss from the home. Sometimes, kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans aren’t vented to the exterior of the home.

Unsure what’s going on in your attic? Get it inspected!

Furnace Filter Types & Ratings – Suggestions & Tips #166

February 19, 2016 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

furnace filter types & ratings

It’s safe to say that most homeowners don’t pay as much attention to their furnace and air conditioner as they should. Of course, to keep it working efficiently and minimize energy costs there are some simple things you can do, including changing / cleaning your furnace filter on a regular basis … during both the heating & cooling season.

To complicate matters, there are a tremendous number of different filters to choose from. Getting the wrong one could cause damage to your heating / cooling system or cause it to wear out prematurely. Yes, furnace filters can help improve your indoor air quality too but they are designed first and foremost to keep your furnace fan and its components clean.

Filter Ratings

While there are different rating systems in the marketplace for filters, the minimum efficiency reporting value (MERV) is the most common. Not surprisingly, the higher the MERV rating is the better the filter is at removing particulate from the air. But it’s more complicated than that.

While a lower MERV rated filter is less efficient in scrubbing the air clean, it lets more air to pass through it and making it easier for your furnace to operate. On the other hand, those filters with the higher MERV ratings allow less air flow and can cause your furnace to work harder and longer. Since those higher MERV rated filters trap more, they need to be checked more often (try monthly at first) and will likely need to be changed more frequently as they get covered with particulate faster and can clog, restricting air flow. To assist at improving air flow, the higher rated MERV filters are pleated which creates more surface area for air to flow … and to trap more particulate. So, the bottom line is you need to have the perfect mix of air flow and MERV rating for your needs and that of your furnace / air conditioner.

MERV	Common particulate trapped by filter
1–4	Pollen, dust mites, sanding dust, spray paint dust, textile / carpet fibers, cockroach debris
5–8	Mold, spores, dust mite debris, pet dander, hair spray, fabric protector, cement dust, pudding mix, powdered milk
9–12	Humidifier dust, lead dust, milled flour, auto emission particulates, Legionella, nebulizer droplets
13–16	Bacteria, droplet nuclei (sneeze), cooking oil, most tobacco smoke and insecticide dust, most face powder, most paint pigments
17–20	Virus, carbon dust, sea salt, smoke

NOTE: Check the manual for your furnace, or contact the manufacturer or a licensed heating contractor, to ascertain what size and maximum MERV rating your make / model of furnace can handle. If your furnace uses a custom sized filter, replacements will likely be more costly and harder to find.

Types of Filters

While there are a number of different types of filters on the market, here are a few of the more common filter types:

MERV 2-3		Disposable fiberglass panel – inexpensive filter made using spun fiberglass. It has a low MERV rating and traps only larger debris from clogging up your system and does little if anything to improve your indoor air quality.

MERV 5-8		Disposable pleated – this popular MERV rated filter is relatively inexpensive, made from polyester or cotton paper, can remove some small particles like mold, spores, mites and pet dander.

MERV 8-11		Disposable electrostatic – contains self-charging electrostatic cotton or paper fibers, is relatively inexpensive, typically has a higher MERV rating than its permanent version and is designed to attract & trap small particulate.

MERV 8-11		Permanent reusable electrostatic – similar to the disposable version but with a lower MERV typically, self-charging cotton fibers attract particulate, but has a removable washable filter that can be used for five years or so if cleaned / maintained properly at least every 90 days.

MERV 14-16		High-efficiency pleated box – these higher MERV filters are 4” to 5″ thick and made from pleated synthetic cotton. They are more costly than other disposable & non-permanent / washable filters, but designed to trap smaller particulate.

Cleaning / Replacing Furnace Filters

Ensure you turn off the power supply to the furnace before changing / cleaning your filter.

Vacuum inside the furnace cabinet by the filter opening and blower / fan as well as around the outside of the furnace before replacing the filter.

Vacuum washable / reusable filters before washing them.

Filters have an arrow on them indicating the direction of airflow. The arrow needs to face the furnace side towards the fan / blower compartment when replacing it to ensure its proper operation.

Once you have your filter replaced turn the power supply to your furnace back on.

Check your filter monthly

Clean your reusable / washable filter every 90 days or as needed.

Replace your disposable filter every 90 days or as needed.

NOTE: Do not clean or change your furnace filter unless you are completely familiar with your furnace and comfortable in doing so, otherwise contact a licensed heating contractor for assistance.

Ghosting & Soot Staining – Suggestions & Tips #11

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

What? No we’re not talking about haunted houses or chimney cleaning. Although one might think this is about a paranormal event, ghosting & soot staining relates to a phenomenon of another kind!

It refers to streak-like markings (often referred to as ghosting) that can occur at interior stud locations on outside walls or where rafters / trusses are on vaulted / sloped ceilings. These streak-like markings may be as a result of soot (carbon), mould or dirt that collects there, as these locations are cooler (and “wetter”) than the adjacent insulated cavities. Because they are cooler, micro-condensation forms on the cold surface when heat reaches those locations. The resulting thermal telegraphing (or ghosting) occurs when particulate in the air such as dirt or soot (carbon) are deposited on those cooler surface locations.

Soot (carbon) staining can also occur along the perimeter of carpeted floors, in part because there is not a good air seal between the wall-floor juncture. Not all staining however may be caused by soot, as dust or dirt causes most marks on carpets and will wash out quite easily. Black carbon soot stains on the other hand are often permanent. Because the staining is dark by nature it’s most evident on light coloured carpets.

Ghosting or staining caused by carbon soot can come from inside or outside the house. Sources can include:

candles
automobile / airplane exhaust
leaking combustion from fossil fuel appliances e.g. gas furnace, gas hot water heater, gas fireplace.

Carpets can act as filters for airborne particles. For example, if a door to a room is usually kept closed, pressure from a heat supply register in the room can force air underneath the door and trap particles in carpet fibres.

If you think you are experiencing ghosting or soot (carbon) staining, professional advice from an indoor air quality expert or licensed heating contractor to ascertain there is no spillage from gas appliances or sources detrimental to your health and safety is recommended.

How Many Roof Vents Do You Need? – Suggestions & Tips #109

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

how many roof vents do you need

How many roof vents do you need? Is there such as thing as too many? You may be surprised to learn that more is not always better.

Attic venting is crucial. There is a tendency however to add more roof vents at the ridge to accomplish this. It seems intuitive that this might work, except that in order for good venting to occur you need convection to occur. So, to encourage this you need more venting lower down on the roof (and preferably at the soffit area) in order to draw in cooler air. This then forces the hotter attic area out the roof vents at the ridge area. With more venting at the ridge versus the soffit area, good venting may not occur.

There are some general rules of thumb for venting an attic space:

There should be one square foot (1 sq. ft.) of vent space for every 600 sq. ft. of attic area
Approximately 60% of your venting should be at the soffit area overhanging the house.

Without convection occurring you can trap air & inhibit good venting, which can promote condensation, frost in winter, wood rot and mould growth in your attic.

If you are thinking of installing turbine vents (sometimes called whirlybirds), we don’t recommend them as a general rule.

So…how is your attic venting?

Humidifier Maintenance – Suggestions & Tips #97

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

humidifier maintenance

Just like you service your furnace and air conditioner, humidifier maintenance should be part of your regular routine. Not carrying out this work can lead to problems down the road.

Humidifiers can save energy costs & increase comfort levels. Increased humidity can help with asthma/allergies. Dirty humidifiers on the other hand can worsen health symptoms & be a breeding ground for bacteria & mould. Here are some maintenance tips:

For drum humidifiers – clean the distribution tray & filter frame with warm slightly soapy water & replace the evaporator pad.
For bypass flow-through models – unevaporated water drains from the bottom of the unit to eliminate mineral build-up, making maintenance easier. Check the drain hose for blockages. Clean/install a new filter annually & rinse the removable tray every 6 months to prevent bacteria buildup.
Check & repair humidifiers for any leaks.
Close up / shut down units after use in the winter. Turn off the water supply to the unit, turn back humidistat and or turn off power supply.

With your humidifier maintenance completed, monitor the humidity levels in your home with a hygrometer (available from your local hardware store).

Mold in Your Attic? – Suggestions & Tips #137

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

When was the last time you went into your attic? Not many people go in them but it’s important for a number of reasons including to see if there is mold in your attic.

If homeowner‬s do venture into their attic, it can often be quite revealing. It may have kitchen or bathroom exhaust fans that vent into them and not to the exterior of the home. Their vent pipes might not have insulation or vapour barriers on them. The attic may have poor ‪‎ventilation at the soffit or ridge area, not enough insulation or poor vapour barriers. All of these can contribute to heat loss, and when the cold attic surfaces are met with that heat loss condensation occurs. This can cause water / moisture damage to the building materials and or create hoar frost from the condensation freezing. All of these can be perfect conditions for growing ‪‎mold‬, and we see it more often than you might think. If it is present, the task then becomes how can your control mould or abate it.

Mold needs two things to grow – some form of moisture (water leak, condensation, ice) as well as organic material (lumber, paper) to feed on. If you have mold, you indoor air quality (IAQ) may be at risk.

Are you unsure about what’s lurking in your attic or what the next steps might be? Get it inspected!

Mould Colours – Suggestions & Tips #121

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

mould colours

Mould colours? That’s right, mould comes in pretty much every colour of the rainbow…but it’s no pot of gold! No matter what the mould colour is, you don’t want it in your home. Depending on the quantity of mould in your home, it can be a homeowner cleanup. Larger areas will require professional remediation / abatement.

While we often hear of “black mold” (or Stachybotrys) as being the toxic mould, however many other coloured moulds are toxic as well. In fact, mould can get their colour from what they feed upon. Mould needs two things to live: some form of water, moisture, high humidity, condensation as well as organic material to feed on like paper, wood, dirt.

Mould can have severe health & safety issues related to it and because their spores are microscopic you can’t always seem them, but you may be reacting to them. These symptoms can mimic those of a cold / flu. In more severe cases you may have, for example, an allergic reaction or upper respiratory issues.

If you have concerns about mould, speak with a professional regarding what next steps might make sense. Click here for information about Grassroots® indoor air quality and mould testing services.

Mould, Mildew and Fungus

July 8, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

Ever wonder why you’re sneezing, or coughing. How about a runny nose, sore throat, or upper respiratory discomfort. Mould, yeast and fungus can cause these allergic reactions. Severely allergic people like asthmatics can have trouble breathing. Other effects can include hay fever, headaches, depression, fatigue, dizziness, lethargy, fever, digestive problems, chronic nasal drip and influenza. If you are sensitive to moulds avoid products that are made from or with the use of fungi, such as, yoghurt, baked goods (yeast), mushrooms, cheese, smoked meats, and, leftovers.

Why should you be concerned?

85% of all homes have mould.
10% to 35% of all homes have serious mould contamination.
Prolonged exposure can cause anyone to develop an allergy.

Moulds are “growths” that are formed on organic materials by several types of fungi. There are various types of mould and they come in a variety of colours including black, red, green, blue and white. Spores may be released into the indoor air by the mould, and once airborne the spores can remain there for long periods of time. Exposure to extended high humidity or water damage can awaken dormant mould spores.

Mould growth occurs in areas of the home that are excessively moist, have high humidity levels, low levels of light and poor ventilation/circulation. In the summer, growth is usually much more rapid than in winter, due to the increase in heat and humidity.

Relative humidity (Rh) can often be controlled with humidifiers and dehumidifiers. Cooking, showers, plants, drying laundry indoors, all contribute to increased Rh. Newer homes generally are more air tight, trapping water and moisture. In your attic, it could come from bathroom or kitchen fans not properly vented outside or not sealed to the ceiling finish. Access doors to the attic may not be sealed properly. There may be insufficient insulation and/or vapour barrier for recessed ceiling light fixtures. Other areas include dryers not vented outside, a bare dirt crawl space, a damp or wet basement, or, passageways from the basement to the attic through unsealed spots along the rim joists.

Testing for mould on surfaces, mould analysis, and, air-borne mould testing is available from Grassroots®. Avoiding mould mildew and fungus contamination is important for your health.

Tip: Don’t open basement windows in the summer. The warm outside air when it meets the cooler basement air can cause condensation to form on basement walls.

Student Housing & Your Child’s Safety – Suggestions & Tips #122

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

college students returning to school

Do you have college or university students heading off or returning to school? Now is the time to talk safety around the house and to be on the look out for the tell tale signs of problems with their student housing living accommodations.

If you’ve got kids living in college or university off-campus rental units, wise parents can help their children determine if their accommodations are safe. Here are just a few things to look out for:

ensure sufficient there are working smoke alarms & carbon monoxide detectors – it’s the law. We recommend at least one of each per level and per bedroom. Are they interconnected with other tenant’s rooms or adjacent building units so they will “go off” if a fire starts in their rooms / units?
call the local Municipality to find out if the property is zoned correctly for its intended use e.g. as a rental property, rooming house, multi-tenant use
aside from tenants insurance, obtain a Certificate of Insurance from the landlord that sufficient insurance coverage is in place for its use.
contact the local Fire Department / Fire Marshall to ensure the property has been inspected recently and that there are no outstanding work orders.
ensure electrical wiring is safe e.g. lights don’t flicker; cover plates are present on receptacles / switches; electrical panel, fuses / breakers are in good working order; no exposed wiring or unsecured receptacles / switches are present; and, that proper ground fault / arc fault protection is present.
ascertain gas appliances have been properly maintained and are safe for operation e.g. the heating system (furnace); cook top / oven / stove; barbeque; and, fireplace .
is the wood burning fireplace or wood stove safe to use? Has it been cleaned / maintained properly? Is the insurance company aware of their presence?
is there a hot tub or pool available for use and if so what safety measures are in place regarding them.
is there any water / moisture penetration into the building?
are decks / balconies supported properly and secured properly to prevent collapse?
are handrails and guardrails well secured and an appropriate height, with balusters / spindles spaced properly?
are there environmental concerns such as mould, asbestos, lead, etc.?

Not sure what you should be looking for with your children’s student housing? Need help? Get your son’s / daughter’s house, apartment or residence inspected BEFORE they move in, and better yet before they sign the lease!

We can help to make your child’s time away at school safer … contact us!

The Air You Breathe – Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) Suggestions & Tips #4

July 9, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

How prepared are you? How prepared do you need to be?

When it’s cold outside, it means the windows & doors at your home or place of work are shut to keep the heat in . . . and that means your indoor air quality (IAQ) worsens as well.

The air we breathe outside is normally far better than the air trapped indoors which can contain a variety of pollutants both chemical and biological, such as:

carbon monoxide (CO)
formaldehyde (HCHO)
mould
dust mites

There are also a number of health related issues associated with IAQ. Some mimic common cold & flu symptoms making their recognition difficult. These issues are only heightened for the medically fragile, persons with upper respiratory issues and environmentally sensitive individuals. Click here to learn more about your indoor air quality.

Water Seeks Its Own Level – Suggestions & Tips #148

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

Flashing at the base of walls is just asking for trouble.

Water seeks its own level…and its the lowest level. It also runs downhill especially on sloped roofs due to gravity. So you might find it surprising how many times we encounter homes while inspecting them that have windows or skylights at the base of roof slopes (see above pictures) as if to challenge the water by saying “I dare you to come inside”.

Of course, in winter any built-up snow resting against the walls of a warm home, chimney and its windows will cause a recurring freeze-thaw cycle, to occur. This makes water penetration via the window or under the roof shingles a formidable opponent. Even without windows present at the bottom of a roof slope, just having walls at their base means special precautions are needed, including flashings and ice & water shield.

Water is one of the biggies in the world of building science. We always want to prevent its migration into the home by planning a proper evacuation route for it, as water has to go somewhere eventually.

If you are concerned about water migration into a home or already have water leaks you’ll need to act fast to minimize the amount of damage it can cause, including the potential for mould growth.

Buying a home or making repairs to one? Protect yourself…get it inspected!

Whole House Humidifier – Suggestions & Tips #93

July 10, 2015 by Grassroots Leave a Comment

whole house humidifier

On the surface, a whole house humidifier might seem like a good thing however it depends on a number of factors you will need to know for your comfort and your home’s well-being. Whether its a drum (pictured at the left), by-pass flow through (pictured at the right) or steam models.

In a newly built home, it may not have a whole house humidifier because the home is built tighter than an older home, retaining moisture from showers and cooking. Adding more humidity to to an air-tight home could cause significant damage through high humidity and the promotion of mould growth. In older, drafty homes, cold dry air can leak in creating the need for more humidity.

Maintaining the right humidity level in a home is a balancing act. Too little can dry your skin, make you uncomfortable or cause hardwood flooring to shrink. Too much on the other hand causes condensation & mould to form or wood / damage rot.

In the winter heating season, the relative humidity in your home should not exceed 45%, while 30% or lower may be needed when colder outside to prevent condensation according to Canada Mortgage & Housing (CMHC). So, add humidity where you need it first, not your entire house. Consider room humidifiers first. Most importantly, monitor the humidity in your home with a hygrometer from your local hardware store.

Attic Hatch Doors – Suggestions & Tips #88

Buckets & Pools – Suggestions & Tips #81

Cold Cellars – Suggestions & Tips #10

Cold Houses – Suggestions & Tips #98

Colds, Flu – Think IAQ Instead!

Condensation & Humidity – Suggestions & Tips #12

Dehumidifier – Do you need one? – Suggestions & Tips #112

Eavestrough Downspout Neglect – Suggestions & Tips #90

Frost in Your Attic? – Suggestions & Tips #138